Tosh

If you wanted to convert it back to residential then you'd need a change of use first which, without being in place, would probably scare most propestive domestic purchasers away. You say it would not be commercially viable but have you tested that i.e. advertised it as a business for sale etc. I'm anticpating the planners may want to see that before permitting a change of use but best to talk to them. A pre-app may give you some pointers.

if you're coming halfway up the slab I would've thought a few holes and some rebar to tie existing foundation and slab to new pour.

tend to agree, my experience with wood burners is trickle events just don't allow enough supply air. Just opening the window slightly usually provides a near instant combustion improvement and kindoff proves the point. Something to think about if you're not having the fire lit much is whether there's a risk of mice in the floor void deciding to nest in the pipe? If so how will you provide a louvre or the like to prevent that?

A drain at that height behind the wall sat on pea gravel will do next to nothing. The water would have to be 450mm deep before it can make use of the land drain, you might catch a bit of surface water draining from the top but water will always take the esiest route which will be past your drain, through the gravel and continue sitting on your foundation. What about lifting the level up with concrete, then allow for pea gravel to bed your pipe on then membrane to stop all the mud blocking it up, reinstate gravel, wrap with membrance and fill with soil - plenty of pics on tinternet. Your puddle in front of the wall - is that just where you dig out for foundation? would not reinstating with concrete sort that out?

You can get these as well https://www.southernsheeting.co.uk/perforated-closure-trim-ew1im.html?infinity=ict2~net~gaw~cmp~21101839195~ag~~ar~~kw~~mt~~acr~3674732697&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAgoq7BhBxEiwAVcW0LFI8eyXq9_6uDl014PtvtJ7qFV31XMfKguJE-vRY817PHC_OGLK9iBoCGCIQAvD_BwE#240=427 The soffit mesh looks good as well. But I used perforated sheets and cut them to my own length/width to suit, can't remember exact spec of gauge/hole size but stainlees and along these lines https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/mesh/perforated-metal?via_sb=true Whichever you choose I would look for something with some rigidity to it otherwise it will sag between fixings and also if its too light a guage the fixings like screws will dmage it hence why some have used staples.

Don't think there's any requirement to box in, just need to maintain distance to combustibles. I think you can get the aesthetics for the firestop and vent like so

or these https://www.google.com/search?q=dura+flash+flue&oq=dura+flash+flue&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg8MgYIAhBFGDzSAQoyMzk0NGowajE1qAIIsAIB&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Dektite grommets for the external seal, as bove. Red and black rated for different temperatures I believe, red is higher. Between floors https://flexibleflueliners.com/product/ventilated-fire-stop-plate-150mm-black-kw-pro/?campaignid=21800739722&adgroupid=170161215993&keyword=&device=c&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsoe5BhDiARIsAOXVoUtXOpIrQ9KMOILyf_RY0p1j_2_D0fXFubmpHBBOahnBZD0bY_YNHKEaAq2TEALw_wcB

I'd be inclined to contact your local fire officer, they're usually very helpful.

We have Norrsken, supply only. We found the price mid range, most things become a balance of quality v cost but we've been really happy with them, well mostly. The timber and alu clad were beautifully finished, the hinge mechanisms lovely and smooth in operation. Pre-sales were very helpful, communications up to and including delivery really good. Not so good - The window handles are cheap. The moulded plastic coating has broke on one of them already. I can't remember if they offered the option but I'd go for something more robust. Installation support, typical drawings, etc were non existent. I really had to push to get information and what I got was very, very basic. This wasn't a big issue for us personally but may be for others. Would I choose them again, absolutely.

I don't think there's any need to leave it at 6bar, it's really just to test the joints above their normal operating pressure. I dropped ours down to 1.5 bar when they poured the screed and just monitored it. It went up to 4bar shortly after pour then dropped back down to 1.5 after a few days if I recall.

Yes I have it Russ, plus the stapler as well If passing anywhere near Hereford can meet up or post.

Lol, too late in life for that...

Likewise, I prefer to keep the wood fresh looking.

Be aware that this will still silver. Vastern have weathered panels on display outside.

I used Plasson throughout our 32mm supply, sourced via JDP as well. That Plasson stoptap in your picture has been in my plant room under 10-12bar pressure for over 2 yrs and no issues.

If you're set on buying from abroad then some of the Polish manufacturers may be worth a look, debesto, fenbro, etc. Debesto certainly have a wider range of brands.

I had some samples of Ayous, thermally modified, and liked the look of it but wow is it brittle and it also marked very easily. The grain pattern didn't really suit the look we were after in the end but that's a personal thing. It was a reasonbale price circa £6.50/lm if I recall. We ended up going for cladding from Norclad. Its A+ GRADE Brunnea treated Redwood, very few knots. And as its treated it's not as brittle as some of the thermally modified stuff. I'm sure there's some info on Norclad site about additional fire treatment as well. Note Norclad are part of Arnold Laver now who are in turn under the National Timber Group. The reason I mention this is if you wanted to use Norclad then your BM may have accounts with AL and/or NTG so you might be able to negotiate a better deal.

Hammer tacker

Similar to others we just used 35mm metal boxes, which work nice with 25mm batten and 12.5 pb, screwed to webs.

The expanding tape is amazing stuff, often with a price to match! By the time we're finished I wouldn't be surprsied if we've spent £5-600 on compriband, foam, etc around our doors/windows. How will you apply this very wide tape into a small gap and press it onto the frame? We had mostly 10mm gaps and I found even a 20mm deep tape to be quite fiddly to install, but then the reveals on ours are very deep which didn't help. I found a scrap piece of thin, soft metal that I bent to shape to help press it home against the frame.

Couldn't you use a narrower compriband tape and make the difference up with air tight expanding foam? Both more readily available......and possibly cheaper.

We purchased Norrsken. Very pleased with the quality of the windows/doors themselves. Though I am slightly disappointed with the window handles, broken one within 2 wks of fitting them already. Admittedly only a tenner or so to replace but then maybe that says it all. We only found out they were cheapos afterwards. Would've liked to have been given the option to specifiy better quality. Despite this would I buy Norrsken again, yes definitely. I would highly recommend you visit some showrooms, it really gives you a good sense of the difference in appearance, quality of the products.

Whats underneath may be the issue e.g. soft spot. Not clear but looks like a 6mm wearing course, what did they lay it onto e.g. existing tarmac, stone, etc? What prep did they do? 6mm top coat really needs a good bitmac subbase e.g. 40-50mm of 20mm bitmac otherwise it will just shift around, especially in warm weather and wheel scrubbing. Or if its going on existing tarmac then a coat of bitumen emulsion to make the two bond together. Or possibly had the wacker in one place for too long and over wacker'd it in that one place to remove some of the lines, or a lump maybe and its just showing more prominent now? Steep drives are problematic to tarmac - on one hand you want good consolidation which you need a roller for but on the other hand the roller tends to push the tarmac down the slope creating lumps n bumps. Wackers are ok for doing the edges and tight spots but I wouldn't recommend them to consolidate something you're going to drive on. A single bowl walk behind roller may have been a better option. Could be a number of reasons but usually the problem is in the sub base/prep. Do you have any pictures of before it was done?

Hi @Marvin yes just a single unit (their options below). Yes the light blue is the MVHR unit. Green is supply manifold. Red extract manifold. TBH I'm more geared to other units atm but thats another story. However I'm still trying to get my head around these units of circa 600 m3/h and the calculations in my spreadsheet which would indicate a unit of circa 260m3/h?