zoothorn

Hang on Im still not on board. do you mean use a straight edge, clamped on..? Im trying to figure out what your clamps are for exactly. Im sure its a good idea.. anyway I'm about to put up the whole sheet- Ive cut the vertical line, hoping it won't break here. damn heavy these twisting round/ up.

Aha! I was thinking put a massive clamp out through the window, clamping the pB to the outside wall.. for some reason.. it must be that I thought!

Ok understand where clamp go. b but dunnae know what clamp for. ugh.

Gotcha/ capeesh all the way up to.. 'put a clamp on start of cut' onoff... b b but where/ clamp/ eh?

That's an idea (cut later) but how? I could barely get behind to mark cos it was so big a "C".. I had to squash my head between the pB & window to reach to mark/ actually I had to do 1/2 of it outside thru the top window! Cheap as chips that last one's a good site. Ok wilol guage the wire length 1st thing tmrw & order if enough wire. I'm still up a gum tree re. this extreme "C" pb2. Has the idea of splitting it into 3 (in obvious places) got legs?

Thanks Tennent'sLager.. yes will do this tmrw. There looks to be slack.. but I'd think needed to twist the damn plate 90*, ie to install those HD wires in the 1st place. Its going to be a week before I can get any extentions from s'where anyway now, should I be able to extend ok.. If none, bar 1 unsuitable type, on ebay then gotta be not so readily available. One place I went into suggested, him being an ex-spark, tinstead to surface mount by attatching down the stud > then out to a plate on the pb front. I said I didn't have knowledge enough to agree this a good plan, but thx etc/ put it to you guys/ this forum who I mentioned.

Understood onoff. Actually as I said unlike all this batten/ PB stuff, I've experience with electrics. I put in a shower, built amps with 500v flying about.. so this is perfectly easy (just the stiff HD cable stuff & tight conditions will p*ss me off).. if I need to. I'll cross this wee bridge in a bit too, bc.. At the mo Ive a more prior pressing issue. My 1st major plonker bodge up, I think. I thought pb2 would be the RHS one, with 2 'pieces' above/ below the window 'completing' the PB wall as pb3. Buggerit. Ive done the battens ALL from L to R. So my next 1200 junction, is along from the edge of pb1.. across the window.. & 14" on a bit. Ive marked the (new) pb2, but its such a BIG 'C' shape (only 14" 'width' for most of the H) that it will inneviatably snap getting just upright. Unless I make serious braces of 3x maybe.. but then it'll be barely liftable/ too heavy. This is going to be a slow job. A whole day & only 1 pB done. I'm aiming to get these 3/ this wall done for wed AM if I can (even if pb3 covers the sockets for now, if it ca that isn be then removed). Then I'm off for surgery (v .minor) wed PM for a few days, my folks I'm having to help me out with/ will be here, hence need to put the 2 units back this side > & new top on.. albeit in a very 'plonk/ plonk' temporary way (but functional/ kitchen "somewhat normal" again). Thanks chaps- zootH.

I did unscrew them, but can't determine if the wires are long enough.. it looks like there's some 'slack' available, maybe. What I need to know is if I can leave this for now, & crack on with the 2 bits of pb3 (above & below window), with pb2 just 'pinned' in its final place. Then take off pb2 later & do the socket biz. If I don't have enough wire I'll have to re-place the socket(s) higher I guess. That's quite a job for me. Maybe I need an electrician.. but just for an hr's work/ unlikely any will be available being busiest time of year you see.

If I get the pb2 on, as good as say the C'tex around the single 'socket' here, how would I then be able to 'get in' & faff bout with extending it-?

Right, nowhere in town for these extensions, the place who said getting them in midweek now say not. Just read your ^ post onoff thx. I have 2 recessed into wall: one double & 1 switch-with-red-light (the surface mounted a single socket, on adjacent wall/ yet to batten/ cross that bridge later). Ok Ive got the C'tex done around sockets fine, but yet to "socket mark" the pb2. I get the idea of marking with screws out/ card template (good idea) but concerned I won't easily be able to get in to add the extensions with the cramped space I'll have. Can this be done at all, after pb2 on? What about this idea: can I not 'pin' pb2, in its correct place, say 8 screws, then crack on with pb3 (2 pieces, above & below the window), then come back to pb2 by removing it?? its a Q of whether I can undo it/ take it out, logistically.. assuming I do it nice & tight to RH wall, & ceiling, plus the adjacent pb3 two pieces tight up to it as well. I need opinions on this idea before I proceed with the job.

No, alas no box Peter. I'm off to town again now to trawl places/ anywhere. Hey cheers.. quite chuffed me. Pleased with the uniformness, no odd bumps or ins/outs afaict as Id expected. Ceiling's already painted.. so immediately looks like proper progress just pb1 done.

I'm a bit stumped now, as pb2 is the one with the sockets which I haven't extended yet.. so I have no way of accurately transferring the box positions > onto pb2. Midweek before in. Any ideas how? or is it not wise to do pb2/ get it on with the boxes still receeded.. have a feeling I need the extensions before I can continue the job.

It ain't perfect here 'n there.. needs tarting up, but probably best I could ever do for a 1st time..

Hi onoff.. yes that was my plan too: neater, & units of course will cover these offcuts nr floor. I need to cover, primarily only for mice! Whole morning to do pb1.. damn heavy & difficult alone. Not perfect, but as good as I'd hoped..

Good ideas there- guess this the std way then.. ideal if I had a spare double socket tho, got that LAN single one ok to draw round so that on'es ok. cheers zootH.

Yes he's going to mark the batten positions! I haven't trimmed the edge off yet of no1 PB. Starting tmrw. No2 PB is held up anyway due to no extension boxes in yet/ whole job's held up tbh. I need to ask about the socket cutout positions on no2 PB too.. that looks a b'stard job to get right.

Yes good point. I had thought of this.. but one thing bodges this up: the pics show a C'tex board for the PB, but, annoyingly its a bit wider than a PB sheet. So accounting for this.. the PB will land back a bit from the centrepoint of battens, if I tuck it in flush as per the pic1. The only bonus is the C'tex is exactly one PB width wider. So I need to get this width cut off the PB @ top LH corner.. down to the edge 1/3rd way down, then hope both the gaps minimal, & I hit the battens' mids as per the C'tex template/ pic1. A bit of luck needed.

Ah ok then I have the fatter old stanley type then- good, actually just got thru the 25mm C'tex with it. Good. What I've just thought of.. is instead of a curve, is go eg1 with one straight cut at midpoint > to top LH cnr. I just can't face this curve cut, esp on the LH edge! eg1 looks clearly better on the photo in fact. So we agree on the 1st pic. So, a slight gap in the corner of 0.5cm at worst to fill. Good thats a plan I think. I'm less nervous about starting the PB job tmrw now. Cheers zoot.

Pic 1: pushing the PB up flush to the ceiling/ top L corner.. so Ive got a 1.5 cm gap from 1/3rd way down.. onwards more or less. Its less 'vertical', but actually hits the midpoint of my battens better. No gap to ceiling. Pic 2: pushing the PB up flush with the side batten.. so Ive got a 1cm gap at midpoint.. 0.5 cm gap @ 1/3rd way down, same 1/3rd up. Its even less 'vertical' than ^, hits batten mids ~just ot. But now a 0.5 cm gap to ceiling @ its farthest point R. I'm struggling a bit more on eg2 to hit the lower batten's centre.. its morelike 2/5ths on & 3/5ths batten. eg1 is more 50/50.

A stanley being a fat heavier handled type w'more chutzpa I guess, craft the lighter thinner kind.. is that the difference? Cutting the RHS edge seems a much easier proposition than the slight curve on the LHS, if doing upright.. which is what I''ll go for.. dust is my biggest gripe- I loathe it.

That's a fab idea.. got 2.4m battens sitting here for other wall. I'll use a 8x4' C'tex 1st to rough guage how it'll fit 1st. Do I need any specific cutter to nip off this pesky wee curve to the edge-?

I'm digging my new toys.. just done test & drill bits ace: thank god screws c'sunk without PB (std stuff) edge breaks: big relief. The foam gun's great (now my explosions ceased!), the yellow scraper things great, PB carry thing might be of use soon. All very sound advice. I'm next considering the prospect of handling a 8x4' PB, in here being only 8x8' tall. 4 inches headroom.. so can't manoeuvre landscape > portrait. Only way is flat down, & tilt on the short edge.. but can't see how alone w'out a 'snap'. Ive got to get in place to 1st outline the pesky curve edge / then down & cut *, then back up to check / down.. can this be done 1 person? And * I need to establish how, IE, the 2nd piece along (PB 1 & 3 along this wall need "C" sort of shape cuts for window).

Ah hang on I did have tapered is PB didn't I.. but unfortunately (for this idea) the 2nd go at these 4 panels & they're all uniform flat (bar top bit of sides). If that's what you meant, I'm impressed you remembered that i had tapered ins PB. But only 2TE mind you. I can't see why, inprinciple I can't just fill the edge thats showing.. but I guess that's n/a. What is feathering involve, apart from feathers? [[[ onoff I'm concerned: you need time off for now.. pick this up tmrw. ]]] huge thanks. zootH

Ah ok I get the idea, but looks like tapered edges are part of the plan? so only possible if they're bang at the place you want tho.. @ edge of the reveals; my PB's will be all std edge at these edges.

Isn't the idea with these to use with 3mm skim tho? skimming's a skilled job/ a job too far for me ..