Barryscotland

Our drainage plan shows a filtration strip 25m long by 1m deep and 1m wide to stop water surging into the burn we are running our roof surface water into, our roof is roughly 220m2. It seems overkill to me, is there any simple calculation to see if it is needed before I phone the SE to see if it can be reduced any.

It is grey, now encased in concrete, cable followed the line of the boundary so hit it in all 10 holes. Ta

Digging post holes and hit this, any ideas what it is? Only about 300 down

In hindsight we wouldn’t use the plumber again as we’ve had a few leaks causing plasterboard an paint damage and I have concerns about the lack of pipe fixings used throughout, only used about 2/3 of the ufh pipe the design specified, wouldn’t solder insisted on using the expensive crimp fittings when I already had solder fittings, plumbed a toilet to the wrong position which wasn’t noticed until after the wall was tiled and a good few other things but he was the one the main contractor usually worked with so went with him.

So sparky and plumber both came out, water out the hot tap was 82 degrees according to the sparkys thermometer so he did something at the thermostat and boiler has since started cutting out on its own after about 25 minutes and plumber recharged or set something in the cylinder that had gone wrong he says due to the heat of the water, since he’s done that there is no water running out of the copper pipe that goes outside when the boiler runs. Also the showers seem to be back to original pressure. So all is now good, should hopefully use less gas and can get the solar diverter wired in.

I’ve never used the immersion since we moved in so no idea if it works, it was the red dial that I turned down and boiler clicked of so unless it was just coincidence there may be an issue. I’ve phoned sparky that did the wiring up of it and he’s calling in Monday to check it. Left a message for plumber for any certs I need

presuming the bottom left red dial is stat boiler is wired through as did as you suggested, had hot water on demand and turned dial when on 3 the zone valve clicked and when got to the boiler it was off so presume it is wired properly and that the problem is the stat is set too high? Anybody no what temps the 1 2 3 4 5 relate to?

No idea about q3 but would presume so, we never got any certificates for the water or gas side of things, hopefully nothings needed when we finally go to get house signed off. It was the sparky that wired everything up and he did seem to be the most competent out of all the tradesmen we’ve had in so I’d think it was done correctly.

Just checked and not on that one but one is a bit damp at top with a rusty line, should I be worried that it looks rusty??

I asked the plumber what causes it to cut out when temp reached, his reply was the boiler cuts out when it sees the return temp at 70 which is what water should be to kill germs, in practice it’s never cut out unless turned off by the timer

Wunda hub has three channels an each operates one of the valves. Hot water, towel rails, ufh manifold

I could do if I knew how hot the water was but no way of checking other than running a tap. Will add photos of the set up see if theres anything that can be done but without changing away from the Wunda set up I dont think there is.

Hot water is controlled via our wunda smart hub and as far as I can tell the only option is to have it on a timer, there is no way to monitor or control the actual hot water temperature other than the boiler is set to 70 degrees so if the return side of the boiler is at 70degrees it cuts out so in theory if its left on it should keep the water at 70degree but when ive tried this it never cuts out even after a few hours which may be because the tank is 20m worth of pipe away so its cooled enough by the time it gets from tank back to boiler to be below 70 degress even though hot water is now above 70? Im wanting to put a solar diverter onto my solar pv for any unused electric to heat the hot water but don't see how I can stop the boiler firing up on its usual timer settings when the water has already been heated by solar power. Its a gas system boiler and a pressurised 260l cylinder, 4 in the household and currently boiler is on for half hour in the morning and half hour at night which provides enough hot water for 4 showers and normal day to day needs. Also is it possible to have the towel rails which are on a seperate chanel kick in with the hot water?

Finished our house to a move in able level in March but leaving the rendering till next year due to lack of funds, bricky said it would be absolutely fine.

Must be luck of the draw on who handles your case, we are also P&K and where 5 weeks for planning decision and 5 weeks for building warrant being issued and that was with a few points needing addressed in the warrant. When you say cutting if you mean trees then be sure they are aware they are coming down as we got caught out with needing permission in retrospect after taking down a few that had been tagged in the tree survey that planning permission needed. Was obvious they needed brought down as they where where pavements and driveways where going but as they where tagged we had to get permission. Hindsight should have had all trees down that where coming down before planning was put in.

We lived in one for two years, my advice would be buy a double glazed and central heated one, Ours was single glazing and no heating, wasn't a very pleasant experience in the winter time. We did save a lot of money over the 2 years we lived in it and we got more for the static than we paid for it when the time came to sell it on. We did have to pay band A council tax. You will need a good window vacuum for all the condensation.

Pretty sure it will of been a collating gun rather than a nail gun

All Renewable Energy Ltd They are in Perth but cover Fife and will sort you out with pump and panels and install. UFH would just be your plumber? Our slates came from SIG in Dundee, they came in the cheapest by far for a warranted slate, think they have a fife branch

We do but it’s never been on but house is warm and trap only holds Half a ladle full so I’m thinking it must be evaporating as can’t be anything else.

We have been moved in for 3 months now, starting from last week the shower trap has started emptying causing the on suite to stink. It’s a jackoboard linear drain and tray. Even when the house is empty for the day the trap empty’s so cant see it being sucked out and it can’t be evaporating that quick? Also when I’ve pulled the trap out to test it by filling it with water and checking for water leakage thinking it was maybe cracked (it holds water fine) I noticed what looks like a gap between shower tray waste and the cup on the end of the drainage pipe, is that normal or something that needs filled in? What else could cause trap to empty?

Chatting to a chap about solar panels pros and cons and he said that as we had missed out on the good sell back to the grid tarrifs what we needed was an old style rotary electric meter as they go backwards when power is going back into the grid. Anybody got one an can confirm this is correct? Not that there’s any chance of any energy supplier fitting one for us, just curious.

Do you need a structural warranty to get a normal mortgage? We never bothered as never intend to sell but will be looking to switch from self build mortgage (3.9% interest) to normal mortgage (hopefully under 3%) in the next few months.

We have permission to discharge into the stream, that where the water has always ended up as its clay all over our site so soakaways are not an option. They have asked for a filtration strip before the stream tho.

So building inspectors will be ok about it. what about inspection chambers/rodding eyes did you need one at every change of direction? The drawing we have for the surface water shows I think 5 inspection chambers which seems excessive.