MikeSharp01

Wonder how that works - will have to investigate.

Can they modulate down any further though? Is that not just introducing more heat loss into the house.

That means just unlocking, they can open it - although in the Covid era maybe better of the 'entertainment' does not touch the door handle - no let them open the door, once unlocked, but fit these new fangled Silver Ion coated door handles that kill Covid. Simples!

Not sure why you would do this, it is after all a positive pressure system so the stuff in the air from inside the house will be on the inside of the outlet filter trying to get out, or already out - small enough, and creating a fallout pattern around your exhaust outlet and there is no connection between in an out flows in most MVHR systems, other than across the roof / wall between the external inlet and outlet.

Surely the door is smarter than to make you go around the town to lock it again. I recall having a car, I might still have it somewhere, that you can unlock remotely but if you don't open the door in 10 seconds it locks again so if you accidentally hit the unlock it protects itself and of course you could always hit the lock button!

Rafts tend to have peripheral drainage so working all the time to dry out the makeup below the slab thus reducing the likelihood of water up between the blocks.

Yes I wrote in the "Self Installed with MCS accredited sign of TBA" lets hope that works.

Probably - had not thought that high level - the form does after all cover all the technologies developing less than 50Kw (3Phase)

I am filling out my G99 A-1 form, it is the one that goes to DNO to get permission for connecting your PV supply and there is one question I am struggling with. In the Details of proposed additional Generating Unit(s) it asks for the Technology type. Any one know what technology type they are talking about is it: The cell system - Mono / Poly Crystalline. Is it the inverter type - EG String / with or without compensators / micro inverters. Is it the inverter 'system' IE with / without MPPT. Something else? Any ideas. (PS I know I could pay an installer to do this but I am seeing how far I get without doing that.)

Your right - the controller must be software cored and the interfaces common / industry standard so an accommodating controller seems obvious.

Then it all comes down to rate of delivery for DHW, there are electric combi boilers but the rate they deliver is pitiful - this one delivers 12L/M and needs a three phase supply, we need some massive kit that can deliver 20L/min at 50 deg C. You will have the potential current from the batteries - the average EV is many 10s of KW so not a problem energy wise it is down to getting it into the water fast enough.

Well it must be huge - we did our garden room through Howdens and it came in at 4k including appliances + fitting.

We used AFT (Advanced Foundation Technology) they did all the SE stuff on the slab based on what the structural SE said the loads were. It was not in Scotland but I know they work all over and his design got BC sign off.

Yes that is also an option - as I say if you cannot measure it you cannot control it.

Yep hot air rises so if you control it at the bottom it will affect the top but you probably need both and one right at the top of the house. The slab is the largest mass so controlling its temperature will use a big proportion of energy so you need to be in control of that as if things get out of hand there, heat wise, everything can go pear shaped and comfort on the floor is a key factor. You need one right at the top of the house to manage the accumulation of heat, open / close roof lights etc. Broadly the general rule that: 'if you cannot measure it you cannot control it' is in play here.

MVHR is more than air quality it also recovers heat and if you have the windows open in the winter you might find that feature valuable - unless you have pots of money and don't mind the challenge extra heating give the planet.

That's a long time to hold it in - constipation or what.

Yep, but I may leave it as it adds colour and this thread explains - if @PeterW is baffled then we may need it as evidence.

Nope - that's a bug by the looks of it - I didn't put it there.

How did the sticker get into my post?

Did the tiler keep the outcut - why not just grout it back in and call it a talking point

Can you still get into the floor? I used some lengths of UFH tube back to the plant room and fitted one of THESE DS18B20 probes in each which are; bog standard, very cheap and easy to interface to. (I had to cross calibrate them before I fitted them - I think @Jeremy Harris describes how you do this in one of his blogs.)

There seem to be a load of solutions out there to this. Really to make it most effective you need to have a system that can use the house parameters, decrement delay etc, and then can get ahead of the weather by however many hours you need in all the various circumstances. You can get an API, I have been playing with this one, feed for the weather forecast in your area but just spotting the sunlight and temperature in the right places should do it. We have several south facing windows and I have put temp probe pockets in the slab 1.5m back from the windows so if it starts to get ahead of the UFH I can react to the additional heat coming in either by adjusting the circulation to this zone or take the heat to other zones. I also intend to put a sun sensor on the roof although I could get some of the data about sun from the solar array it is not 360deg. The API is very clever, you could use the hourly rain forecast to close roof lights before it starts raining - when the roof lights close (cows lay down) it is going to rain.

Hi Rob. Two members I am aware of, there are probably others, have Genvex MVHR systems - @Jeremy Harris and @PeterStarck hopefully they will be able to help. I also wonder why you would need to oil a fan, most such systems have life sealed bearings. Most MVHR system have summer bypass modes so you still get the ventilation but don't recover the heat. If you are happy to have open windows then you may get away with turning it off but also if you have an ultra airtight home you may degrade the air quality without the MVHR running and the windows closed.

Will you be using a separator membrane underneath the tiles, in which case the tiles can / should have an expansion gap around the edges? There is no problem with the cuts I can see although is the underlying concrete gets stressed (bent) then it should crack along the cut lines because it is thinnest there - this is not a problem and unless your concrete was reinforced massively this is a natural thing anyway.