Barryscotland

Basically as it was in the first pic but with a bit of loft insulation

Have already bought 22mm chipboard flooring, hopefully that’s ok for building regs whats FR? Skiddly bits of wood on the trusses was just bracing to hold in position until the sarking went on. Nothing else has been added to the roof except sarking an there’s joins on all the trusses with the spiky metal joining plates, presumably as you don’t get 9m long bits of wood

Our roof space is attic trusses for future development, gable an velux windows already installed. I would like to purchase the insulation for it before I put in my vat reclaim but as it’s not getting done yet it’s not on the spec sheet so unsure as to what thickness pir or even which face it go’s on. Thinking 100mm on the “walls” and 450mm wool above ceiling and wrapped in breathable membrane? We don’t plan on putting in a staircase or internal walls anytime soon but as soon as it’s signed of I’d like to get the insulation in as it’s currently a book store an the books are starting to curl. Anybody have a drawing of an attic that they have done in the past? I understand we need to keep the ventilation from the eaves to underside of rafters

They don't sell cemfloor direct, you need to be registered to use it apparently. We were £2400 for 160m2 at 60mm inc pump n labour. about a year ago.

not drainfield, a field drain. maybe what im calling a soakaway is what you call a drainfield

A friend is putting small extension onto his old farmhouse and I went out to help him connect up his down pipes. dug down at the nearest existing down pipe to find which way it headed and discovered that its trap was full of bog paper n poop so that old down pipe is connected into the sewer line not the line that goes straight to the soakaway. Now he has had issues with the waste pipe backing up regularly and has to rod multiple areas to get it all moving again an this has been ongoing since he moved in 7 years ago also has to empty the tank once a year, my question is could the downpipe of been put into the sewer to flush the pipe and try to stop the blockage or is it going to be adding to the problem? I dont want to reroute it straight to the soakaway if its going to cause the waste to back up more often. The house is 1800s but the waste an surface water was all modernised about 15 years ago with a new twin chamber tank and massive soakaway, with an overflow to a field drain.

Unfortunately with the room design it’s the only way to get a stove in the room. It was meant to go in the centre of the windowed gable but that’s all structural timber on the wall and a ridge beam at the top an if we kink to the side of the ridge beam the flue covers a chunk of window. I think it can be made to look good and don’t see tv being any higher than it already is, was just the heat that was a concern. We have free wood and last gas bill was £320 so going to give it a try

im guessing you also don’t have two kids and a lady friend under 40. I’m quite happy with a book an piece an quite but the others in the house would throw a fit at the idea of no Tv!

5Kw stove and the wife wants the tv recessed into the fake chimney above the stove. There will be an oak mantle above the stove and the stove is sitting inside the chimney. twin wall flue a foot from the top of the stove and everything is fine for regulation distances but has anyone done the tv above the stove and the tv survived the heat?

We are having the same issues and seems changing flow rates, boiler temp, blending valve temp makes no difference to how much gas we use or the spike in room temperature. I had a stat in each room but have now put the beds all on one, the kitchen, living, dining on one an bathrooms on another and just leave them set at 18 degrees. When each room was on its own stat it seemed like the boiler was constantly running. Boiler cuts out at 18 but some rooms still spike at 21, house temp is constantly fluctuating would be nice to get it to just stay at a constant temp. We are using less gas (still £170 a month) now we are just on the 3 stats and leaving them on a set temp instead of playing with them.

Good news, she’s (BC) paying us a visit next week

No just getting left as plain boring but more importantly cheap concrete

Will this be a problem for getting BC to sign off? A thick mat on the outside solve it? Or new door needed as I ordered wrong thing.

They haven't but maybe because there is two towel rails that have there own port that comes on with the bathroom stats and needs the higher temperature? I will lower the temp on the mixer on the UFH manifold and see if it makes any difference, also the return temp was the same as the feed after the boiler was on for a while so does that mean I need to turn the pump speed down so the screed has time to absorb the heat?

Mixture of tiles, carpet and wood. All is meant to be designed for UFH with relevant suitable underlays etc

I have no doubt that if i let the boiler run longer we could get the house proper toasty, was often into the mid 30s during summer, sun makes a huge difference to the interior temp bit its been lacking this last month or two. No heat loss calcs done nor would I no how too

Alpha tec 20kw system boiler, wired S plan

So turn the temp on the mixer at the manifold down to what temp? Would that not just take longer to heat up and the boiler run longer?

Not alot if my house was warm but at least 60% of the 4 week period my house was below 16 degrees. Don't no the kwh or unit rate but my bill after submitting a reading was £202.54 for 4 weeks

Not really used our heating up till last month and we have managed to use £200 of gas in 1 month and that is with only occassional use and the stats set to 16 degrees when turned on. It seems to take around 2 hours of constant boiler running before the temp starts to lift from 14 degrees then another 2 - 3 hours to get to 16 degrees. Boiler then cuts of and temperature continues to rise to a minimum of 19 degrees which is a fine temp for us. Heating is then switched of untill it gets proper cold in the house a few days later and again switched on till it gets to 16 degrees. 20kw alpha gas boiler 55mm of cemfloor screed with 120mm insulation under it. Is it normal to take so long to heat up? Am I cheaper in the long run to have the boiler running more regularly rather than the slab cooling right down? Boiler is set to 65 degrees, flow at the mixer on manifold is 45 degrees, pump is on number 3 and flow rates are all at about 2.5l a minute, is this as it should be? Its a new build and achieved a low A EPC rating so thought it would be way cheaper and easier to heat than our old stone cottage Looking to install a stove as we have free wood but not going to happen for a few months yet due to a design cockup

There’s set guidelines (at least in Scotland) as to whether you need a bat survey or not. We did as the house we where demolishing had a slate roof and stone gable, in hind site the roof should of “fell in” before we put in for planning as it would of saved a year or delay waiting on the right time of year for the surveys etc and a chunk of money. We found that most bat people are quite literally nutz about bats however we where luckily pointed in the direction of a bat surveyor who was doing it as a job and not a passion. Bats where just the start of our tick the box and deplete the savings exercises, tree surveys, archeological surveys etc worth it in the end but keeping alot of in my opinion pointless people in a job

Letter through the post this morning, rate going upto 5.09% with ecology which I guess in the current climate is good. We are at the stage we could switch to a normal mortgage if we could find someone to take us without a structural warranty but with the rates on offer and paying solicitors and set up fees etc I don't think I would really be any better off.

Recieved this today. We have received Notice of Initiation of Development for the above proposed development stating works were started on the 10th of April 2021. Please be advised that condition 6 is suspensive and as such required the submission of satisfactory details prior to commencement. Development should therefore not have begun until the following matter was addressed: 6. Prior to the commencement of the development hereby approved, details of the extension of the existing footway to the south west of the site to meet the vehicular access into the development site shall be submitted to and approved in writing by the Planning Authority. The detail shall ensure that the footway continues along the frontage of the application site meet the vehicular access for the development. The footway shall match the width of the existing footpath and shall be designed to a specification to the satisfaction of the Council as Planning Authority. The details, as approved in writing, shall be implemented prior to the completion or bringing into use of the development, whichever is the earlier. Please submit this information within 14 days of the date of this correspondence. This should be submitted via the e-planning website as a post submission document or alternatively by email to developmentmanagement@pkc.gov.uk. Please note that there is now a fee of £100 for condition discharge and that this is applicable to each submission, so it is in your interest to submit everything in one go. Payment can be made via the e-planning website or alternatively by calling the Councils Customer Service Centre on 01738 475300. Failure to submit the required information and payment within the 14 days given may result in formal enforcement action. Thank you for your attention in this regard. Yours sincerely, Nothing has been done with regards to this yet as the area they want a footpath (there has never been a footpath there before ever) is wider than our driveway (pillar either side) so we have been using it as access for lorries. We where planning on doing the pavement and taring the bellmouth once the build was finished which it is bar landscaping but still could do with the wider access for aggregate deliveries. I now realise work should of been done before or tried to get an ammendment to the condition but never really read the planning or building warrant bits, left it to the architect. Is it something that I could try to get a postponement on or does it have to be done asap? Should I phone planning yto explain or leave it in the hands of the architect.

Cupboard under the sink is very smelly, same smell briefly comes out of the sink after it’s been drained. Thought it must be the dishwasher pipe as it’s in before the trap but it doesn’t smell. Took all pipework of an cleaned (wasn’t dirty tho) an smell still present, u bend was full of water so working. Took kickplate of an no smell under units. pipe goes into a 110 pipe in the floor then out of building, only thing in that leg of sewer is kitchen sink an dishwasher. As it’s smelling In the cupboard all the time does it have to be the pipe before the u bend causing it? Crack or bad seal?

So floor-over it and forget about it