marshian

That's almost certainly the case for everyone.

When my neighbour replaced the gutters on her single garage (they are joined to my double length garage) the “handy man” joined the two sections with a wood screw because the gutters were different profiles as well as wood screws holding the gutter to down-pipe join I didn’t know this till later. My garage wall was showing signs of damp so I asked her if I could pop into her garden and check it out. I found this in her down pipe I’m not keen on screws thro plastic pipes as they can catch stuff and lead to blockages…..

Or even one 90 deg to the right and then another 90 deg that can set the angle to whatever is required - good plan it would have to be tight to the wall to stop it being forced apart - depends on how much water is expected?

Quick Google https://www.r-e-a.net/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Boiler-Upgrade-Scheme-Launch-Event-QA.pdf 1. If a customer disconnects from the gas grid, and then a heat pump is installed, then reconnects back to the gas grid (say for cooking purposes) what would happen? 2. Can a gas connection be retained for cooking purposes? Answer: Heat pumps are eligible to be installed in properties on or off the gas grid. A gas connection may be retained or reconnected for cooking purposes. 2. Can a gas connection be retained for cooking purposes? Answer: Heat pumps are eligible to be installed in properties on or off the gas grid. A gas connection may be retained or reconnected for cooking purposes.

I thought that the BUS Grant wasn't impacted by continuing to use gas for cooking?

Alternatively - if you get some solvent weld adhesive and it melts the down pipe fitting you might be able to pie cut a fitting and then solvent weld it??

I'd be gluing a 45 deg bend to the down pipe and then firing up a hot air gun and heating the downpipe just after the bend to make it form to the required 38 deg angle - you are never gonna see it from ground level and the water is going to want to flow along the bottom of the down pipe anyway

When I was doing my suspended ground floor insulation a couple of years ago I was reasonably flexible with thickness - I could use anything from 60 mm to 100 mm it's worth investigating / calculating the cost comparing sizes sometimes there is a sweet spot where it works out you get better price For me 75 mm was a few pence more that 60mm but a significant amount cheaper than 80mm (obviously if you need fixed thicknesses and can't deviate then it doesn't help)

Yeah that’s a little bit more flow than the average rad based gas boiler circuit due to a very low dt (for clarification my usage was based on boiler dt of 5-7 deg c - a flow rate of 0.4 m3 / hr at a WC flow temp of 23 to 32 deg C. My old grundfos pump was 35W at similar flow rates (modern pumps are witchcraft)

70W is a pretty high usage for a modern circulation pump on a gas central heating circuit - mines using 13W 13W x 24 x 180 = 56kWh or £14 It was one of the factors I worked out before going 24/7 on CH The old pump I will grant you was a Watt hungry little sod.......... Imagine if all the houses in the UK adopted modern pumps saving £50 a year - the payback would be under 3 years.............

Hopping on the conversation - does anyone know what the scores are for all aspects of EPC assessment - I've googled a few times and not had a decent hit?

You're thinking shove the WD40 can in the mouth - because yes that would?

No I haven't - can I borrow yours? I don't mind the odd drip

My forum signature in a different place as always “in life you need three things - cable ties, duct tape and WD40 - if it moves when it shouldn’t use cable ties or duct tape - if it doesn’t move and it should use WD40” I am partial to old Opels so it’s pretty normal for those cars

just needs duct tape over the mouth to resolve the noise issue caused by cable ties

Really interesting @JohnMo and prompted me to work mine out - good way of looking it it

I didn't want them to be frightened by the stranger in their nest In hindsight I probably should have reduced the compressed air pressure slightly - I may have nuked the nest a little harder than intended - this made clean up a little longer than I had expected!!!!

I couldn't find anything like that when I had a massive wasp nest in my garage roof - I was up there extending the socket ring main and they really really weren't happy with me being there. I gave it a dose of wasp killer spray and but it only killed the stripey b*stards outside the nest and clearly they weren't happy inside the nest - I couldn't get close enough with a can and lance....... So radical measures required 3m 15mm copper pipe and a suitable plug Obviously I made the plug stripey b*stard friendly Then a decent load of ant powder (Apparently it has same active ingredients in powder format) From a distance of 3 m I lanced the nest and then with a compressed air feed I injected the ant powder - pushed down the pipe by the ear plug Next night it was very silent and I cleared it all up A massive number of lavae were in the nest and the whole lot went in a bin bag and I was able to finish my wiring!!!

I know I have a problem - acknowledging it is half the battle and I agree skinny cuts suck big wang............... I centered the shower controls and ended up with skinny cuts on the window - I spend less time looking at the window than I do at the shower controls - I'm at peace with the world

Now that I find perfectly fine - I think it's the off centre that makes it OK

Sometimes that's exactly what you have to do - call their bluff - it'll get escalated up the food chain and someone who has control of the purse strings will go WTF is going on.

I'd have centered it on a grout line so effectively a small cut out of 4 tiles but as I said it's probably just me Please ignore me

do you not have an external temp sensor (for WC) on your boiler?

It's probably do-able for me - I'll clearly have to bring my own beer (not much cos driving)

Is it just me that has teeth itching looking at that picture? ok yep just me 🙂