Mr Punter

Someone else on here suggested shock collars for their kids...

Some tent pegs driven at an angle

The section drawing is not very helpful as it shows the other side of the extension, where you have a path. You really need details showing the opposite side.

Put in an attenuation tank and specify permeable paving. It possibly won't do much good, but it should get signed off. As there is an existing building you will not be making matters worse. Worst case you are allowed to discharge to a foul sewer, although this is not to be encouraged. If it is clay, the more you dig out, the bigger the pond you create. Percolation tests / drainage mounds are for foul water systems and you have a main sewer connection.

If a wall has been tape and filled it is good to give it a once over with a soft brush to remove the dust.

Another vote for the gutter. I have used Guttercrest for aluminium gutters and I am very happy with them. If the roof is going to be zinc, you could stick to zinc. Expensive though. I have seen the top hung posis in the manual. The only issue may be that the strut should overhang the bearing by 15mm, but if the supplier did the design and calcs to prove it works, then all is good.

I think the retaining walls faced with reclaimed stone are messing you up. Get a proper design for the wall. Get someone else to do the stone facings.

Sadly this is commonplace and the combination of flat roof and parapet wall is particularly prone to failure.

Gabions can look really good if they are faced with decent stone. You could leave the wall and have the gabions in front. You can get some planting in them too, as well as a flat area on the top.

Space it so you will cut the first row. Work out where the last row will fall so you can decide how wide to cut the first row. Bank on cutting 2 rows.

Ignore as I noticed this is for timber frame

Resin fixings would be better as they don't expand. Clean the holes thoroughly before you resin.

Because you referred to them as "he" three times.

It really should not cost a fortune to render an extension in sand and cement. How much was the cheapest quote? Is the BI insisting it is rendered before signoff?

With a user name of DonnaP123 the OP is probably female (or whatever you are supposed to say now).

All gas boilers are condensing. I think you mean combi boilers? You don't need lots of hot water for a kitchen. Dishwasher heats cold water. You could just get an under sink heater for any washing up or hand washing.

I would keep the fixings you have and tighten them a little, so the washer is snug on the sheet.

Not strictly on topic but it appears that you are building right up to the boundary on the left. Do you have consent from the adjacent owner to erect scaffolding and possibly construct foundations on their land?

Will the water table mean you need to make special provision to for drainage under the slab? @nod had a soggy site on and laid concrete to falls under the beam and block.

Is that plus fees, prelims, service connections, scaffold, welfare, insurances, warranty etc?

It will be no issue with a packaged pump station.

The condition is a matter for planning, not building regs so it will not affect signoff. It is very unlikely to have any repercussions if you ignore it, as long as you submit details of what you intend to do and have those details approved in writing.

Unless they condition that the blackout blinds are drawn at night the planning condition is nonsensical.

OK. Maybe you should prioritise getting the house safe and weathertight. You don't need to inform planning. Once you have commenced you can take as long as you like or choose not to do it at all. If there are structural alterations, like walls taken out and beams inserted, these will need to be given the all clear by Building Control. They should be fine with you reinstating what was there. Get them round and discuss it.