Declan52

Some roof lights going cheap if anyone needs them. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Keylite-Centre-Pivot-Roof-Window-1140mm-X-1180mm/p/728134

Think that's a different guy.

There is a guy on their Twitter page called Richard Phillips who is an expert, and seems to be answering lots of questions. Not sure if he works for them or not or maybe is he a member here by any chance.

Very very nice indeed. Sit back and enjoy it now.

Is the point of ufh that you set up the times to suit how you live and then just forget about it. That's how I work mine. You already have a system that I presume works so why do you need another costly unit to learn how long your floor takes to heat up. I have a similar unit at home called my wife. She knows how long it takes for heat to come through and feel it on her feet so my times are set by that and the morning alarm to waken the kids. To be fair one of the heat learning type units would have been much much cheaper than her.

Yeah plenty of times. A sharp Stanley knife and plenty of patience is all you need.

In order to help the guys who know a bit about these things your going to have to give a little more detail. What make and model for a start. Does it do the fault when it's doing a specific operation or all the time.

They are pretty responsive on Twitter and have posted lots about various things recently.

It scares the brown stuff out off you when you hear that snap sound. At least with 400 centres you get wedged and end up with a few cuts. At 600 centres you can end up with some serious injuries.

You can get cool white, blue effect, or warm white, more yellow.

What is it holding back?? If it is a main road or a pathway then I think it needs to have had the proper calculations done and signed of by a SE. Put up some pics of you have them. It could be that there is no drainage behind the wall and the rain and groundwater is pushing the wall out as it's no where to go.

You could use a road saw and cut it into sections so you aren't going in with the rock hammer close to there house.

So your looking to do a self build and from what it seems from your post you wanted to go for a timber frame but as your architect likes block your going to go that way. It's your money paying for the build so go and do your research and tell him that to draw up the plans to suit your choice. If it's timber then fine. Most timber frame companies will offer you certain packages with a u value to suit your budget and a max target for airtightness that they guarantee they will hit.

Weather hasn't been nice this past week for building blocks.

Have you had any luck setting up a program??

Think its just the ones that sell cars.

Same saying goes for car sales men.

Pump it out into drums and give it away to family or friends.

Nothing wrong with the technology just the way it had been setup. Suspect it will be the same for @Christine Walker. Just depends on the plumber, can be spot what is wrong. That's why I was looking some pics so the collective could have a gander and give her some ammo to hit him with.

Yeah take no shit from him. It's not working as it's meant to so get him back. I had issues with my tank loosing heat due to the pipework not being lagged. It really did make a difference when I done them.

It's a massive expense to clean up an oil spill. Not something you would wish in your worst enemy. You can dig it all out down to whatever depth the oil has settled to. Very expensive as it's contaminated spoil so ain't cheap to dispose. The oil will track along underground services so goes much further than you would believe. You can also put standpipes in and flush the ground water and clean that. Ain't cheap either. Have seen houses that had the floors dug out down as far as they could go and then sealed up, back filled and concreted again. But if the oil has got into the blocks and soaked in then you still can smell it. Is heart breaking when you go to a house like this and see the devastation that a spill can cause. The main reason oil was not an option for my heating in the new house.

Think you might need to put up a few photos of the tank and all the bits coming out from it too see if some of the plumbers here can spot something. You shouldn't be emptying a 500l tank that quick. Sounds like it's losing heat and the tank is cooling down and keeping the stove on most of the day. What do you mean by when you turn the rads on the ufh temp dropped by 10 degrees. There is nothing wrong with the stove I hope. It will just be heating the water up to your setpoint like it would if you where using oil or gas. Something is draining your hot water from the tank.

On your blending valve where your ufh manifolds are what temp is it set to??

Couldn't afford to run mine all day either. It will take a while trying to find a program that works but @Christine Walkerwill get there. Get that installer back asap and get him to show you the full instructions on how you work it.

The only detail I can find is this. https://www.klover.it/en/products/inserts/pellet/pelletfireplace18 It says there is a weekly programme so have a look through your manual and see how you set it to come on at the times it suits you. Once you have a weekly programme sorted then you need to set your stats to suit that. So have your stove fire up at 6am and at the same time your morning setting on your stats is set to 20/21 (what ever you want the room temp to be). Let it draw heat and charge up the floor for 1/2hrs and then have your stat turn off and stop calling for heat. For example in the morning your kitchen will sitting at 19. At 6am your stove fires up, and your kitchen stat changes to 20. It will draw heat for 90 mins until it gets to 20 and then turn off. The rest of the day you set the stat to not call for heat by setting the temp to not call for heat unless it falls below 18. Over the rest of the day unless it's really cold outside the heat you put into the floor should be enough to keep the room warm at a steady 18/19. Then the process just repeats each day.