Super_Paulie

afternoon. Is there any particular reason why i couldnt use a central junction location to distribute my phase, neutral and interlink to my smoke alarms? My reasoning being that i would rather not have to remove final flooring in the future to get to the back of the alarms to chain it to a new one, i could have a Wago enclosure or similar in an easy to access location say under a hatch in the landing. So i can get all my new alarms in now in the new side of the house and in the future i could add in new to the existing part without having to pull all the new floors up. BC are happy with my proposed locations to LD3 but i would in the future add more to upgrade to LD2.

rightly or wrongly i did this. Air tight Illbruck foam all round and aluminum tape over the edges. In places in the existing house where i was also limited to 100mm i did the same but with 2 lots of 50mm. If i could go back and pull it all out and replace with deeper joists/PIR then i would, but hindsight is a wonderful thing.

Snake the return up and down under the floor from the rad and use a trv to control the floor temp? Cost you nowt.

Probably, i still have access to the plumbing upstairs. I have the UFH re-joining the main return as the very last tee and the bypass rad the tee before. So I guess the order, from boiler down is UFH, bypass rad, rads. Therein lies the problem I guess, so I could re-jig the above order to get the bypass in as the last in the system if that sorts it.

Gentlemen, thank you, I'm now on board. For what it's worth, the UFH you guys helped me build works an absolute treat. Few little snags to iron out (reverse circulation from the bypass rad) but other than that I am well pleased with how it's turned out and it seemingly costs sod all to run compared to my previous rad only system.

Evening. Looking for an easy to understand explanation here. I've got a 2 port buffer in the loft (along with my combi) on the return to reduce short cycling on my downstairs UFH. It works. When trying to explain it to a friend, I said it was there to add volume to the system so that it always has enough water engaged to not have a too hot return and shut the boiler down. That's correct right? My mate then asked why did I bother lagging the tank if my intention was to get the return temperature down. I had no answer for him, which leads me here to enquire as I've seemingly built something which works but I don't fully understand. Can anyone sum this up for me?

got quite a few Sonoff relays, all work fine but i guess a risk of burning your house down id imagine.

thats up to him, i paid me monies!

guy round the corner from me has dumped a few shovels of concrete down the distance apart of the wheels on his car...

brings back great memories of when i had my kerb dropped by the council to the tune of £1200 if i recall. 2 weeks later here come Virgin Media and totally destroyed it while it was still green. When i complained to the foreman, "dont worry we will fix it", came back to this after work. Note the cement dust still on the gate from the initial work, literally days earlier.

although a bit sloppy, a lot of houses inner leaf look like this because builders dont take the time to tidy it up as it will never be seen. I personally wouldnt worry about it, seems strong enough and is/was tied in to the outer leaf. As for being not symmetrical, yeah that is an issue...

not easy to get confrontational with a builder though, id imagine it would be stressful to the point most wouldnt bother. I guess thats why you pay for a contractor rather than a hairy ars-d builder. If i could go back then thats the route id likely have went down.

I have to say that i did spend a fair amount of time pulling tab ends and cigarette boxes out of my cavity wall. I was getting built to shell so everything was left exposed and yeah, average would be a really at best description.

going off topic i guess but most of my build was "ok from the outside", but look closely and its been like a shoot-out at the OK Corral with a nail gun.

Like a benker spring plunger? Could have the opposite size indent in the head or base to allow rotation. https://www.rosscastors.co.uk/stainless-steel-threaded-ball-spring-plunger-m8.html

its honestly not worth it for a 1930s semi, its not really appropriate as it will mean some major ceiling upheaval and loss of loft space. A "free light" in the shape of a sun tunnel will do the job for us.

yeah, amazing stuff Kelvin. Im not so lucky/rich.

could you not batten it out to the tune of the highest dip, 4mm plywood and then use a dry screed and a flat edge to strike it off?

hes family, so i'll hold him to account but im 100% on his work 👌

if it was a single story or with scaffold id be up there no worries. Not a chance of me hanging onto a gable end these days!

yeah it comes with the flashing just like the normal velux. Thats up to the roofer! But yeah, not a complicated job, few hours tops but i aint going up on no roof.

Looks like that works a treat. I've gone for a rigid 10"er, should arrive this week and I'll report back once I've had my roof guy put the external part in.

i was moved to British Gas by default when the majority of the small-fry went under a few years back. Frankly they have been a shambles since day 1, quite staggering for such a huge company to appear so tin pot.

Count yourself lucky, British Gas were counting my metric units as imperial and my bills were absolutely ridiculous. 2.8x higher than they should have been. Had to spend many hours on the chats with people who had absolutely no idea what I was talking about in the slightest. Eventually it all got sorted but it was just stupid as it's all smart metered and has been for years, no idea what changed.

They are pretty cheap in the scheme of things and the flat velux ones are pretty nice looking. I just hope the 10" one does the job.