joth

No, why would a fused isolator be required? I had the same thought for electric UFH mats. Like, the heating element is encased in adhesive under the tiles. Totally inaccessible. But our electrician insisted there must be a local isolation switch for anyone ever working on it. I guess in the case of a fault it maybe sensible to have a way to easily, locally isolate that one motor.

Does "most light" mean really no need for additional curtains in a bedroom, for example? The internorm Venetians have little holes for the support strings which let just a bit too much light through, especially from annoying point sources like a street light. The total blackout of shutters (plus additional sound and heat insulation this delivers) is quite a selling point. How robust are the external Venetians, to wind or casual vandalism? They seem to have vertical channels at the ends to stop gusts of wind lifting them off and banging back down?

Did you put a (fused?) isolation switch near to each shutter, for future maintenance? Presumably a double pole switch? I think this is the main thing pushing me towards nano relays (or small Knx actuator relays) in the backbox of the isolation switch, as it's there anyway, and a natural place to connect the external flex to internal T&E circuit

Is this the product page for them? https://www.roma.eu/external-venetian-blinds/modular-external-venetian-blinds As you say the nice thing about Venetian blinds is being able to block heat gains but still allow light in, and Loxone includes automatic support for this based on location and time of year . They state they have a Loxone control option, but not knx. Is it anything more than Tree/Air to up/down motor control relays with dead reckoning for position? The internorm blinds (for example) are in theory better as you can set absolute position or even read back their position/angle (but in practice are a bit crap because they use a proprietary unreliable wireless protocol). The optional fly screen appears to be manual control only, which is totally fine IMO.

That's the North American datasheet, fwiw I found those data sheets super vague. Think they still say my inverter is not supported at all (SE-8000HD) The max capacity is 9700 Wh and I'm not confident my metering (based off polling and integrating the battery's own reported power output) is enough to discern if I get that final 200Wh out of it or not. I guess that's 8p worth of usage I'm missing out on everyday.

I have a couple video sources in a central AV cupboard that I send to multiple rooms (and the audio to the whole house speakers). So we can wonder around from room to room and keep tabs on it (more for watching sport or something than a dedicated movie session oc). I believe households with more (than zero) children have less call for this, as then the whole point of multiple TVs is to NOT have the same thing on every set... I have a 4K HDCP2.2 blustream HDbaseT matrix which mostly solves this but Netflix won't do 4K. I installed some longer (15m) galvanic HDMI cables in the build, at quite some faff, but they also don't work at 4K. (Yes should have tested that first I now know!). 1080P is fine to my old eyes anyway; at least the sound is good.

Ha wish I'd known about AOC 2 years ago... They have versions with detachable connectors which makes it much easier to thread through building voids. I think the fiber termination is proprietary though so installing bare fiber and terminating later to make an AOC seems a long shot. I still wonder how reliable HDCP over them in practice. I've found anything that doesn't look like a pure direct HDMI cable makes it randomly crap out.

Interesting. Mine charges and discharges at 5kW and goes down to 1.5% charge (as I configured on the SE portal) fine with just wired connection. Is this lower performance than I should expect?

They need to do both: incentivise reductions in peak demand, and invest in storage. And retain a minimum set of peakers. It's so easy to create false dichotomies and make perfect be the enemy of good when it comes to "green" issues.

Yes quite, my scare quotes around "full rate" was lazy way of saying compressed stream but at a high enough quality you'd not know it. Like Blu-ray aims for. No one will be streaming uncompressed 8K to the home in my lifetime 😅 (or probably, ever). Thoughtfully implemented compression will surely always be worth applying.

Ah thanks. Hmmm. My inverter is connected to the battery by modbus. I saw the battery has an antenna, but to best of my knowledge the inverter doesn't have any ZigBee card. I failed to pull the green connector out. But it's working now so inclined to leave well alone. But annoying that the installers just don't understand how to correctly use twisted pair cable.

My assumption: At this point it's all project / R&D budget, exploring and proving out new models for dealing with peak-demand in a decarbonized and digitally integrated grid. Longer term, the proposition is not just to avoid the £ cost of the gas being burnt at peak times, but also save on the massive year-round capital and operating overheads of having N peaker plants sat around doing absolutely nothing for weeks at a time, and many hours of the day, just in case they're needed to cover those moments of absolute peak demand. You might as well ask if it is clear where natgrid get the money to fund that overhead from today.

I think there's quite a bit of diversity in production around the globe. The Daikin Manufacturing Germany Gmbh factory was set up to re-brand Rotex Products into Daikin for example. Viessmann, Kensa and Vailant all have manufacturing plants in the UK. What I was thinking of were the frequently re-badged generic ASHP's that come out of China. Nothing necessarily wrong with those, I've considered them for my own heating before, but I have seen some with pretty primitive circulators. Mitsubishi also manufacture in the UK https://www.hvnplus.co.uk/news/mitsubishi-electric-invests-15-3m-in-uk-heat-pump-manufacture-09-11-2021/ Kinda surprising how many manufacture here, given how much lower the install base is here vs rest of europe.

This. But also, W/m2 doesn't really matter that much if you're not space constrained. On large new builds like yours you may be more export limit constrained (3,68kW per phase) or budget constrained. Either case getting max W/£ is then the more important goal. Caveat: if you have loads of space but only a limited amount at the most perfect aspect/pitch then those prime positioned panels you obv want max W/m2 (Edit: admittedly the DNO export constraint can be worked around by under sizing the inverter vs amount of PV, or installing approved export limitation equipment, but regardless the W/£ is still the key measure for comparing one panel against another in non-space constrained install)

OK I was answering the question of internal distribution of a genuine 8K HDMI-like source. Regarding distribution of IP streamed from the internet to the TV itself, as @Kelvin says CAT6 will be more than enough even for future with fibre to the house. The streaming source (Netflix or whatever) compress the hell out of the stream, so it's not even 4K distribution in my book - it'll be decades before "full rate" 8K is streamed into the home. And even then, CAT6 would be OK.

Don't know about 8k but even at 4k I found the limit is not the bandwidth, but HDCP crapping out and blocking UHD transmission as it doesn't look like 1m length of pure HDMI cable. That was with an NVidia shield sending over a blustream HDbaseT matrix. YMMV

Register for an account with the Bright app Then connect to their API to download data https://brunty.me/post/hildebrand-glow-home-assistant-mqtt/ I've not actually tried this yet, but others have.

Very popular in Denver, I think most family houses are built with them. Being a mile high and very low humidity dessert conditions, the outdoor air temperature drops very low overnight even in the middle of summer, so extremely easy to cool a house by opening some windows and sucking the hot air out through the loft. https://www.coloradoenergygeeks.com/whole-house-fans

And to the utility/garage door. I expect it's a FD30 but they rarely have a good (or even quoted) U value.

Also it only applies to self builds (owner occupier), not to developer new builds. But that's not a problem for people on this forum 🙂

Says who? I asked my DNO and they couldn't care less. Said it was totally fine to just put in a single phase meter and have the entire house on that.

Why predict when you can measure! (If your existing smart meter is on DCC)

@JohnMo solution is the most efficient one but takes a bit of setting up so installers often won't do that. Also some users will find it confusing that turning a roomstat up high won't cause the room to get any hotter. For completeness the alternative is ditch the wireless stat and use the room stats to call for heat from the ASHP same as they normally would from a boiler. The requires an UFH wiring center at the manifold actuators with a "dry contact" relay output to call for heat, and wires this into the zone 1 or zone 2 call for heat inputs on the ecodan FTC You can still use weather compensation. But the system can easily short cycle and run at low efficiency if rooms call for heat at different times to each other. (in my system I have logic controller manage the call for heat and it will only do so when a certain % of rooms need heating)

So a small, positive update. I tried removing the battery then performing the forced reset (?) on it -- hold the O/I/P toggle in the P position for 5 secs -- before re-pairing it to the inverter. After doing this the self-test diagnostic still failed (passed the comms test, but failed the charge and discharge steps). However, it now appears to be working again. 24hrs plus in. It charged from sun yesterday midday and again today, and from Go cheap rate overnight, and discharged as expected at other times. When I get chance, I need to re-attempt another self-test diagnostic. If that now passes I'm not sure what next steps to take, as I don't want to be performing this fire drill every month. I've not been able to contact the supplier/installer at all, and SolarEdge have escalated the ticket to higher tier but no follow up yet.

Auto MDI-X (auto crossover) is well specified, and mandatory part of 1000base T. It specifically deals with the TX and RX pairs being swapped, but doesn't explain the cores being inverted within a pair. Gigabit ethernet uses AC signalling so there's the possibility the negotiation completes even with a polarity inversion. It means one pair is phase inverted so highly likely to mess with max bandwidth performance and maybe the PoE function too. Tldr the gigabit light lighting up is not proof of a perfectly wired cable. @Adam2 You definitely need a new testing protocol as the existing one that works according to pairs of pins on the connector is not giving a sensitive or specific diagnosis. Tip: is buying a new tester go with a 9 LED one with screening (ground) continuity test too, just avoid ever needing to buy another should you ever need that, LOL.