zoothorn

Cheers Ferdinand.. useful having some encouragement. I took the plunge today & ripped off bits Peter noted (BFO red marker) & altho I scratched the frame to chisel superglued bits off, & altho the window -does- seem to be fixed in by foam alone (alarming!).. job done. Frame seems solid & no gaps to fill in fact top or sides, just the sill. So I'm ready to tart the sill up. I'm ok foam-filling the gap, but how to make a new level area in front of it? is it a Q of mixing some mortar stuff up making a wood surround to put the mix in front of or s'thing? a 5min job for the experienced.. but a head-scratcher for me. thx zoot

Hehe.. no its down to me alone if my window falls on out on my head after Ive been dicking about with it! will check back in tmrw. Cheers chaps. zoot

Aha nice one Peter- useful gizmo to add arrows! most helpful again. Do you think you can guarantee if I undo these, the frame won't become loose? I'd like to think its set in with either mortar &/ or frame fixing screws like my concrete jobs > then glass pane on. But the way this place was built so badly makes me very wary.

Thanks newhome.. a frustrating day of nr zilch done when Id planned loads feels kinda 'things got better of me' & esp with the kitchen in a royal pickle becoming trying too// so a new day tmrw. I'm off work for now so the week to do w'no major rush.. but I was on a roll > then a brick wall.

Bugger I thought PB was fixed on quick/quick with those felt nails.. gonna be a long job with screws & a big heavy cordless. I'm also wondering how the heck I'm going to hold the PB up to fix it on.. anyway I need to get xyz done before this prospect. I'm out of my depth again i can feel it. Still chewing over this damn window area. With no experience I can't tell if I undo the trims whether the window will fall out/ if they are part of the structure of the frame or not. I might therefore have to leave them as is & just try & do the sill area.. far from easy for me just this. Onoff do I need a dpm or not? as I said I found none before under the sill I took out, so if it aint broke..

Ok thanks Peter- I'll cross this bridge when I come to it/ a ton to do b4. The window reveal is prooving a v. tricky prospect for me a 1st timer, even with onoff's pics. Ive put up one batten only today- rest of day Ive been researching this window area/ hopefully to do tmrw. I'm trying to establish what bits of my upvc frame are what: additions/ to remove (& what the 3 white things below frame are). And whether they need removing. It looks on 1st glance to be all same unit but maybe some are trims added on a flat frame? Can anybody help me out on this, looking at this pic again..

Won't it snap -only- if a straight line though? that was what I was concerned with re. my very gently curving PB edge.

Onoff Ive gone over your reveal pics again 3x (I get the idea now- all a blur before tbh!). Ok once your upvc trims removed your window seems to be floating.. remind me how its fixed in will you, or I'm nervous removing my trims thinking the window's gonna fall out! Ok screwfix tmrw to get that soudal stuff, & a gun-type standard foam can. And to pillage some 2" polystyrene from s'where.. now I get the idea to wedge in my cavity gap & then foam onto. Is norm,al polystyrene the idea (is this eps?) or do I need builders grade stuff. You say your 27mm pb 'screwed on' the batten at front.. are all the PB > stud fixings screws? or is it only the reveal.. I thought the PB > stud fixings were those grey big flat head 1" or so 'roofing felt' nails.. no?

Roughly on board w'the idea Peter.. clever. Ok so assuming Ive got the profile curve pencilled at edge of my PB, how then do I actually cut the PB edge to the shallow curve?

Aha I got it. the frame idea being a timber 2nd/ inner course? (hence battens thicker, & perpendicular to mine I guess) . Ok the Q's are gonna keep coming I'm afraid: how do I go about my RHS of PB, where it joins an old stone wall: this old wall is a good curve inwards twds top, meaning my last batten has a 1" gap at is low point (relative to the adjacent old wall) its batten flush to this wall at its top point. IE the PB needs, effectively, a curved edge: shorter at top/ more at btm. Actually I have the same issue on the LHS of this wall where the PB will meet another PB/ 1st of the wall yet to do.

Belt & braces.. I'm on his ship then. I'm like this! esp doing a big job like this for 1st time- its the ideal person to lend a hand. Another Q chaps: I note onoff's staggered noggins between his battens.. but Peter's eg (i think it was/ pic of) showed no noggins/ PIR top to btm. Are noggins needed in my case? to help the PIR to wedge in or s'thing? or can I go without ok/ as is, using 25mm C'tex stuff?

I have a feeling you're right. Its probably the cold air getting into these damn cavites thats causing not only the 3 rooms in this extention but both the bedrooms upstairs to be like fridges too.. so I wonder whether this cavity should be like mine are built, that being, open to the loft area so open effectively to the outside air? is that normal way to build a std 2-course room with a pitched roof above? I guess if so, then its the imperative to therefore PIR- protect all the weak points like the sill/ window areas.. rather than actually close the cavity gap at the top of the wall where it meets the loft. I just can't see any way of closing this cavity gap from the loft-side, as the roof timbers inhibits physically getting there. Especially the top floor/ house loft as the purlins are bang in the way, let alone squeezing into the tight corner- an awful prospect I think in fact totally untenable as an idea.

Damn got wrong foam then. Ok to planB: I'll have to try do the job with my foam & its sh*tty attatchment even if it can only be used for the sill job. So here's the wall done so far.. alas there'll be some in/ out PB variation over the battens.. but impossible for me to shim to level unless a days more spent on it (the wall badly fluctuated b4/ Ive done pretty well to level out some of it I think).. at least the units will hide alot. I'm going back over your 27mm insulated PB info/ pics.. maybe this is the way to go if £feasable for a small area. Onoff is it definite neccessary I use a dpc on the sill job?? I understand what they're for etc.. its just that this is a renovation rather than a build, ie, it had no dpc issue before, or any evidence of damp after recent rain. And yours is a continuation of the walls' dpc which looks like the latter stages of a complete build, unlike mine. thx zoothornrollo

All good info onoff taking on board- I just got back from town to get a screwfix gun, but just read these ^ replies: so, have I got the right no-nonsense can for it? I don't know now. I had this before/ a std foam with the std straw attatchment. The gun specs said it goes with normal cans.. so what's what I'm not sure now. Had planned to do this job today you see. I notice on your reveal pics a blue dpc involved: as you can see from mine, looking in my draughty sill gap I don't see this. What should I do?

Understood re. the BFO green line etc.. & the back of screwdriver tap/ I'll make sure for an accurate C'line on both ceiling & floor.. need all the help i can prior to doing PB for 1st time. Not looking fwd to it tbh. I am looking fwd to the C'tex'ing tho.. satisfying & fairly quick: is the idea of fixing it flat ready for the PB job, by using some gubbins on wall to help.. or cut it so precisely as to jamming it between as only way of suring it in-?

Did I say 440? 400. 3 x 400 = 1200. is that right? I noted your packing info onoff.. Ive put slivers of 3mm board behind each fixing point to give me 28mm. I hope that's enough! Ah I didn't know the PB would 'give' if more than 400mm.. eek. I hope that 460mm gap will be ok. The 500mm gap is hidden by units so ok. I'll bear this in mind re. the trickier wall (new sink etc.. lord alive thats gonna be the biggest sod of the job).

Hi Ferdinand- ah I see so you mean use a mark on say the ceiling, once the PB is on then track the mark back onto the PB? Not following the next bit tho.. using a tool handle or a ***? I had thought whether I could use my metal/ stud detector thing to NOT sound when its off the metal C'tex surface & on the batten. Not sure if that would work tho. Is this sort of what you mean?

Peter, can you tell me why never wider? Im still not sure why the fig of 400, apart from it being 3 x 440 = 1200. Or in theory is 600 + 600 just as reasonable to do..?

Yup already getting a sense of achievement.. the battens went on great (tho finding them under the PB is a daunting prospect/ some had to be 46 cm or 50cm not the std 40cm due to the 2xsocket or window edge intrusions. I'm one for doing a proper job now Im getting on a bit.. so now thinking to do the reveals whilst I'm at it. The floor is one major source of cold along with these 2 walls & the fogged/ shot big upvc window, one in the pics.. but don't think I can do anything about that. Got the info re. grip adhesive for this problem batten. thanks. Will get on monday @ screwfix with a foam gun trigger thingy.

25 x 50 battens

Great help chaps, really grateful- so much easier to see these ref pics again than haviong to go back to pg5 or 6 too/ appreciated. Soryy onoff but as I cannot get notifications of replies, I posted the Q without knowing a reply had been made.. its often only when I reload the page that I see new replies, which I continually forget to do. This is why i've been trying & trying to get notifications- but can't ('m also in a collossal ammount of pain on v. strong but useless painkillers- doesn't help things). Ok so I will get one of those guns- I loathe expanifoam can jobs with a passion. Now the gap between my blocks seems to be nearing 2.5+".. so will my can of no-nonsense normal foam be ok or will it just fall down into the void/ maybe I need super-dupa-expandifoam stuff to span it?

So far.. the veerticals done on 1 of the 2 walls. I need advice on getting a batten onto the top lip of the window.. Im sure its a lintel or s'thing I'm hitting but I can't drill enough depth.

I'm trying to do the horizontal batten on window top edge.. but my drill bit seems to be hitting a metal lintel-? something anyway so I'm 1" of D short. What do I do here? the screws just strip the hole out if I try putting one in.

What sort of foam Peter.. the usual expanding stuff or something designed as an adhesive? Is this addition normal, or is the reveal usually not PIR done-?

Yanked the sill out- took some block away tho @ top mind you. I get a big draught from the cavity: is that normal? I find a 2" cavity between 2 blocks, with some 1" C'tex on the inner course. I thought it was 1cm in fact/ so the Insulation Co told me when they came out & probed in (last year- having this C'tex meant I couldn't get a grant they said).