Mike

Is anyone seriously suggesting that biofuels should power commercial aviation? Last I heard most research was going into synthetic fuels that would, in the future, be based on green hydrogen - though that's not going to be cheap.

I can't think of one. Hmm. Home owners have a statutory right to choose their electricity suppliers - I guess that applies to anyone with a grid connection? If so you couldn't require a future buyer to use 'your' electricity supply, but AFAIK there would be nothing to stop you selling the house as being 'off grid'. Though that would certainly limit the number of potential buyers.

Rigid ducting in the standard outside the domestic sector where larger diameters are required to move more air, and where installation is less impeded - there's normally no need to thread it between joists, for example. In regular domestic situations the pros of semi-flexible ducting predominate and the performance differences aren't going to be very significant. Bigger factors are how the intake and exhaust ducts (to and from the MVHR unit from outside) are routed and insulated - keep them short and insulate them well - and the performance of the MVHR unit. The latter needs to take into account both the heat recovery rate (for which the standard way of measuring it is inadequate) and the electrical consumption of the fans (which will be running 24/7 for many years). The reliable resource for selecting those, based on independent real-life testing of both measures, is the PassivHaus database, where Efficiency Ratio = overall performance (heat recovery & electrical consumption). No idea, but there's plenty of information on here on DIY design.

But it has - there's been a massive reduction. The 2025 report (PDF) from the Climate Change Committee includes the latest information on that (pages 10, 29 & 30) Progress to date [on emissions reduction] has been primarily driven by decarbonisation of the electricity system, with renewables replacing both coal and, increasingly, gas. The electricity supply sector has been the key driver of overall emissions reductions and has seen sustained progress over recent years. Emissions in the sector are now 82% lower than in 2008

Based on a suggestion by @Carrerahill from a couple of years ago, I've bought Tridonic GU10 modules (700lm, CRI 92, choice of 12° / 24° / 36° beam angles & 2700K / 3000K / 4000K temperatures) and Faro Fresh downlighters (plaster-in, adjustable angle, anti-glare recessed bulb position). Tridonic do more powerful modules (up to 1,500lm) but, from testing, the 700lm model is more than adequate for me. However they're not smart - they'll be controlled by dimmers (with a set switch-on-brightness + manual dim or brighten); 2 separate circuits in the living room so far but I may divide one to make 3. You also don't get dim-to-warm. That's not a problem for me as I don't like warm lighting (except in an old cottage); 4000K on a dimmer is my ideal.

I wouldn't attempt to do what you're planning either. If the rooms were larger I'd probably spread it over 3 days and, instead of pumping it, I'd shoot it in through the windows and have at least 2 people with muscles to barrow it into place. However as the rooms are smaller I'd probably bring in the materials and mix it on site. I'd have formwork in the doorways and create expansion joints. Either way, shroud the UFCH pipes with lengths of flexible conduit for 250mm or so either side of the junction, so that any movement is isolated from the pipes; if you've missed them out you can slit them lengthwise and clip them over the pipes, then tape up the slit.

Not sure if it's that unpopular at a population level as there was a >15% reduction between 2008 & 2019 in the UK. However the reasons are unlikely to be entirely environmental; the research hints that cost & health concerns may be factors. I'd guess that shrinkflation may be another, since portion size is a key factor behind the reduction.

Reminds me of when I one ordered these mini adhesive pads from a well-known online bay. One single pad arrived stapled to a piece of paper.

It looks promising - similar to stuff I've used in the past - but standards change and I'd want my SE to take a look at it. Otherwise try selling it (or part-exchanging it) to a local gravel company who can screen & resell it.

Remove the wall between garage, which becomes the kitchen (adjacent to the bathroom for ease of services), and bedroom 2, which becomes the dining room. I probable wouldn't do it though.

In some situations I've done similar to @lookseehear, in others (particularly for some odd timber-to-timber junctions) I've used FM330 as you proposed, sometimes with anti-rodent mesh embedded in it.

Because @James of the North is asking about increasing pipe spacing in specific rooms, not 50mm pipe spacing near the manifold (where a somewhat higher temperature would occur).

It's not ethical and probably illegal to leave any behind encased in something else that a future builder won't expect to contain asbestos. Bring in a licensed asbestos removal company to remove them and any remaining adhesive, and to decontaminate the space. Also check out the Control of Asbestos Regulations 2012 & the associated guide, which contains this: NNLW = Notifiable Non-Licensed Work

Or replace the car parking with trees and cut the air temperature by around 4°C: BBC: Plant trees to tackle deadly heatwaves, say experts

Try searching for drive-over LED lighting channel?

So skip the staircase for now and make this phase 1:

Not cheap, but the cost will depend on factors such as the roof structure & how much you want to get involved in the work. But if you want to achieve something like it later, then it's worth developing an overall plan now, rather than making things up as you go.

The temperature will be limited by the water temperature supplied, so it will just reach the maximum temperature of 27 to 29 quicker - it can't go higher than that. No problem; the hot water is still being pushed through the pipes, so the floor will warm up.

Something more radical?

I agree with @JohnMo. You also have problems upstairs. The two bedrooms on the left are small; the upper one due to its dimensions; the lower one because the WC door (and the route between it and the other door) means that, by the time you've added a wardrobe, much of the space will be unusable. The first of these two is also between 2 bathrooms, so deserves some sound-proofing.

It's part of the Microgeneration Installation Standard (my emphasis): 5.8.7 Solar PV modules should not be mounted within 400mm from any edge of a domestic roof unless specific measures are taken to: • Resist the increased wind uplift forces in the edge zone through additional fixings and, where necessary, additional roof timbers for those fixings • Ensure ridge-tiles remain secure • Ensure rainwater run-off patterns are not affected • Ensure build-up and shedding of snow cannot cause injury or property damage • Reduce nuisance from wind noise https://mcscertified.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/MIS-3002_Solar-PV-Systems-V4.0.pdf

Not necessarily not to be liked, but: "When specified correctly the PURe® range can give Uw-Values as low as 0.71 W/m2K for commercial CEN Standard windows" - but are you specifying commercial CEN Standard windows? "PURe® has been tested to relevant UK and European Standards for Shear strength, air permeability, water tightness and wind resistance" - but no mention of thermal testing (nor independent testing), though maybe they forgot to mention it. From https://www.seniorarchitectural.co.uk/architectural-systems/pure-window/ Alu-wood doesn't have to be chunky (and can have lower Uw values - for example https://database.passivehouse.com/en/components/list/window?filter_frame_type=Alu%2CWood%2FAlu&filter_location=GB&sort=u_value)

Flexible conduit is used almost exclusively in Europe, so there's no problem with the concept. However the rule here in France is that they should be no more than 1/3 full by cross-sectional area. In other words, you need a bigger duct or more than one. I'd pull no more than 2 LAN cables though a 25mm duct, for example.

I like the idea, but there was a recent warning over here in France against integrating panels into roofs due to a number of fires., Risk listed included lack of regular checks, faulty electrical connections, and the accumulation of material underneath the panels. The advice was to stick to mounting them on rails so that the tiles act as fire protection. There's a photo of the aftermath of one recent incident here: https://www.revolution-energetique.com/actus/feu-de-panneaux-solaires-le-toit-de-ce-college-est-presque-entierement-detruit/

It's recommended that there should be a supply of unsoftened water in the kitchen - either feeding the kitchen tap, or a separate one like @Nickfromwales provides.