BotusBuild

Yup

Apparently 🤣

My fingers crossed attitude to the UFH pipes in the slab foundation without pressure testing seemed to work. They were all still under factory air pressure when I finally cut them back to fit to the manifold 3.5 years later. Didn't half give me a shock when I cut the first one!!

Nice last touch.

I got mine from the insulation seconds place in south wales. Alternatively, 100mm and 60mm in two layers, or whatever you can buy

🙂 Not what I had in mind, and not the price I had in mind either 🙂

I know there's been a number of threads on this. I'm in need of something that will detect the plastic webs inside a Nudura wall now that they are plastered. I have been recommended to get a density based finder, but without a particular model being stated. I have used a magnet held loosely in my hand to detect the plasterboard screws but this is a time thief method, and demands you need to have a reasonable idea where to start. Thanks team

Water round the gate post to start with. We await with baited breath

The only way to go. I isolated a leaking window problem to the water getting in through one of those confounded brush seals into the frame. Now waiting for the fitters/manufacturers to cure their error. How is the window upstand waterproofed on the outside? I presume there is some flashing. Is that cracked? Does it need replacing/repairing?

That pot belly will reduce as the excess weight is used to power you onwards and as the muscles tighten up. Now I wonder why I know that?

Can I ask what screed did you use? And what glue? And those screws look special?

Floor makeup is web joists with 18mm T&G plywood so far. On top of this will be grooved UFH insulation and pipes. I plan to put some hard cover over this before the final flooring (LVT glued or click). Logic and common sense tell me a stiffer board e.g. 9mm plywood screwed down through to the 18mm plywood makes the most sense. Is it sensible? Have I overthought/over engineered? What would be an alternative I might want to consider. FYI-the grooved insulation and UFH is not up for negotiation so lay off that part 🙂

I mentioned the walls once, but I think I got away with it

That as well 😁

When I used to scuba dive, the accepted thing to so before donning the face mask was spit inside it and wipe it around with your fingers. Worked every time.

That looks like a lazy design to me. As John says, both the long thin halls can be heated by using the loops from other rooms feeding back to the manifold, so that's two loops saved straight away. Have they had the heat loss per room figures to work with? The 150mm centres on the loops maybe too much for a new build well insulated house (assumption made on this being a new build).

I should have expanded. My thinking was make these "thin" materials a part of the solution to help get the R up to 6. I was not suggesting using these materials alone. I should perhaps have been clearer.

I am just in the midst of stone cladding onto Nudura (EPS ICF). First it was screeded using Duravit and embedded mesh, and then roughed up to allow the adhesive to key into it. This seems to be the essential step for any "hard cladding" such as stone panels or flints or the stonework as pictured above by Russell. The adhesive (Sicher Kerami plus) came in 25kg bags to be mixed onsite with added water. It's much like tiling a wall - apply adhesive to wall, trowel in vertical grooves, "butter" the stone cladding, affix to wall. Above 2.4m you have to mechanically fix these as well Result: For flints I suspect the mix would be a little thicker and you would want to do the bottom row, let it set off and then do the next row.

Would something like that Superfoil stuff help. Or insulation stripped out from old airliners? Good recycling credentials 🙂

Now doubt then that it will end up being owned by some foreign state fund or pension fund, because UK equivalents will be too short sighted to consider investing

We started as weekend and holiday time builders as I was still working. We're now weekday builders and the switch was strange. The 6am morning 🤣 Yep, that's a self build thing. And power tools (angle grinder v manual cutter) are your friend. They will save those joints 😉

I plan to use the external Soudal SWS sealant

Aren't the actual 'bulbs' or strips standard items. If only 😀 Not all luminaires have bulb that can be changed without literally taking the whole thing apart and possibly even getting out your soldering iron. PITA

+1 use the right sealant and clean up the finger wipes at the same time

You've all got it wrong. You attach an anchor to the seabed