redtop

We tied back to the timber frame but extended the bottom so the windows sat on solid wood Helps with thermal bridging but is a pain to get airtight. I would ply box if doing it again

Our house is all flat roof. Joists level to top of steel, osb across both steel and joists and fastened to both. Vapour barrier, 120mm PIR for flat roofs (high compression and paper backed) and epdm on top. Passed building regs / sap no problem. Then we battoned underneath joists to create a level platform for the plasterboard

2.4m set 600m above ground gets u 3m, then a bit of tarp along the bottom. Cost nothing. Then don't budge on other stuff that might cost u time and money

Same as mine except I used the smartply for vcl and OSB racking. 100mm rockwool and 140mm pavatherm

Yeah worth doing if not sure. Don't want to be responsible for some site worker getting a shock!also they can then test the earth rod properly to make sure its safe

Yes site was steep, muddy and hence why it took so long. House not going anywhere though :_) oh and house is lifted of ground on steel stilts, that puts a side load on foundation pile which increased the requirement.. One side of house is 12 inches off the ground. 6m to other side of the house it is 2.5m off the ground. Thats how steep it is

140mm woodfibre outside of timber frame, 150mm rockwool between the studs and then racking osb on inside. The propassive stuff for the airtight layer. Service void and plasterboard. Oh an vapour wrap on external woodfibre, then will have battons and ceder cladding

yes, new installation so all circuits are rcbo protected

Top plan, and I only need to worry about being 50mm deep if I am outside of the safe zones? FYI I am running 1st fix, sparky hss given me instructions but just checking a couple of bits. He will then come and check before we pb.

want to use rockwool acoustic slab to help soundproof the internal timber stud walls. Does this mean the cables dropping to light switches and sockets will need derating. Must be a really common issue, how don you get round it?

Brill, will take a look. Thanks everyone

Just about to start 1st fix. Going to run cat 5 around the house, terminating in a Ethernet front plate when I get onto 2nd fix. Do these plates fit onto a standard 35mm metal back box, the ones you use for light switches and single sockets? Taaa

Oh, a new tool for me to look at ? any good?

Ime doing it this way, one manifold, and one big benefit for me is I can run each pipe as I get round to that part of the build. Makes sense if self building and living in it as we go!

Engineered wood boards

Laid a 22mm chipboard floating floor, sits on 25mm PIR. Used 25mm battons at door entrances and now find the floor rises a few mmm at the threshold. Short of cutting and lifting the offending area, could I sand /plain the board down to remove the Hump. Its the 22m p5 stuff

we havnt moved in yet, but in the current / previous houses we always sleep with the bedroom window open, winter and summer as we like a cold breeze when sleeping and cant ever remember turning a radiator on in any bedroom in any house we have lived in.

if I was doing it again I would remove fancy angles (we have a hall that has 2 walls coming in at odd angles). Just makes everything from the floor, to the walls, to the roof harder and more time consuming. Also introduces a lot of waste material which is odd shaped and cant be reused. I would also try to make all the lengths / heights work so we could use full boards (2.4M, 1.2M, 0.6M) saves loads of waste and time.

we used propassive OSB on the inside which removes one layer. Also used the solid woodfibre boards on the outside (140mm) which contributes (how much I don't know...) to the wall stiffness, gives it mass as well as insulation, not meant to need to wrap that with vapour control layer but we did. Only issue so far, for a self builder, is the woodfibre boards are bloody heavy to handle on your own at height on the upper walls! Ive had to resort to shoving them out through the window openings and onto the scaffolding. No way in a million years I could get up ladders with them. Hoist would work but that's a lot of time. So woodfibre:- no problems with skin irritation, bit messy to cut cos it clogs the saw loads and very heavy to lug around on your own. prob takes longer to wrap house with it than it took to build the timber frame.

agree that would be really difficult. we have gone with a standard mortice lock due to being in the middle of our own 2 acre site so the main security are the access gates, not the front door. Also really really crap access helps deter thieves lol

cant see why this is an issue at all TBH. We have just received our front door from howdans and they come as standard with no lock, or hole for the lock (we also ordered the lock, hinge, etc we wanted). Frame, door and locks will be fitted and all's good. Cant ever see how BC would know or care if the door was supplied without the lock pre-fitted. Lock / hinges have the relevant security marks, so alls good

just did this a few days ago, dead easy. got an instant quote, paid for and booked in. wish other services were so simple!

thanks, feels like ime giving up a bit, but we at that stage where we just don't have the luxury of doing anything but the quickest and cheapest way to get hot water and some form of heating, then we can hunker down and spend a couple of 3 months recovering funds before getting on with the inside stuff

So we have been thinking about the option for months. We have ended up with a building that is well insulated, will be reasonably airtight but not near passive. We have had to ditch MVHR due to too many issues with steels in the way. We have ended up skint due to rogue builder and I have had to fully build the house myself from the ground floor timber walls up. We have now taken the very unpopular decision to go with a gas combi-boiler. Our thinking is as follows:- We cant have PV on site due to planning restrictions We are mega cash poor at the moment We have to move in end of Sep 2 of us in house, 2 bathrooms, rarely will there be more than 1 shower on at a time Limited space for hot water tank, oh and we are skint btw ? So we can get a gas connection to the house for £320 (and that's them doing all trench work!), we can get a decent combi boiler for a grand or less. Any (gas safe) plumber can fit a gas combi boiler, simples and the amount of plumbing we need the skilled plumber to do v me is low. That will also free up plenty of spare power for hot tub, car charger (if we get one), etc. We can run UFH downstairs and wet rads upstairs. No mains pressure shower, but then that uses more water and that costs. We could even use a elec shower downstairs, would only be used occasionally so cost nada to run, and I have a 10.5kw one sitting in my 'box of bits'. so FOC really. Any other option, no matter how hard we look, would take years to get a decent payback. On our current bungalow (gas combi boiler, cooker, rest elec) we pay £900 fixed all in for gas and elec. We will get a similar deal for new build. Even with all the energy savings gadgets, if we halved the energy bill it would be years to get a decent payback. But for us, if we cant get a new gas connection for 320 quid that makes it the simplest and cheapest option.

got the tape, 3/4"?