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scottishjohn

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Everything posted by scottishjohn

  1. scottishjohn
    sounds not bad for them £1000 for a couple hours of welding .LOL. but thats maybe the going rate for on site welding there
  2. scottishjohn
    If the welder on site is expensive bit bolt them on with contersunk screws from top side and nuts on underside . maybe it needs to be thicker plate -but bolting is easy enough . worst case scenario is hire a MAG drill for half a day
  3. scottishjohn
    buffer tank would work for solar +ashp as well, when not doing dhw or when solar cannot get to temp of water already in system DHW not many days when you don,t get 30c in solar the combinations are endless with suitable control circuits
  4. scottishjohn
    this is why I am looking for a very flexible controller as tried to do this with multiple analog thermostats and the hysteresis was always too great to be very good I had my solar controller down to +6c over tank temp and it turned on ,but again it was too simple to always doing what it should do I came to conclusion to get best you would need 3 tanks with different set temps +you had to be able to run solar input direct to floor through a heat exchanger for best use of solar energy SO yes probable cost outweigh benefits,but as houses need less and less energy there could be a time when it would work . this was the reason i was asking for total energy needed to heat a near passiv house per day - then maybe tank size could be calculated. and if a concrete unit built when house was and paart of floor inside building any heat losses would go into fabric of building 5" phonelic foam is what kingspan man told me was max it would sensible be to use --after that the extra savings in heat loss is so small it would never be viable .
  5. scottishjohn
    was just writing what did which is similar--make them touch hard against floor.
  6. scottishjohn
    if you do that it will still work yes but not as good , not sure skimping on floor where you are living all the time is a good idea cheap alternative ? stick tinfoil to underside of floor ? assuming you are sealing this off from below to keep any heat you add trapped in that space and hopefully most goes the way you want it too --up
  7. scottishjohn
    I did something similar only different with upstairs as it was a retro fit Iifted chip board fitted batons to sides of joists ,then cut PUR to fit the space between joists supported on these batons then laid UFH piping on top of PUR had it so the pipes were tight up to flooring when finished. I like the biscuit mix better but would couldn,t afford rising floor height to do it that
  8. scottishjohn
    so basically if it has an indirect coil its a thermal store if it does not its and UVC in that case the tank on my ecodan unit is an unvented cylinder,as the heating is done via a plate exchanger and an immersion in parent volume
  9. scottishjohn
    from my experience with 40 tubes I think really you need to run at least 2 tanks ,so anytime there is sun that can give 30+ it can dump it in to a tank --cos if your main tank is already hotter ,the solar just sits then be able to direct it to UFH or DHW as required.-ue plater heat exchanger maybe --not actually interfere with ufh water circuit directly Iran my underfloor as a test in february on this hosue ona sunny day --direct from panels at 25c If that was a modern type of slab and good passiv type house -- storage is always problem with solar --you need alot of it and to be able to keep it at dif temps levels ,to get what heat when you can --so retro fit always going to be a problem. or do like i saw a house in switerzland 2 storey typical tall steep angled roof --one complete gable end was a tank so you would have nearly 30ft to stratify the temps -- they do have very clear sunny days even in winter ,which would help very much as it would be being topped up and in summer whole tank would get hot eventually my guess about 15000litre tank not a retro fit job ,unless you got a gable with no windows. lol but I just wonder with very low energy modern houses if it might be possible to do --
  10. scottishjohn
    maybe it recovers quicker than some think ? not sure what the difference is between the 2 descriptions --both store hot water,both are insulated i,m sure someone will enlighten us my last one had solar coil ufh coil in middle and dhw at top and the i fitted blender on outside to mix mains hot and cold to get desired temp and not just use all the hot water which would then need alot of cold adding at the tap
  11. scottishjohn
    why do you assume I don,t know that maybe you need to find a more co-operative EPC man ,then you get max payment
  12. scottishjohn
    thats the beauty of buying good quality tank 270 litre i think I don ,t need to know and as i have the solar type unit i can heat dhw for free 80% of the year . and it has an immersion element as well which it uses when it decides to . I,m happy with the system - i don,t have mains gas ,so it was the best simplest all round choice I already said early mains gas is the cheapest . I have no idea of recovery time as I have never run out of hot water with 2 bathrooms
  13. scottishjohn
    yep,mains pressure DHW ecodan ASHP and a plumbed cylinder +controller package --does UFH +DHW . ashp runs high temp for DHW only when it needs for anti legionella -all automatic you set temps for both UFH +DHW on controller
  14. scottishjohn
    funny how my ecodan plumbed unit works fine -heats DHwater to 55c - or you telling me mitsubishi don,t know what they are doing ?
  15. scottishjohn
    NO. Ive had LPG and it is worse or sometimes better than oil,depending on world pricing and deal you can get --but both are so much worse than mains gas. so spending more on the insulation level should be first goal as that will drop your energy usage now and forever doing that is the first and best thing you can do for your house ,how you heat it is secondary . anyway --look at getting insulation better and look very hard at ASHP +RHI payments you can get -use that to heat UFH and a thermal store for dhw. as already stated getting multiple heat sources will only work well if you are into serious control systems
  16. scottishjohn
    1,6 kw prhr x 24hr =38kw that is real worse case scenario as not many days inyear when you see -10c average winter temp here from epc calcs is +3c. ok another question --total energy used in last year for heating ?
  17. scottishjohn
    yes it was you JS so actual heat input for 24hrs is around 38-40 kw that's fine thank you
  18. scottishjohn
    srtaight away even before i go check the rad level will be more than where i am --so that will alter things and at what cost per kw you calculated the savings.
  19. scottishjohn
    well that what the last quotes i got was working out at when fitted by MCS , why would you think i,m just trying to argumentative if i could see a gain in my pocket . I have no system at this time --no axe to grind -nothing fixed in stone so that is why i ask where in uk (rad level) and is that fitted price by MCS --cos the er will be no government money unless it is
  20. scottishjohn
    Is that fitted by MCS and where in uk
  21. scottishjohn
    so tell me how many kw,s do you need per day to heat your house with a floor temp of 24 c
  22. scottishjohn
    retro fits are always going to be problems . from new you just wouldn,t do that
  23. scottishjohn
    you guys have comfirmed what i thought --leave wet room floor 100 mm down and make it up later when she has decided on fittings
  24. scottishjohn
    yes the first system i was supplied had that ,but i changed it for an auto air bleed unit and a little running soon bleeds out the air ,very little actual volume of water in the system
  25. scottishjohn
    yes a bad installation by the sound if hiding it all away
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