MikeSharp01

FOI, as @Ferdinand says, direct to the planners - otherwise you could be in for a very long haul.

So what does that mean for the seals around my joints - I thought the water test was used only if air test failed. I just re read PART H and the test has to be carried out after it is covered up so how does the BCO check the fall - I cannot imagine they want to make two trips? Mike

But that was then - now we have political science - which must be far lower than stamp collecting.

I didn't think you could have molecules of oxygen only atoms. A molecule being a collection of atoms which must by definition be bigger than any single atom but I guess it might depend on the number of shells so a pair of tightly bound low electron count atoms as a molecule might be smaller than a ganging atom with a high shell / electron count.

I have Sthil system and the chain saw is very useful on the end of the 3m extension pole. The hedge Trimmer is great and the Strimmer works better than my Riobi.

Yes I can for each of the two runs. I guess I will be able to see the leak. I have done 2 joints in straight pipe they are stable and fine so now it's the clever bits at the ends. One of which is one of those universal bends with two sliding collars. I have done the nuts up but I am never sure of them.

Floplast for the fittings and Marley for the pipe although some of the pipe is not branded. Came from drainage direct I think. Anyway have checked the test gear and no leaks so now I am going to test each joint and find the offending one. Although the sun is out now so getting it stable will be interesting.

Good point I will check that but did you mean 5PSI as this is more than my manometer can handle I think max I can do is +/- 30mb about 0.9PSI I think.

I gave just spent an hour or so playing with our underground pipe runs to see how well they are sealed. They are all still exposed so I can remedy things and it's overcast here so I should have stable temperatures. I am struggling to get a air pressure test to pass well, the pressure drops down to almost the lower limit on the 15 minute window and it can only be the joint seals. I used the flopast lube on every join and checked for scratches on the pipe. There must be a way to get a good seal on these things or are they designed to only just pass the air pressure test? Any thought anyone.

Yes so I have bases both sides so can be Kentish man and man of Kent although I was born West of Rainham mark, in Surrey. (For those not familier with these terms see HERE.)

And some might say that life at the bath manufacturers would have been extinct as long as the dinosaurs by the time it first sees any water, but I, as your Kentish compadre, could not possibly comment.

I think you can get much bigger than 90mm I have a 105mm skulling about somewhere.

Makes Perfect sense now you describe it. At 100mm I was using about 200m per zone (3 zones) at 200mm I am using 300m for the whole 105m2 so cheaper as well.

Anybody got any ideas on the spacing between UFH pipes. Our slab is 150mm thick and I was going 300mm grid but I notice that 200mm is more usual in 16mm pipe? Also I see that for an ASHP driven system a 100mm spacing is recommended!

Not sure I like the new name. Will their nuclear reactors and trains get rebranded as well I wonder. I am reminded of the 'not the nine o'clock news' "okikoki cabouki 2000'.

Ratoons thow hast spotted the flaw in my discourse. I will send myself back to go without collecting £200 or using it to make a planning application.

Me thinks the dragon snoozeth@

Don't worry, if some people get their way, we will soon be a very different country and then it will be a free for all, well not quite free but nonetheless open to those who can pay to oil wheels.

I appreciate that it is no help to you but my wife's got one of those but I still find ways of leaving the jobs around the house un done.???

It is hard to be omni competent though so sometimes you have to rely on others. Although on reflection I allow other people to run the country and I recon they would give even the most awful tradesperson a run for your money against the criteria you describe.

Amazing. We need more ideas. Love the screw pile concept, when you move out you unscrew the piles and it's as if it were never there. Now just imagine a power grid you could connect to with a screw pile and water to.....

Ours is just over a year old now and it is looking good. The two or three tiny imperfections on the floor described above have all but disappeared and they don't show up unless you are looking for them. We have no white coating like you describe. Ours is usually coated in mud, as we use the space as a site hut, but when it dries I just brush it off and it looks as good as it did a few days after the pour. MOH is happy with the finish so we will do the same for the main house only this time densify / seal as you suggest to get the shinyer surface. Ours is RC25/30 so no more waterproof than that. Not sure I can be of any more help about the white stuff still emerging from your slab. One thing I have noticed is how optimistic I was about timing. "A few months behind" - my eyes how nieve was / am I.

Here are a couple of snaps of our block house before we demolished the old house. The front has gas an electric meters and the back has electric distribution (to the house / garden room / garden / lighting and car charger point) and the comm cabinet with the phone line in with wired router and alarm system.

Will share a photo when I get back home tonight. You will have to pay a standing charge unless you disconnect the gas. Which you could do once it is moved as all they do I believe is seal it so no gas is available and then you won't pay the standing charge but if anyone wants it back they will have to pay a connection fee. Also if your gas only comes to the block house anybody wanting the gas to the house will have to run the gas pipe into the house which might not be simple.

By way of ways forward what we did was build a simple block structure at the front of the plot, by the road, and we got all the services diverted to there and then we have full control of ducting to the main house and the garden room. We have all four connections there in their own boxes.