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MikeSharp01

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Everything posted by MikeSharp01

  1. MikeSharp01
    There you go thinking in straight lines again! If they put it where it needs to go why do they make you uncover it? Is it about size or could it be, for instance, to give the freedom to go elsewhere or, as on our kitchen sink, to have an addional tap for filtered water.
  2. MikeSharp01
    If the hole is basically pre formed with only a glaze skin over the hole then the Chisle method has merit but of course the hole has then to go where put by manufacturer.
  3. MikeSharp01
    One small hole with ceramic drill bit then use a diamond abrafile to cut the hole. IF there are any weaknesses in the manufacturing the Chisle method will find them spectacularly. The Diamond saw method is so much lower energy and controllable.
  4. MikeSharp01
    Welcome to THE forum.
  5. MikeSharp01
    Was it ever thus - one can imagine the flint nappers of the stone age when confronted with the bronze wielding hoards blindly carrying on napping flint while the world moved on.
  6. MikeSharp01
    Not happy about the WC then?
  7. MikeSharp01
    You could fool the eye and perhaps add a little dry storage by putting a narrow pull out larder next to a 60cm fridge. Everything you need in one place.
  8. MikeSharp01
    Ours is a NEFF too and we think its great it can be every type of oven (fan / upper / lower etc) and a pretty clever microwave as well it does not have a rotating plate it swirls the MWaves around at the top, you can use metal utensils in it and it will grill as well. Its only limitation is size anything bigger than a large chicken and its stuffed. PS its the previous version of this one: https://www.johnlewis.com/neff-c17mr02n0b-built-in-combination-microwave-oven-stainless-steel/p1937166
  9. MikeSharp01
    I don't actually know is the easy answer as the drawing says I need 380m of 16mm and I have brought 400m so I am hopeful that I will have enough for the sensors otherwise I will just use HEP2 (10mm or some such) to place the sensors. I have 10 sensors and they are all calibrating on the desk beside me as I type they are all reading 26.18 +/- 0.12 as the temp of the room, the room thermometer says it 25.4 I guess I need the temperature calibrator out! Once I get my WEMOS board up and running I will do some graphing.
  10. MikeSharp01
    You definition of loads is? As I may have a use.
  11. MikeSharp01
    Are you out there Terry? Just got sorted on the sensors and the Wemos D1 Pro board is on its way, which Arduino IDE / bolt on do I need?
  12. MikeSharp01
    Yes I guess so, I was going to use your Pex-Al-Pex idea and go straight (line) to the sensor points, so I can pull them out for replacements etc, I will fix the runs to the upper R193 mesh.
  13. MikeSharp01
    Just planning my sensor locations and after going through all the treads here have come up with my plan. I will have four sensors across / in the slab. The slab has three UFH zones two which get full sun via the windows and one, at the north end, which does not. I plan to monitor the surface temperatures in the three zones, basic layout as attached, and have a fourth sensor in a no UFH area under one of the internal walls which itself is out of the reach of the sun. Another four sensors will monitor the main flow and each return UFH temperature. There are also several air temperature sensors in the scheme to control the UFH and the summer ventilation strategy with the roof vents. I think this layout will give me enough telemetry to enable me to play with things around detecting solar gain happening at the front of the building while also having control of the heating via the under wall / air temperature sensors as @JSHarris suggests. Have I got my locations right I wonder? Air temps can go in later with the frame build but the slab pour must go ahead in 10 days time.
  14. MikeSharp01
    Probably cos they would be in the insulated part of the building, If cold roof then its a better idea I guess, you can get to them but the standard connectors / cables probably won't run that far.
  15. MikeSharp01
    Someone told me that the trick with Howdens is to get the quote from them for everything you want then sit back and wait for one of their deals to kick in that brings the price down that bit more. It would have worked as we should have done that for the garden room kitchen but took too long deciding if we really wanted the style when the offer was active. (You need an account so you get the offers)
  16. MikeSharp01
    I have access to one - I spend a day a week on it. It belongs to a very old friend who cannot use it any longer so I go and help him out.
  17. MikeSharp01
    Ok PM me when you are ready to send the oak over and we will take it from there.
  18. MikeSharp01
    Here is a celebration breadboard I did this week but cocked up the clamping and on the last cut it moved, pain in the butt, its 295 diameter, - will do another shortly. (The 130 is their total lifespan)
  19. MikeSharp01
    The picture you gave is fine for the fly, the machine will scan it, and for the text just let me know the font.
  20. MikeSharp01
    I can do it if you want Jeremy.
  21. MikeSharp01
    Welcome, some of us are a bit uncouth but entirely well meaning, and always keen to do the right thing, if a little long windedly at times.
  22. MikeSharp01
    Not the batty bats of Farnham surely.
  23. MikeSharp01
    Welcome to THE forum. Sounds like a great project. Looking foward to hearing all about it.
  24. MikeSharp01
    Sorry - my bad. Not sure why I used 11m.
  25. MikeSharp01
    You will need intermediate chambers as you can only go 11m (IIRC) between chambers so maybe thats what the architect was thinking as these chambers will have covers and perhaps you won't want them in some places, eg the middle of a lawn!
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