Big Jimbo

Nice space @Russdl Well done

Well done @Adsibob. I know that this is not your trade. You will get a lot of satisfaction from doing that.

@joe90 Do yourself a huge favour, and stick build a decent garage. Those log things are often sat outside for months or longer before you buy them. That thing is going to move up and down every year. You could knock up a stick One (Frame) in a couple of days. Don't T and G on the outside. The connection is just not deep enough. Just use a simple lap cladding outside, which will allow for a bit of seasonal movement.

In my opinion a Ford Capri deserves better @joe90

Complete shite in my opinion. Slotted restraints inside swelled and didn't slide. Stuck this up about 3 months ago for a neighbour.

That looks neat.

600mm is fine

Thank you @Redbeard my perimiter calc is .299

I have been trying for a while to calculate my potential U value for the floor. block and beam, but with 2 x 100mm PIR , 75mm screed. I cant get any of the online ones i can find that will let me go above 150mm floor insulation. 150 will give me a U value of 0.13, but i am just trying to find out how much better 200mm would be. Any ideas. Thanks in advance.

The problem with @nod is that i think he is a blinking Northerner. Not that i am against them. My wife is One. Just that he ain't coming down to sunny Hertfordshire on the promise of a packet of Hob Nobs is he ?

@Moonshine Provided your ply is well fixed to the wall, just woodscrews into the ply. If your dot and dab is thick, even more reason to cut it out, as any other way even more of your screw is unsupported.

Yes, but it is often missed.

Having fitted several hundred kitchens for my sins, i always cut out the plasterboard and glue and screw ply back to the wall. 18mm usually brings me roughly flush with the plasterboard. You can seal around these if you need to re airtightness etc. Any thing else is a bit of a bodge. Ok if they are tall units, sitting on the floor, but not wall cabs. You start loading those cabs with a load of tins..... Over time your cabs will move down the wall. The first inch of your screw regardless how long is unsupported. Not a good idea.

Any alteration of the going or rise will alter the angle, or increase, or decrease the length of the stair.

P.s.If you alter, either the going , or the rise, the angle of the handrail will not stay the same.

The uncut string against the wall will be rebated to take the risers, and the treads. The cut string on the left will not be deep enough to start altering the going or rise, and would need to be extended.This would reduce the headroom on the flight below. The treads and risers will currently be rebated into both strings and fitted with wedges and glue. The treads and risers will have triangular pieces of wood glued and nailed to hold them together. Prob Two or Three across the width. Believe me, they ain't coming out anytime soon. It would be cheaper to rip the stairs out and have them replaced. I have built about 7 staircases in my time. If you want to improve the look of the treads and risers, you could cut off the nosing, fit a thin, say 4mm Oak veneered ply to them, and have a new solid oak nosing fitted to each tread. You will still be left with the strings either side, but you could strip them back and re-paint. If you do take care. Ventilate well, and wear a mask. That old paint is going to be full of lead.

You have a cut string stairs. It does not make any difference, but is a nice feature, and makes a stairs, "less heavy". The short answer is no. Any alteration to the going or rise will affect the angle of the stairs. You might be able to make use of the Newel posts by grafting them onto a new post bottom. The only way to change the stairs is to rip them out, and replace with a new set. Be careful of head height if you want to change them. DO NOT underestimate how much work is involved...

I want @nod to do my dot n dab.

@MikeSharp01 stiff, feels very granular, i can form it in to a sausage with a fair bit of work, without it squeezing through my fingers. Flints are both small, and big. Thanks for the site. I will take a look.

It is obviously clay, but sandy clay with flints ?

To me it feels quite granular, and has the colour of red sand. Seem to contain a fair bit of flint in various sizes. I'll get it tested but was just wondering.

Any idea what type of soil this might be. The photos show a sample taken from 2.1 meters deep.

Except for solwelding. sorry bud.

I would be peed off if i were you. Ask him if he missed the Flemish bond when pricing up the job ? I would want him to admit this as a good faith gesture. Providing he admits his cock up, i would, in a friendly way, point out the fixed price contract, and offer to pay 33% of the 10k. I would have thought that that was fair. The most i would go to would be 50% of the 10K. You want to try and keep things friendly, but don't want to be bent over by your builder for his cock up.

@Dave Jones Nice extra points on your Saps