MikeSharp01

Given the rate of adoption of electric cars, and the fact there will be no choice in about 10 years I cannot help thinking it wont be long before HMG see the writing on the far to poorly insulated walls about where all the carbon is coming from and set the standard in the right place thus making passive a household name.

Brilliant Terry - a very real energy view of a real house using the novel Willis approach. Also a great example of what good instrumentation can tell you.

It will be interesting to see the overall figures and how the £150 compares to the full total.

Looks like a material change so planning will need to be informed and grant the change, as you are using an architect, very sensible in my view, you will need to pay additional fee for the use of an agent for planning IIRC, assuming they processed the original application.

Very tidy tilling - only one oven - are the others hidden away out sight? Still in these days of lock down who has dinner parties anyway!

We looked at this system, I think they use standard heat pumps, just checked and it is Samsung, and they offer systems with their own cylinders and Samsung heatpump, so the heat pump will be good bit of kit but not sure of the cylinder - hopefully more experience out there in the hub.

Looks like a great challenge - welcome

Sadly this is now a standard political pattern wheeze and is used all over the economy. The help to buy scheme for new homes is another example and we will no doubt see many more flogging along with the green agenda. Don't get me started - back to the build ......

Hi and Welcome to THE forum for self builders - there are few of us in Kent so you are not alone, we are Building in Whitstable, frame now up and coverings going on.

Thanks Guys really helpful @PeterStarck I could go from the inside but would be difficult on the roof and @MarkyP you are right we will be battening over so just fixing down will be the way to got and using washers. Looks like the MARMOX washers and 50mm spax stainless screws @LA3222 will do the trick so will have a play with some of them and see how I go. On the 80mm thick I will need longer screws but same basic approach all good - many thanks.

The time has come to put the PIR insulation, mainly 40mm thick, on the outside of our timber frame and I am looking for the best anchor system? The build up is I-Joist studs and rafters covered in 15mm OSB. The Insulation is on the outside of the sheathing and fixes directly to it. We can put the fixings on the Joist lines but as structural fixings for the cladding need to go on the joist lines I would prefer to use the sheathing as the anchor point for the PIR. The range looks vast - the hammer type anchors look to be for Brick / block substrates will they work into OSB? I have looked at "surelino" but our insulation is 40mm and the minimum looks to be 50mm although the fixing is only 35mm long. Any ideas / advice?

They can both invalidate it pre-decision and revoke the permission post decision if they find the application fraudulent during or after. We had a local issue where a developer claimed to have been living on the site, in what was essentially a tin shed, for the previous 10 years. It got through permission but a previous owner of the land spotted the diggers and wondered why they were clearing the site, investigated and told the council that there was never anybody living there, provided proof - they had owned it until 3 years before and so the council revoked the planning permission.

They can if they find the basis of the original validation was predicated on a falsehood! (IE somebody somewhere didn't tell the truth!)

Wow - he likes tricky detail challenges doesn't he - taking pipes out through the edges of glass and loads more.

I guess it needs to be as that is its reason for being but it does have, differs by country of adoption, some limits elsewhere to stop a person with a a 10 Hectare solar & wind farm building a single skin glass house. Which EU country's regs was the house you worked on aligned to? The N(ZEB) idea has been around since 2010 but the UK has not adopted it - mainly opting out of anything that might upset colleagues in the big housebuilders. You can read the starting point here: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32010L0031&from=EN (Page 17) from there you need pick a country if you want details and Ireland is the easy one as theirs is in English and they are taking it seriously. We (me and my other half) are going for PH with a SAP of over 100 which should meet a theoretical N(ZEB) depending on how you feel about how good SAP actually is as a proxey for engergy efficiencey.

Welcome to THE forum for self builders and other like minded types. I suppose that as long as you have thought through how the ridge will be done, IE which pattern of tile, or neither, will be the ridge be and how will it sit on the different tiles, and also assuming that there are no conservation area issues you should get away with it.

Welcome to THE forum. You are indeed in for one hell of a ride but the rewards, not the least of which is being part of this community, mostly outweigh the low points.

Welcome to THE forum. Those jumping jack compactors are really for trench bottoms, they compact a very narrow strip. You can use them all over but they are hard to control unless until you get into practice, have you started it up? As long as you don't set it too jump to high you should be fine but it will take longer that the type @ProDave is exhibiting above.

Welcome to THE Forum for self builders and like minded individuals.

Don't forget to look at the COP curve as you want best COP for the majority of your needs so trying to max out the COP for average heating day seems like a good approach to me. So although an 8.5Kw unit has stacks of grunt (Units not determinable) when you need it how much COP will it be (Pardon the pun) when running at 3Kw? Which it perhaps will be most of the time.

Across the floor or in a groove cut for it? Best is to put 20mm conduit through then you can pull individual 2.5mm cables in. The radius depends on how big for a 13A spur probably 40mm in SWA @ 2.5mm. Are you extending the ring or running a spur - you will need to approach them differently from a wiring regs point of view. With a spur I would fit a switched fuse local to the socket the cable is coming from on the ring, although not a requirement - you do have to match the current capacity of the protection device on the ring with the cable and 2.5mm SWA is rated at 36A or there abouts, its just another layer of protection as you don't have the two way loop of the ring to handle sudden high currents when someone later wires a whole load of other sockets of the one you are fitting! PS Welcome to THE forum.

The 45 degree rule & right to light is much discussed here so you should find some support. I think we turned it over last week: Have a look here:

Don't worry we all have our crosses to bear.

Welcome to the Forum for self builders, renovators and like minded individuals. Sewage treatment is well covered here but we do not have a separate section for old house renovation, perhaps we should? In the meantime you can tag things as you post them so people can find them. With over 5000 members there must be loads out their with similar interests.

I find fixing stuff to PB is such a pain that I need some sort of pattress to fix to.