zoothorn

Assuming this insulated PB is suitable (??) can you tell me how to cut it correctly. Ive tried a stanley knife/ 4 new blade s & the PB seems cut ok.. maybe (?) but the polystyrene just crumbles a bit so the edge structure under the fairly frail anyway PB edge is compromised > then add the pressure of a screw just 2cm off edge right to flush.. & as it now has less structure below to press down onto, the edge bows down then splits. If the screws are left protruded, say just before the head touches the surface, this is the last point the PB is happy. One turn further & the edge starts to bends down. 2 turns = head a mite countersunk, the bend increaces. 3 turns = head 1mm protruded/ 1mm in, the bend is so much as to be a 'bruise' & edge almost splitting. 4 turns & flush = bend turns into dmg/ cracked edge, the now 2" dip around pronounced. Head just below surface = edge starts to disintegrate/ badly damage. Is damaging the PB edges/ where the screws go in- normal?.. is that just par for the course & you just crack on? I am assuming not.

I'll post a pic in a few hrs once batts charged. But its just a mess of ripped off panels. At least the 4 insides are clean/ I just managed to scrape off the residue before it set.. so no dmage to these. I started 2pm > 10pm. A whole day flat out. I cannot believe the results after so much careful prep. Its not a Q of me just not being for it. Its just a Q of not having the right things to do the job. These screws into this PB, via this drill bit simply do not work. I use my makita on a dialy basis for my work, screws/ wood etc, I know exactly how carefully/ gently it can be used. If I cant get one screw in w'out damaging the board, as slowly as possible.. then its not me/ or the makita, its the 3 components I'm using. It seems the screws/ drill bit/ PB you used are not the same as mine here. Same in principle, but not the same items. If I start again, which I will have to- I can't get a builder in now/ & I can't leave this kitchen as it is- I need to go right back to sq1 & get the right things for the job, or find out a way to use what I have in some sort of "compromised" way.

I had all the braces to hand & some, for the btm to top.. I thought the sides would be pressed in enough didn't need/ as per your eg's (not easy to have both braces t/btm + side to side logistically). But the sides needed them the most, so I wasn't ready. Thats a minor thing tho. I think the only way i can do this job is to use -just- the 2 board (tapered godammit) edges, which has a paper edge which seems to give it more rigidity than a cut edge. The non- papered edges aren't possible to be used, with screws. 100% not with this terrible PB (the worst thing: this leaves me SO concerned about the main PB's, which I have to cut in many places & somehow fix together with screws at even farther peripheries, which will split the whole edges putting in the screws- I can't see how this main PB job is possible at all now.. apart from to leave ALL screws protruded 1mm). That's wasting most of the sheet for just 2 paper-edged sections for the reveal. The tests i did with scrap were on a tapered edge, which I didnt realise had totally different properties to a cut edge. I don't even know what to cut this stuff with. Ive used a stanley knife, going over & over as carefully as possible for 15 mins until Im through.. then carefully trying to cut the polystyrene below, but this just crumbles. A dreadful mess. I don't know what to do. So the only way i can add these reveal sections, is to just glue them/ no screws. If this is possible at all (an infuriating waste of £25 if so). If its not possible/ not sufficient, then I cannot do this reveal at all. But this is holding up eveything else.. & i have another window to do too. Ive wasted 1/2 a sheet on theis mess so far.. so would need another £25 sheet to do the other damn window. £50+ wasted in one a'noon. I cannot afford this.

Onoff its a total disaster. Had to rip off all 4 sections/ scrape off the glue. whole a'noon's work down the drain. The combination of materials, ones that I have here, are not up to par to be able to do this job. Absolutely not. I get the foam onto the 4 sides & get them in.. but the sides' back bits start to push out (but Ive nothing ready to brace across.. so I need both braces across, & braces up/down then). So I have no choice but to start screwing in the fronts. I'd marked the exact screw positions/ spacings ready. I tested the screws into scrap 1st. But when it comes to driving in the screws.. as carefully as possible to the correct D (either flush, or say 1mm max sunk into the PB) the PB breaks or 'bruises' into a 2" dip around the screw head, on every single one I tried. So the front edges are all broken, or the screws' heads are protruding 1mm. Its bc the poly &/ or the PB is just too soft.. when you drive a screw in, the PB just squashes down. Too much. When you try as slowly as poss to get the screw down flush.. the PB edge bows down.. then breaks. Every time. Its not possible to do even one screw flush. But what could I do? so I continued 30 or so in main spots (not a single one good) then bailed out pronto/ not acceptable whatsoever/ had to rip off the whole thing in bits. The mess & dust.. & stress of this. I had no idea the foam had already set well so removing has taken most of the last hr. A disaster. Why are there 2 bits in this pack? is there a difference between them, or is one a spare-? its either these, the screws, or the PB or the combination..but believe me: the job cannot be done as it is. These damn 60mm screws cost me £25!!

This ins PB stuff doesn't look anything like yours.. the polystyrene's the cheapest/ lightest stuff you find/ dreadful cr*p.. & just tacked onto the PB & easily separates.. but I can't wait/ re-order as other places dont have it or I have to order it from s'where/ another week min. I just have to go with it. Pg11- thanks i'll note that like pg6 Im trying to follow, very badly I'm afraid so far. Maybe the C'tex job will give me some mojo.. if I can do this tonight.

There's no gap at all in fact.. Im struggling to get the sod in so it doesn't protrude.. the sill's so out of kilter a to b to c, as it was, its a n'mare to the cut the shape right, then the poly edges crumble away. Im very concerned about sticking this awful polystyrene stuff to plaster in the reveal sides/ top, & onto mortar sill (crumbling too.. seems I did too thin). Im just desperate to get these 4 things on before end of night now.

Not impressed with TP insulated PB. No idea it was tapered edge. & the piece for the sill I spent ages on is rubbish quality/ the whole polyS is separating from the PB/ had to scrap & do again, but not cut as good as my 1st.. so need to do 3rd time. Whole a'noon just cutting these 4 sections just to fit let alone to start glue in. Gun cleaner.. how does this work.. some sort of red thing hanging off.. & the black '+' top- do I remove this? I've got mild panic coming on now things aren't coming up to par. JesusH.

I know- batts dead alas/ on charge (old school slr/ aa's). Once stanley knife cut, polyS edges are just rough/ uneven. It'll have to do onoff. Ok once Ive LE foamed the back of 4 pieces, & wedged in (looks so-so/ will put in shims to tighten up @ side tops).. 1) am I LE foaming the back 30mm edges > window frame? & 2) for screwing in (@ my 10cm intervals all round front edge).. do I pilot hole for each screw thru pb/ batten?

I've cut the 4 insulated sill panels ~ok.. going over your pg6 stuff again/ just noticed the cupboards Q: may have to put a noggin or 2 in before the reveal sections. You see how things you've kindly said ping out -only- once I'm actually on the job in Q.. that's just a total newbie. The Ins PB isn't great quality- 2 sections separating at one edge, so I hope whatever is gluing the PB to the polystyrene won't fail over time/ not giving me huge reasurrance tbh. Anyway whether or not tapered was meant to be (for the 1x insulated reveal PB) its cut now.. so has dips @ sill sides, top sides & side panels twds top/ hope they won't look shoddy. The polyS didn't cut well at all/ rough edges even using much as much precision as I could with a new knife blade.

Yes.. blimey this job might put pay to my considering that whopper job, but let's see how it goes. Just had the C'tex (both sides foiled/ good) & the 1x ins PB.. but its tapered edge.. the tapers along the long edge too. Is that the wrong stuff?

Got them in hse longways, helped by friendly Jewson guy.. so great I can rtn that whatnot.. until he promptly ripped it open to show me how! damn there goes a tenner.. Ok now I got a silly no. of 50mm screws (they only had 60mm): I need 50x but smallest box 500x. Then a box of 1000x 32mm (need 450 max). Then a whopping great roll of (paper) jointing tape.. from here to the moon looks like, & a whopping great 25kg bag of compound to mix. Is that all OTT flippin daft?? still no extension boxes in town.. another week.

Got my TE 6x PB's all stacked next door room.. that's progress. omg sooo big & scary tho. no more pics of my foam beings no.

Ok Peter thanks. I need all help as feeling like cr*p! (I did read but overlooked onoff's link/ which is different ["low to minimal expansion ~50%"] sorry I thought just the same can spiel again.. odd not on it IMO. Once I get reveal 4 bits in place I'll have some mojo back I think.. this ev I hope. godawful walls/ terrible strip job & prep to do, & general pickle in here is getting me down a bit tbh. I need to see progress for a pickmeup.

Ok understood, I guess its sort of mid/ average temp now: I'm just trying to guage what 'low' may be relative to std 30x, 60x cans.. no probs as I'm yet to get screws. I'll try email the Co..

Ah yes thanks, this info is on the can too.. but oddly zilch on the 2 basics I need to know.. how long to set/ how much it expands to.

No way he's not! I'll do ~midway between suggestions.. appreciate the replies/ good timing the boards are here in an hr. is getting them into place from landscape to portait able to be done alone do yoy think? or is that a defo-disaster idea..

How long to wait after applying soudal LoExp foam for it to cure/ to cut flush? And how much does this stuff expand by? no info on can in either case.. if I'm using it as an adhesive to stick the insulated PIR down to the mortar, plaster in reveal area.. won't it push the PIR sections up/ or out (sides) when it cures/ expands-? Wednesday didn't happen for me.. no idea where it went.. so Im a day behind/ the PB boards delivery today PM. How do they get delivered by the way.. upright or flat? if flat, is it possible to lift one of these 8'x4' up alone, or will this split it? maybe I can ask deliver guy to help me into hse with them/ store upright (longways).. not sure if that's wrong to ask.

Good plan.. will do. glad I don't have to address this before, it looks a pig of a job/ never done plastering. Ive got similar blown areas on the 2 'other' walls. All day stripping one, about 30 holes in, alot of my smaller graft/ scrape marks all over, plus blown areas to fill.. a horrible day. As bad as walls get/ in a terrible state, badly built > then plied with awful diy jobs + 20 yrs of paint layers caked on to strip inch by inch. urgh..

Ah that's odd: my Jewson confirmed order code saying tho only 2x edges tapered.. short sides > but asked her to check & no its the 2x LOOONG sides tapered. Great. I guess thats -better- then than 4TE, not having the taper at ceiling?! onoff do you have a rule of thumb no. of screws for an 8'x4' PB..? maybe I can use as a guide as to how many zillions I'm gonna need. And what distance between the reveal sections' screws a good figure-? sorry if Ive asked these Q's before.. just I'm onto this tmrw. What I do have is one 5mm deep plaster area 'blown' (I had to resort to a steamer to get the godawful disaster-paint off other walls hence dmg) adjacent wall to the PB to put on. do I need to address this before the PB get whacked up next to it?

Do you know what I mean by [] this way/ orientation ("portrait" I call it as Im a dericate frower.. I bet builders don't call it that) for my PB's?

onoff am I looking at 50mm screws for my (30mm) ins PB > reveal edge battens, or longer? and wasn't it 32mm for the 12.5mm PB > battens?

Omg so much more things to get/ consider. Ok thanks for links. I'm just going to get the screws/ the PB job done before I can think of all these extras. One Q, is re these tapered edges: on all 4 edges? I was thinking of putting them in [] this config.. the walls either side of the window are ideal. Is that correct thinking, or have I messed that up-?

Good points newhome. I'm sort of used to filling/ sanding albeit on the woodwork front.. so I've some knowledge about how 'perfect' a finish is likely needed prior to painting. Saves £alot & prob not a major headache. Good practice too for the upstairs BIG job I'll have to tackle after the winter. Its all about doing w'out pro's so far.. so ideal if I can do all the job.

Ok good got the tapered edge PB coming thurs, instead of the std PB. Cheaper at Jewsons in fact/ stocked. Easier than I thought that! Cheers zoot

Understood.. but isn't it a very skilled job, ie only real avenue is getting a pro in to do this? In which case A) likely nigh on impossible for 6 months I'd bet around here, only a few around & B] just for such a small job I'd prob be last on their list 'todo'/ or refuse job maybe. Ok will try the other 2 places. I have a trade account with TP you see which £really helps.