scottishjohn

you seem to be trying to get all this advice and information on the NHS without doing the hard yards yourself--and with an unrealistic budget It don,t work like that and remember the old adage offer peanuts and all you get is monkey's. please accept the prices you have been quoted as correct £1300 -2000 pr sqm --dependant on your choice of materials and fitments cheaper is good --but don,t bet on it at this stage --in that price is professional costs for plans and advice you got to spend some money to see if it is viable - PP is the first money you need to spend ,if you don,t have a plan ready to accompany a full planning application that means an architect to draw up the plans after he has discussed what you want and what you can afford not trying to be hard on you --but at some point you have to spend some money i recently blew £500 on a topographical survey on some land to prove what i thought that the planning was not usable .cos the detail on it given by land owner was incorrect - didn't buy the land so saved myself a lot more than the cost of the survey

would it not need to be 170mm TF if no blockwork+ cavity to get same insulation value? ask your frame maker

how you going to seal each panel to next one -for certain , long way off yet anyway -just throwing ideas about . you are probably right -will need to look at how to get drains and things in anyway before any final decision is made -the knee jerk reaction is flatten and start again -,but time to some extent to build is not a problem,other than my age .LOL i certainly have the workshop space to prefab things off site and thoughts are to put another floor /viewing lounge on the top to take advantage of the views still trying to get it bought at this time

the second picture is the garage /stable which are attached to end of main house--its big and its seems criminal to pull it all down .note the 2 stone staircase on outside to get to the upper floor of it

I understand what you say ,and sort of agree ,but as its had no roof for 20years + and the walls look same as they do in the pictures even now after many winters ,then i am fairly certain the walls are very free draining or frost would have burst them by now if they were not i am trying to keep the inside as large as possible and keep wall thickness to below 3foot !! suggestions on how to make the new inner wall water proof on the OUTSIDE , next to the stone wall when you can only get at one side is the problem hence the thought of using closed cell spray foam as a layer on it and leave top of wall open and vented to outside

J just plotting my next build and it may well be an old granite shell which i will build a new house inside so it seems that pur closed cell foam to seal inside of wall seems possible ,but I was thinking of attaching studs to the wall as well then 2L2(foil+bubbles) over these studs as another vapour barrier# so the question is does anybody know of something that can stick studs to walls ,which will act as a DPC on the studs and then allow frame work to built up on them at same time , roof loads will be on the outer walls the water in the walls will have to evoporate ,over time ,out of the top of the walls ,as it was pointed 50years ago with granite sand +cement, no roof for last 20 years --not a crack in sight ,even though we have 8-10"diameter by 25ft tall trees growing out of the bottom of the walls in 2 places where the walls meet the ground open to other suggestions the outer walls are so perfect it seems a crime to knock it down and build a totally modern thing.its built on bedrock so no worries about foundations . maybe i,m thinking wrong ,maybe just re-roof it build interior framing with 50mm gap to walls ,then closed cell foam all the walls and around the studs as well ? these pictures are from 1970 -- its a lot more "bushed up" now

always start with --what price will it be easily saleable for when its done ? price of others that are similar locally,that have been sold recently ? just to check it is worth the grief of doing it . cost of somewhere to live while build is going on + add a good bit of extra time for builder not completing it on time ,for what ever reason

just money to them -.

a bit of commons sense +couple in 30,s ,no kids --the odds are pretty high they going to get some soon and if your close to the edge of the lending criteria ,then i have no doubt that will be looked at in any final decision would it be any different than a mortgage provider insisting on life insurance of the bread winner? so maybe an insurance policy against having kids? any way pretty sure a self build mortgage will be suing £2k a sq m to decide if your figures are reasonanble for the build

difference is you already had an offer that they withdrew not the same as not getting one to start with next your going to tell me i have to give reason not to give someone a credit account with my BIZ giving and recinding is not same as not offering

you carefully missed the point ,they do not need to say anything --just don,t offer you one

I think we can go orund in circles with this for ever bottom line is Go ASK

but they do not have to give reasons for not making a loan to to you-so you will never know

not a clue, but it something i would be considering if i were the lender --and its just another reason for them to say NO -legal or otherwise,common sense says you should be thinking of that anyway same as i would always got for a 50year old woman to employ rather than a 25year old --as an employer its costs a shed load of money when you have deal with maternity problems in small biz

I would want a clause that says any subsidence of the roads or tracks they cross will be their liability to repair for a term of 10 years . If they quibble at that --it tells you they going to do a rough arse job

and unless you can prove definitively your wife is not going to have kids --when her income will likely stop -- you stand a dull chance go ask them --put if off and save some more is the answer as you have the plot and who knows what brexit will do to interest rates ?? If i were you I would using the extra time for lots of planning AND not jumping just now too many variables ,or just get planning -- do the founds with the money you have to start with

as you going to need a mortgage it would seem prudent to find out exactly how much you can get first then you design your house to suit and allow 10% for extras

maybe you should work on the £1300- £1500 sq m for all preliminary calculations and mortgage requirements,then you have wiggle space and then "cut your suit to available cloth" that will allow you a contingency fund ?

I agree but those things you would agree with trades at time of quote.who is doing what and if you don,t do your bit ,yes you going to pay more

If disagree with the assumption that a quoted price will be "screwed down" as you say it is up to the builder to give a quote that he can stick to and complete the job in a good timely manner ,at the right quality . and would be expecting him to give choices on some things in the discussions before he gave his quote for the works. Yes trust is needed --but seems all one way if its just day rate and I would not be adverse to paying some extras if justified ,before hand . as with all things communication is key a lot of these extras quite often seem like me quoting for a service --then saying oil is extra

how many times are you going to build a house --most people it will be a one off --so if he can make killing-he ain,t worried about repeat biz I agree though in a small community they could not get away with that for long ,if there are others who will break sweat and do a good job big cities will always be far worse as for extras ,that again comes down to experience and a good tradesman should know where the problems will be an advise at the outset -like floor boards but we are talking about quotes on new build --so thats a different thing -notas many valid excuses for extras if if studied the plans to start with +asked questions eg If i get a jap 4x4 at 10 years old needs a -say an abs sensor -- Iknow for sure that the fixings will break and i,ll be drilling and retapping .why cos they do little rust protection so things corrode much worse than a european vehicle at 3 years old --no it will be the 1/2 hr job the book says it is

just me maybe but i would never if at all possible go for a daily rate --thats a free hand to go slow and make job last If they have a problem giving a quote for the labour to do the job --then they are not my idea of a professional builder. If you brought your car into me and i told you I,ll charge by hour + you,ll be paying for the men to go for lunch and having wee sleeps on the job -and not give you a quote for the job ,so you could compare my price with others--you would walk away . would you pay a brickie like that ?--no you would ask for a price per thousand

from my experience of having commercial air con and refridgeration units ,which really are same as ASHP then I would be very suprised if an ASHP did not last longer than any sort of modern gas or oil boiler with a thin crappy heat exchanger in them the modern self condensing ones rot the away pretty quickly ,even british gas say you should be changing boiler every 7 or 8 years and nobody will give you a total service+ parts package for more than 5 or 6 years for a fixed yearly figure --after that you pay extra for parts --so that makes me think 7 years is about right time for trouble free running of boilers. I could be wrong ,whats the longest somoene has had a an ASHP?

maybe an opportunity there for you?

If you have vcl on inside of it -how are any vapours going to effect you --the permeable house wrap is allow them to gas off to the outside over time. I have been looking at an old granite house and looking for simplest way to get a non permeable layer on inside of the walls , the idea is to build a TF inside old walls closed pur foam is what I have been told by more than one source as the way to seal the old walls -a 30MM layer of closed cell ,as it is a water /vapour barrier it will make any moisture and any "off gassing " in thewall go outwards through the lime mortar , sprayed in after skeleton of Tf is built(30mm from wall face) ,then insulation of your choice before closing the new interior walls with air tight membrane seems this is a common way of dealing with these problems in barn conversions . icynene close cell? ,you sure that's not PUR he was meaning- still not a DIY job