Pete

Let me know when WE have made a decision pls Ian!! I am with you on this one as we would have gone with a Sunamp but having doubts now.

I know a guy near me who built a timber frame house and sort of went down the cheap route by buying a timber frame with no exterior membrane on until he fitted it. The wood got completely soaked at times and when he moved into the house it cracked all over the place.

Would I need to put a tee from the heat supply to feed both manifolds in order to do the install correctly?

Anyone? TIA

We have used a Parex render system and we have applied Paragard to seal the render, it is a silicone based liquid that is just a milky liquid that dries clear. You can see the rain just runs off it and does not soak the render and it has PVC render beads at the bottom so hopefully this should overcome the rain bounce. (we hope)

How would this be done with the manifold sited downstairs for the g/f UFH? I am struggling to site an upstairs manifold but have decided to run a loop in the bedroom just in case we need some heat up there. If I need an upstairs manifold then how would this piped, just run two pipes from the d/s manifold to upstairs manifold in order to evacuate the air or could I just put a tee in the loop and put in some auto vents or is this a numpty question? TIA

May be an idea to put a large duct in in case you decide you need an ASHP at a later date if the Sunamp does not work out

@ProDave never moans!! (Well go on then, just a little bit)

I left mine measure with the timber frame company and the window manufacturer. Got them to liaise from the outset and it worked fine.

Whatever you decide to do check and re check your drain and utility points in relation to your slab. I had a discussion about the location of a hidden rainwater gully that came up the middle of our frame, outside the insulation layer, telling the timber frame guy it was positioned wrong. He was adamant it was right and consequently put it in place in some concrete. I re measured when they had gone and removed it. We discussed again next day and he agreed to move it. When frame erected it was bang on where it should have been. We all make mistakes, it is just sometimes some are worse than others.

Do not want to upset Wendy's fashion sense so it must be the recycling

You two are very dedicated. You are not related to the Wombles are you?

+1 to the above

You get good and bad with everything. I have a Senco and absolutely would not be without it. Just bought 20,000 Senco screws off Ebay for £94 delivered so just look out for the bargains.

I have used Wera bits and Erbauer (Impact driver bits) from Screwfix and I find the Erbauer ones last just as long IMO as the Wera for not as much money

I take it the Patten Arms is closed for refurb!!

Has anybody used the hook on drywall beads? I have seen these and wondered if they give you a means of getting everything level without nailing and then once in position secure with a few screws/nails. TIA

That is what BPC recommended for us.

Do you know any of the local fire service, they will blast it for you.

If you get I-------- windows your frame will have done all its moving before they have finished the install!

We had issues with our build and I have had to lower the ceiling in the corridor to run all the ducting down. There was no other way of doing it as the roof above is the roof terrace which splits the house down the middle. We lost 100mm but it is has not made a big difference.

Take your mind off your diet by following @Onoff silicone saga mate

I replaced my broken Bosch impact driver for the new one and could not believe the difference. The new one is so much more powerful and you can adjust the power level. I had to drive 100mm stainless steel screws in to batten the exterior prior to render board and it made it a lot easier than using my Bosch drill/driver IMO. ( I just time the noise out) P.S just don't use it when popmaster is on!

I have similar size house and BPC have just doubled up the ducts to each terminal. I suppose it comes down to cost of materials and how much room you have to run things. As an aside I was pretty naive when I ordered the materials and bought everything from BPC. I have since found out I am possibly two rolls short of ducting and rather than pay for two rolls from BPC I have bought them from Plastics Express which do 75mm ducting. The outside diameter is the same but inside it is 2mm narrower. So I have just bought some couplers and will use a short length (50mm) of the BPC ducting from the plenum box then a coupler and then use the new ducting from there. The difference in the cost of the rolls is over £100!! (Sorry if this is off topic)

OCD is your friend here!