MikeSharp01

Ok now I see, thanks, I have not run any numbers but the whole thing looks very marginal as things stand although it does give directional thinking in terms of increasing (could be decreasing depending on how you look at it) the weight of renewable energy and decreasing the weight of gas - hence the general feeling on here that installing gas heating - even for domestic hot water (DHW) is depreciated.

Penetrations are relatively minor thermal concerns - we have 3 x 110mm and 16 70mm ducts coming up through ours and that represents about 0.1% of the slab area. All are closely sealed through the EPS insulation so only the plastic of the pipe / duct and the cables / pipes in the ducts will conduct heat while the air in the them will convect you can reduce this in the ducts (not the pipes) with effective sealing. They all run through ground under the slab so are not subject to air temperatures like walls would be albeit that they will be at a lower temperature than the slab so the temp delta probably won't get much above 15 degrees. I think that all means you need not worry.

Is this in relation to domestic properties or landlords requirements?

Did you mean to add "via the ASHP" Peter as a Willis type arrangement is also possible on E7?

Yes but there are catches. We did our garden room as a passive slab to experiment for the house slab. I laid the type 1 and pea shingleI, I made up the EPS elements in line with a design.I had seen some where and we poured the concrete and polished it. For the house we did almost the same but this time we needed the structural design and to get that we purchased the design and slab EPS components. We then laid the type 1 the pea shingle, put down the EPS former, installed the dampmproof membrian, the mesh, the UFH and poured the concrete.

Same with ours.

Don't forget that a lot of the components you are likely to be using are not 19" rack ready so you will probably need some shallower DIN rail panels for home automation / IoT stuff as well as the 19" rack. On the 19" rack you may well find that you do not need the full depth as you probably won't be fitting full depth routers / switches etc. The only really deep thing might be the UPS and you don't need 19" for a patch panel although I agree this is an industrial standard even they don't need it. +1 to ventilation.

Welcome to THE forum for self builders. How is the weather in Toronto today?

I will get a pic tomorrow but it's two bits of OSB for the sides two bits of broom handle for the rolls. I went for two rails as I could Make it narrower and the pull angle was less. The two rows of drums are one above the other.

What proportion of a kings ransom did you pay for it - may I ask?

I don't know how much cable you will need but I do know you need a cable drum frame. I made one that could hold 10 drums. Put it in the room where the wiring centre/ cònsumer unit is then pull the cables off the drums and out to their end points. I could run 2 or three runs of the same guage cable so, when I used it, I had a few drums of each. Although this did leave me with some ends of drums. It was much quicker than pulling one at a time. The only one I didn't do that with was the CAT6 for that it comes in boxes with a pull hole and you just pull it out of the box.

That's an interesting link.

We are using polyurethane adhesives in various places on our frame, while it is not being used structurally, mostly gap filling / joining insulation boards, I was wondering how it's structure gets damaged by UV exposure. I dimly recall from sleepy materials science lectures about 40 years back that surface changes of plastics resulting from various sources can penetrate beyond the skin although I cannot recall the process. Does this happen in PU adhesives or are the UV degradation effects limited to the outer surface? Any ideas?

Our plot was not expensive well under 150k including on costs. I do tend to agree with @PeterStarck that working it out this way is misleading but then most approaches are a bit wonky. VFM is very hard to work out as it is mostly a perception thing controlled by where you stand - literally, so I won't tile our roof and walls because I have a fear of heights so the roofer VFM is going to be high almost no matter what it costs if you get my drift. Also in our case the relative cost of the Architects is good VFM as neither of us are great with aesthetic challenges and we wanted a stand out design.

Perhaps I should add that the Architects bill will be about 7% of the cost total build cost (ex land) They took us through design all the way through planning and as far as building control we are on hourly rate now but so far have used 0 hours!

We included demolition of existing building and we are working on an all up cost - including land of about 1600m2 and ex land ( with derilict old house) of about 1000m2 We have 196m2 of build including the garden room. We had services but had to pay for new gas connection- which we probably won't need and to divert the electric supply. We are doing about 80% of the work ourselves.

Is the implication that 'lived can have different interpretations for each of you? IE I have lived here 20 years but you were asleep for the first 10 so you have only lived here for 10 years.

Make sure you put the patresses in and that you know where they are and then just wait until you really need them. IE fit them about 24 hours before you would have fallen over for the first time were they not there.

This is a Venn diagram problem where th two circles overlap mostly but there are areas of no overlap. As I see it one area where there is little overlap is the Aesthetic training the Architects get which is not in the architectural technicians curriculum to anything like the same extent. This means that if you want anything more than a box with windows you probably need an architect if you know exactly what you want then an architectural technician will do it without challenging you to try other, in terms, 'better looking / proportional / composed' designs. On the reverse of the diagram is our experiance that Architects don't do money so probably won't provide a design to a budget unless you are very lucky.

Good idea - I will be running the ASHP connection pipework through and along inside the wall, suitably separated, insulation and bring them through the air tight membrian in the plant room I guess I could do the same with the feeds, and drains, upstairs.

A few days back I dimly recall you discussing taking a chilled water feed from your ASHP to provide upstairs summer cooling via the MVHR just to push the upstairs temp down a little on the hottest days. So not full AC but a contribution to cooling would you recommend this where you have a reversible ASHP.

Sounds like a plan.

You need a solid backing.. if the board is less than 12mm I would use two layers unless the studs are a lot less than 400mm centres.

Welcome to THE forum for self builders. In Glasgow recently and there again soon - sounds like a perfect spot.

Done it thanks both got it apart with a hacksaw on rusty bolts just back from getting cistern no B&Q local but there was a diddy little plumbers merchant. will fit after lunch.