jack

Not pure wool you won't!

Actually, it was me cursing the plasterer! I requested, and was assured, that the outlets would be cut just below flush before the plasterer started, so imagine my surprise when I returned home from work to find that he'd just plastered around them! But then, I was also assured by the people that did the plasterboarding that they'd fill the large gaps around some of the outlets before the plasterer started, and they didn't bother with that either (boarders and plasterer were contracted via the same company). Long story why I didn't bother forcing the issue. Surprisingly, the skim finish is perfect around all outlets. To make it clear, I certainly wouldn't recommend this approach, particularly if you're planning to skim (rather than just tape and fill). My point was more that using a multitool to cut off the excess is pretty easy, whenever you do it.

Great post. It's frustrating that the entire building trade is so busy at the moment that even complete numpties and charlatans can make a living off those who don't (and indeed can't) know better.

That's what we did - piece of the proverbial!

Looking good Dave - really clean finish you're achieving!

I somehow missed this awesome post - what an inspiring project! Really great attitude to building.

I know a couple of estate agents (one high-end architectural, another South-East England commuter belt). Both have had instructions pulled since the Brexit vote. The latter had 4 separate instructions pulled on Friday alone. I also know a developer who tells me that several large projects he knows about have either been postponed or canned since Friday. Interestingly, in at least a couple of cases this was achieved by invoking a "Brexit clause" in the contract.

I'm slightly surprised they fought it once you appealed - those objections are rubbish! Well done for seeing it through.

You'll need several loops, but you don't really zone this sort of system (in the sense of setting different operating times and flow temperatures for each zone). That actually makes things a lot easier. I personally just turned the temp right down on the manifold mixing valve and left it to the the ASHP to supply 25 deg C water to the slab as required (I put in a small heating curve so that was a bit higher when it was very cold, but not sure if that really made much difference). My issues were with upstairs heating, specifically in bathrooms. I thought we could do without, but we found it just a little too chilly getting out of the shower over winter. The tiles, in particular, are surprisingly chilly underfoot, as much because they are conductive as due to their actual temperature.

I assume all councils have something similar, but certainly in our case we had to submit a notice of demolition. It's just a formality.

Sounds about right (our place is almost exactly the same size). We briefly looked into it and realised they were basically charging day-rates approaching those of skilled trades. The people that did ours were friends of friends and I think a deal was done.

My parents in law kindly gave us the gift of paying for someone to come in and do a post-build clean. They did a pretty good job, although no-one told them not to scrub the hell out of our oak window frames with heavy duty cleaning products. The frames are now in many places somewhat darker than they started, although it isn't noticeable unless you know what you're looking for. The other thing is that even when the build is finished, residual dust seems to magically appear for weeks afterwards. I have a (completely baseless) theory that it ends up adhering to ceilings and high up on walls. You can't see it, but it's slowly released back into the house over time. Personally I wouldn't have bothered, and would have been annoyed if I'd paid for it out of my own pocket. YMMV.

I believe (but don't know for sure) that Fermacell is another order of magnitude harder to cut.

Sounds about right. I spent part of my youth in Australia, so am pretty familiar with Kevin Wilson and Rodney Rude.

By coincidence, it's a Honda engine, but I haven't looked at the manual. The manual for the mower itself is mainly about health and safety, and recommends a maximum of 15 degrees' slope. I'll have a dig for some info about the engine itself. Thanks

Cost is one factor. Weight and ease of cutting/scoring are others, not to mention momentum and force of habit!

Nice thread title. Kevin Bloody Wilson fan by any chance?

Now you have me worried. I have a new 4-stroke mower and am mowing some very steeply angled sections of lawn (alternating directions each run!). I was a little worried about seizing, but I do tend to worry too much generally, so had convinced myself it's probably fine. I know it's a bit of a "how long's a piece of string" question, but anyone care to hazard a guess at what sort of angles and for how long could cause oil starvation and hence seizing? Will pausing for a few moments on the flat at the end of each run help? I assume making sure it's topped up with oil at all times should help...

I installed a Loxone system with the help of my electrician (an ex-Nokia electronics engineer), and that was probably of similar complexity to KNX. Loxone is arguably a little simpler to install and program than a full KNX system. We managed, but I think I'd have struggled by myself (my education includes an electronics degree, but that's quite a while ago!) Realistically, I think you'll struggle to handle the level of automation you plan without professional help given your lack of technical background. From what I understand about KNX, it'll also be very expensive to get all the gear to do what you want to do (it may not even be possible). On the MVHR/ASHP, check what sort of interface the manufacturers supply. Annoyingly, many of them run proprietary Modbus-type protocols that require you to buy their controllers (which in turn aren't that easy to integrate with a home automation system). Often you can access basic functionality with volt-free contacts - I plan to control my MVHR fan speed using this option. Have a look at Loxone as well. I've been pretty happy with them, although the way they do one or things can make the installation seem expensive (your choice of not including dimming will have a big impact - dimming via Loxone is expensive!) As with all home automation, you're placing yourself at the whim of the manufacturer unless you use an open-source model like Openhab (and they tend to be more complicated and often a lot uglier and less user-friendly to program and use). I'm far from being an expect, but please feel free to contact me offline if you want a chat.

Great stuff. I remember the feeling very well! The build will bring its own stresses, so definitely take a moment to celebrate now!

This makes sense to me. It's worst in areas that will have stayed wet the longest (and we've had some long wet periods since the cladding was installed, for sure!) I'm hoping that things might improve over summer, but will ask the supplier for more info anyway. There might be something that can be painted on to kill mould/fungus (if that's what it is) or to bleach it slightly. Edited to add: from doing a quick bit of research, it appears that initial discolouration is quite common and should fade over time. I'll still check with the supplier though...

I seem to recall that our MVHR was shipped from the warehouse of our supplier's competitor!

We bought a fair bit of Siberian larch from Russwood about 6-9 months ago. I can't remember exactly how much we got, but it was enough to cover a 3.5m high area that extends around three quarters of our 290m2 house. I also can't remember the price (not much help, am I?!), although I do recall there was very little movement on the initial quote. The quality of the wood was excellent - so much better (denser, fewer knots) than the Scottish stuff we got a sample of from another supplier. The one thing I will say is that some of the wood has darkened considerably since it was installed. It almost looks like a surface mould. I've been meaning to get back to them for weeks for advice about whether this is normal, and if not, what we can do about it.

Yes, that's the one. It goes under the ringbeam from the insulation side then up between the upstand and the slab, then over the upstand and down the outside. I was considering at least waterproofing the top surface of the slab, but hadn't thought about liquid DPM (I have half a largish tin of that lying around somewhere actually). Makes sense, thanks.

Nearly all the big ticket items I bought were bought 9-18 mths ago.