redtop

I don't think it does. We have a warm roof and have osb fixed to roof joists, then plastic sheet (well a posh vapour proof layer) then insulation which is glued to the sheet, and then the waterproof bit. So condensation forms in the insulation whilst the OSB stays warm and dry.

Sorry disagree with this. Younrisk getting an answer that requires you to spend money you don't have, and if facing bankruptcy I would completely avoid this. Move in and be dammed, be carefull obviously and if someone does moan you will be months down the line before anything happens. They have other things to worry about.

Only comment is you have the OSB in the middle of the insulation, surely this would be a magnet fir damp to eventually rot the boards. Or am I being daft again....

I think it would be surprising if we looked at the number of times cable / Plugs get hot when running constant high loads. Just takes a loose connection in the plug and a Fire can easily start. Poor buggers in that new build fire. I wouldnt run any decent load unless I was physically there

We have this and have been in a year,BCO sign off due next month. We had no kitchen, internal walls, plasterboard etc never mind no smoke alarms lol. No issues other than it was bloody cold last winter!

We used akito alarms. Heat and monoxide in kitchen and boiler room, Heat and smoke everywhere else. Plus a link to spinkler system plus s test button which tests the whole installation. Works well, but we did need to un 3core and earth as you have the Interconnect signal in addition to pos and neg. Easy to do during build, Nightmare after but think they also do a wifi connected system which may be less disruptive

We had exactly this. My plan was geotec membrame, top soil, seed. However that got delayed and after a single spring / summer plants have completely taken over and it hasn't moved a jot and neither are we getting any soil washed away. So if you can leave it a bit then do and see what nature does. Might save a few quid and effort

Just finishing a timber house new build in a wood in Looe cornwall, feel free to come round. Top half is clad in ceder bottom in that burnt Japanese thing you mentioned ? sourced from bond timber btw. Oh and aluminium windows as well

Our cladding boards are 20mm too and typically 3m long. Given it isn't structural and they are only holding the cladding up I cant see any benefit in using anything other than the blur Roofing battons

Got vertical cladding on complete house, that's a lot of cladding! We used roof battons, the blue ones. 25 x 50mm. Batton and counterbatton then fit cladding. Cant see any reason to use anything else, the price for the Roofing battons are enough without going bigger!

We did one with gabion baskets. Very easy to do, but time consuming. We filled ours with quarry waste, we managed to get enough decent stone from the bags to do the facing and the rest went in the middle/ back. Worked out very cheap at 20quid a tonne. 1 bag did about 1 basket (1 cubic metre). Ish as we also threw in old blocks / bricks we found lying about. Got the angle wrong on the back row so they are leaning back more than 15 degrees, but at least its wrong in the right way ?

Well if I knew you had money to burn ? agree the ones I listed are crap, but I was suprised they drilled well for a half dozen holes then its knackered. And they seemed to come with a shed load of 3 to 5mm sizes which were fine as pilot holes.

Nooo, too much money for something that will blunt anyway. Go for these and chuck em when blunt. Erbauer Straight Shank HSS Drill Bit Trade Pack 150 Pieces | Drill Bit Sets | Screwfix.com

End is painted black so goto be good! Pre drill makes em perfic. I bought a big multi pack of cheap drill bits from screwfix or toolstation, all different sizes don't last that long but dead cheap and went through steel a fair few times before going blunt. Something like a pack of 100 for not much.

Get the risky stuff done first. Foundations obviously but services too. Then you have a budget to work to with an ability to manage costs. We stick built ours on site ourselves and saved a lot, also misjudged the time and cost to get from watertight to a, mainly, finished house.

We did exactly this and used loads of them. Advice is to pre drill with a 3 or 4 mm bit as it helps these go in really easy

Yes if there was a wall below supporting the joists I would sense them breathing a sigh of relief ?

There will be others who know more than me. But I would be worried about the integrity of the joists tbh and would probably spend a few quid to get a structural engineers report. If I read you post right the joists are 3 by 2 which seems really undersized looking at the span, significantly so tbh. Just looking at the pic I can feel the strain in the joists lol.

I had to gauge out a few bits of plasterboard and found a quick and easy way. Grab the cheapest router you can, aldi and lidl do em. Set it at the few mil depth you need and it makes a quick and easy way to take out some of the plasterboard. Bit dusty mind, but work it does

2500 for mesh! Seems a massive over price

Build up is what we did

2nd to aico and this. Mine is also hooked into the sprinkler system

Pump in a soakaway? Sounds lie the soakaway isn't big enough.

We have been living in it for a year, and had the VOA done when we moved in to keep council of our back. Now nearing completion, hopefully sign off before xmass. Been buying stuff thats claimable throughout as it was a shell when we moved in... VAT stuff is ready to go so will submit straight after BCO sign off, going to use that to get flooring in! I will be very unhappy if they challange this.......

Just tried to cut some 10mm floor tiles using a similar cutter and have now bought an electric wet cutter... It was impossible. Did wall tiles a breeze, I mean dead easy but no chance on Italian porcelain floor ones. Bought the cutter from screwfix, around 100quid new but got it 50 second hand