nod

I would be inclined to isolate it and replace the fitting Usually less hassle in the long run

Just to add The larger your build the cheaper it is to build per m2 Many of your costs will be the same for a very large house as a they will be for a quite modest home

Pretty sure that your Structual Engineer will specify Block and beam We are in a flood zone and ours have both been BB

I agree I would definitely put Rads in the bedrooms and bathrooms We did that previously and against my wife’s wishes have installed stainless Rads But we will never use them BUT we would of had difficulty selling our previous house without the option I definitely wouldn’t go to the trouble and expense of UFH in bedrooms though UFH isn’t great with carpets Definitely not thick wool carpets that we like

I would really look at your insulation levels We have built a traditional brick and block UFH on the GF We never used the radiators in five year HP and GF UFH this time and we are finding exactly the same The first floor temps pretty much mirror the GF temps Within 1 C Surely the whole point of Self build is to exceed what is available Upgrading your insulation is always money well spent

Fit the Velux window to the opening Then simply fit double nogs to the bottom and top afterwards I personally hate splayed reveals I normally line with ply to square them up slipping the ply to the back of the frame Which allows the PB to slip into the groove on the frame

Looks fine

There talking rubbish What they should have said it’s easier for them to fit with ply lining If you need to fasten anything to the rsj You can shot fire nails or Tek screws

Right 😂

If you want it Hettas signed They won’t accept plasterboard as fireproof Cement board and high temp skim

The two times I’ve contacted the Cil department They’ve been very good and clear If you intend to live in the property are your main residence You qualify for Cil relief I nearly fell off my seat when asked for 48 k within 30 days of breaking ground But sort of see where they are coming from We started our build with 9 months still to run on our previous build

Haven’t read the other answers But no chance I nearly lost ours because I wanted to start both plots Which in there eyes made me a developer

Our previous hearth came out half the distance of this one Around 200 Which was suppled and installed by the stove shop and Hettas certified by them So the diagrams probably just a guide BC will only be interested in the cert

I’ve just done ours and come out 400 from the skirtings

The second time round we’ve purchased two plots I posted pictures long before we had any Interest in buying A member on here who stated he was a planning consultant said It’s a green belt field and my friend who owned it wouldn’t have a cat in hells chance He spent £500 on a planning consult and got pp for two detached houses We later obtained full planning Never say never Especially with this shower that are running the country Farmers inheritance tax My arse Its to free up farmland for building

One of my sons builds (car install) 6x15”

If you like your music You won’t get the low pitch mono without a sub Unless your stuck for space Id alway add at least one sub

I’ll tell our SE he’s wrong 😑

The 5T digger that I borrowed came with forks Dave says Tricky I’d say a nightmare for the inexperienced So handy in the right hands You can hire the forks Also

Meanwhile the roots will draw even more water

Why ?

You need a SE Removing them will make things worse

Who would specify 7n block on a house Certainly not your SE

He must have allowed for something to be built below dpc No need to use 7n blocks