wozza

Went on the garage roof today, walked past the boiler flu and saw this: Birds must be hungry.

Thank you Peter, that explains a lot, I was wondering if I needed to convert one to the other or if it was metric vs imperial.

Hi All, Quick question to the experts: What is the difference between these blocks? Why are they measured differently? Block 1 - Thermal Value (at 3% moisture) k = 0.24W/m°C https://www.plasmor.co.uk/uploads/files/Brochures & Data Sheets 2017/Product Data Sheets/Building Blocks Data Sheets/Ultra Lightweight Aggregate Blocks/F127_PDS_FIBOLITE_W03_17.pdf Block 2 - Thermal Conductivity (K Value) 0.25 (int) – 0.27 (ext) W/mK https://www.bpindex.co.uk/res/pdfs/b5c123b13c1df9.pdf Block 1 is measured in W/m°C Block 2 is measured in W/mk Whats the difference, which has better performance? Thanks, Wozza.

Hi All, I am struggling to find some 32mm bore closed cell insulation for my MDPE water pipe to put in the duct where it passes through the floor, anyone got any suggestions? I can only find 35mm bore - would that be ok? or would the air gap between the insulation and the pipe be a problem? I was thinking of cutting discs from 100mm PIR board to fill the duct with a 32mm hole in the centre. Thanks, Wozza.

Another Option https://jk-gb.com/jk-in-ground-ufh.php

Hi Nick, Its just a normal Combi Boiler at the moment that is fed from the stopcock via a 15mm pipe, but for the sake of a few quid I want to upgrade ready if we do change and also to help reduce any future flow issues.

Thanks very much for the advice. I am ok now with the soil pipe - the water main will be refitted as per regs. Thanks Again. Wozza.

These are pictures of the soil pipe that runs through the foundations - it was originally clay but they cut through it when digging the trench. They repaired it with rubber connections (with jubilee clips) and new plastic pipe - it has not been sleeved or protected before they poured the concrete.

Water main (25mm Blue MDPE) is just laid in the trench with the concrete poured on top. Soil pipe is brown plastic and connected either end to existing original clay pipe with rubber connectors as they cut through it when digging.

Russell, could you elaborate please, I need facts / regs to quote to him / building control. What has he done wrong?

Hi All, Came home tonight to find that the builder has laid the new water main in the footings and has then had the concrete poured on top. Is this ok? Is it normal practice and ok within the regs? Also the waste pipe from the main soil stack that passes through the foundation has not been sleeved or protected in any way - is this ok? Thanks, Wozza.

From the connection to the stop cock will probably be about 30 meters Ok, think we will go for 25mm to the stop cock. How much difference would using 22mm from stopcock to the boiler and main run make, then teeing off via 15mm to taps, toilets etc. Nick FW - Yeah doubtful that we will use all the bathrooms at once but just want to try and reduce the effect that running a tap in another room has on the shower. So thinking a bigger pipe would be better?

Hi All, Quick question about new water main to our extension. We currently have ok pressure / flow - it enters the house under the sink via a black pipe around 25mm - it is then reduced via a stop cock that feeds the house. As we are moving the kitchen, we are having a new water main fitted by the builder - this can be whatever size we want. My plan is to replace the 15mm pipe from the stopcock that feeds the house and the boiler with 22mm to give as much flow / pressure as possible as we are having 2 extra bathrooms. Would we benefit from a 32mm pipe from the mains to the stopcock (it may connect to the 25mm black pipe near to the street or should we stick with 25mm? Thanks. Wozza.

Thanks all for your advice, pretty much got it worked out it my head now.

Hi All, Looking for some advice. Builder has started work on our extension today and has suggested that the Kitchen Sink Waste (Also the dishwasher and washing machine) could be piped through the wall and then into a Gully Trap which then is connected to the sewer inspection chamber a few meters away from the house - I am guessing that this is the easiest and cheapest option for the builder. Are there options available so that I could do this internally as swmbo does not like the idea of external pipework - I know that we could have a soil vent pipe but it seems overkill for just the sink dishwasher and washing machine. Any suggestions or alternatives. Thanks, Wozza. Just added the pic below - would this work - the gully trap would be external - the white pipe would then be internal for sink etc?

The Builder who built a neighbours extension told me that they had ordered a UPVC window in the wrong colour and then had it painted to match by a specialist company. Try something like this: https://colourmywindows.com/ Part of the info : Colour My Windows by G I Sykes can re-spray uPVC, Composite and Aluminium doors, including Patio and Bi-Fold Doors. Extending their lifespan, brightening your home and giving you the highest quality finish.

It is a 240v version - taken from installation instructions: iCONstant fans require a 90-264V 50/60Hz supply Bump as I am also interested in this.

My Nan always used the phrase, "Spend a Penny" I have received a few quotes for the extension we are building, one quote that we got reminded me of my Nan and how she always used to say that phrase. The quote is for the ground works and is estimated to take 5 weeks. Now I know that prices have increased, inflation has risen, people have to earn a living, etc but I almost spat out my tea as I read this particular quote. If 3 blokes were on the job and they each pooped twice a day - that would be £8.16 a poop! Wonder what my nan would say to that? A local company has quoted me £22 a week for a construction Portaloo.

Just thinking outside the box, Could the garage be insulated under the block and beams?

If its gurgling when the WM and DW are draining then its probably air being drawn through the trap making the water gurgle. You could try the following: Anti Syphon trap - designed to stop the water being drawn out Mac Valve - uses a "Silicone Valve instead of water Vent the pipework to a soil stack or try a small AAV.

Hi Lizzie, Where is the noise coming from? What type of noise is it? Can you post a video? When the WM and DW draining are they causing the sink waste to gurgle?

Hi All, Looking for some advice on heating our extension – on the plan, the pink area is the new floor and the green area is the existing floor of around 23 square meters. The house was built in 1983, I do not know if the existing floor is insulated, but would assume not. The new floor will be insulated. We would like to install wet UFH, using our existing gas boiler. So far, I have come up with the following options: 1. D 1 Dig up the existing floor and replace with an insulated floor so the whole floor will be insulated and a typical wet system with screed top can be fitted. This will obviously cost – but I can remove the existing floor myself to reduce costs down. 1 2 Leave existing floor as it is, use low profile over boards to fit the UFH – I have seen a system that uses 10mm pipe so it only raises floor height by 15mm, not ideal but not a massive issue.https://www.nu-heat.co.uk/retrofit-ufh/lopro10/ 1 3 Grind channels for the UFH pipe into the new and old floor for the UFC pipe to be fitted. This would mean no increase in floor height, but heat loss through the existing floor https://www.jk-gb.com/ Does anyone have any other options or thoughts on the above? Does anyone know a rough cost to replace the existing floor with an insulated floor? (23 Square meters) There will be quite a lot of kitchen units fitted (including a large peninsular) – I am assuming that the UFH shouldn’t be fitted under the units?

How about some extra long coach screws? Wind them in, then cut the head off - or grind a small flat on them so you can use a spanner to wind them in / out. https://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/coach-screws/cat840476

If you are going by car, its £16 to park if you pay on the day, or £12 if you pre book!

Those discs that PeterW has suggested will cut much better as they are much thinner - be careful when cutting anything galvanised, it is toxic.