BotusBuild

When I used to scuba dive, the accepted thing to so before donning the face mask was spit inside it and wipe it around with your fingers. Worked every time.

That looks like a lazy design to me. As John says, both the long thin halls can be heated by using the loops from other rooms feeding back to the manifold, so that's two loops saved straight away. Have they had the heat loss per room figures to work with? The 150mm centres on the loops maybe too much for a new build well insulated house (assumption made on this being a new build).

I should have expanded. My thinking was make these "thin" materials a part of the solution to help get the R up to 6. I was not suggesting using these materials alone. I should perhaps have been clearer.

I am just in the midst of stone cladding onto Nudura (EPS ICF). First it was screeded using Duravit and embedded mesh, and then roughed up to allow the adhesive to key into it. This seems to be the essential step for any "hard cladding" such as stone panels or flints or the stonework as pictured above by Russell. The adhesive (Sicher Kerami plus) came in 25kg bags to be mixed onsite with added water. It's much like tiling a wall - apply adhesive to wall, trowel in vertical grooves, "butter" the stone cladding, affix to wall. Above 2.4m you have to mechanically fix these as well Result: For flints I suspect the mix would be a little thicker and you would want to do the bottom row, let it set off and then do the next row.

Would something like that Superfoil stuff help. Or insulation stripped out from old airliners? Good recycling credentials 🙂

Now doubt then that it will end up being owned by some foreign state fund or pension fund, because UK equivalents will be too short sighted to consider investing

We started as weekend and holiday time builders as I was still working. We're now weekday builders and the switch was strange. The 6am morning 🤣 Yep, that's a self build thing. And power tools (angle grinder v manual cutter) are your friend. They will save those joints 😉

I plan to use the external Soudal SWS sealant

Aren't the actual 'bulbs' or strips standard items. If only 😀 Not all luminaires have bulb that can be changed without literally taking the whole thing apart and possibly even getting out your soldering iron. PITA

+1 use the right sealant and clean up the finger wipes at the same time

You've all got it wrong. You attach an anchor to the seabed

That's the plan 🙂 Probably go for 10-20% spares of whatever we fit.

Our current product of interest is LED downlights - colour, wattage, dimmable, tilt angle, diameter, replaceable bulbs, opening size, module or direct wiring. Who knows if some of the manufacturers will be around in 5 years when no doubt one or more will need replacing, and the thought of having different looking downlights in the same area just leaves me cold

Far too modern for me 😁. And I have a "thing" about BMW (long story)

Why I love driving the MGB GT, and always with a smile on my face, which cannot be said of my modern daily drivers (apart from the Saab 93 I used to own)

Its great when things start to take shape to your plans. Keep going, its well worth the effort in the end. This all reminds me of our start, and also that I need to do a blog entry 🙂

He sounds like a trade person that takes pride in his work and will want to resolve this. Don't feel bad. Taping maybe the answer but let the plasterer deem what is necessary

Fire appliance access could be a planning issue, but can be overcome by having a mist or spray system fitted to final build

You can add images here 🙂 With a freestanding bath, the main differences are that the waste pipe will likely need to go under the floor "to hide it", and your hot a cold water will connect to what I call a "stand pipe" tap. So, it all depends on what has happened with your first fix plumbing - where do the hot, cold and waste pipes currently end? Are there near where you want to locate your freestanding bath, or would they need moving somewhere else?

Now you've guinea pigged it, I know how I'm doing mine 😁

Ahh, blue air days. Had a few of those pulling cables in my early work life

Yes. Up to you how visible they are

Is the 25mm a physical space limit? I find that very difficult to believe

If just a shell then install as much cabling as you can, and then conduits with draw strings with long radius bends wherever you think you might need cables in future. However, just pull as much cable as you can now, even if you don't use it straight away. Just keep lots of notes/photos of where the cables end

🤣 The way i would do it - Minimum two pieces. Lower piece [fit first] goes on the lower horizontal, up the lower vertical, and along the midline horizontal. The second piece overlaps on the midline horizontal, goes up the upper vertical and then over the top.