zoothorn

Understand the principle of this. but I still can't see what the clamped timber is doing exactly.. or: the cut line you refer to: has this been done already on your fag packet > then clamp over this you mean? or is it to aid the 1st rough cut? I think I'll have to come back to this, I can't afford to bodge this up. (or if anyone can shed light, or, think of another way to do these 2 cuts Id be grateful). thanks alot- zootH

Ive got the vertical cut done, so maybe this complicates the other 2 cuts I'm not sure.

Sorry onoff.. I'm still unsure what the clamp is for, I see the small square of timber, & the clamp pushing it into the front face of the pB. But I can't establish what its doing/ what it's for to aid the cut. Im sure it'll be of use (as these 2 cuts are tricky/ I'm mulling over/ weighing up how to do them.. saw 1st??) as your ideas all are.. be grateful if you could clarify! call it a codeine fug if you will!

Is a saw the best thing to make the rough cuts ~2" away from my 2x cuts across? got the sod up tho.. thank gawd..

As a straignht edge along which to make the cut?

Hang on Im still not on board. do you mean use a straight edge, clamped on..? Im trying to figure out what your clamps are for exactly. Im sure its a good idea.. anyway I'm about to put up the whole sheet- Ive cut the vertical line, hoping it won't break here. damn heavy these twisting round/ up.

Aha! I was thinking put a massive clamp out through the window, clamping the pB to the outside wall.. for some reason.. it must be that I thought!

Ok understand where clamp go. b but dunnae know what clamp for. ugh.

Gotcha/ capeesh all the way up to.. 'put a clamp on start of cut' onoff... b b but where/ clamp/ eh?

That's an idea (cut later) but how? I could barely get behind to mark cos it was so big a "C".. I had to squash my head between the pB & window to reach to mark/ actually I had to do 1/2 of it outside thru the top window! Cheap as chips that last one's a good site. Ok wilol guage the wire length 1st thing tmrw & order if enough wire. I'm still up a gum tree re. this extreme "C" pb2. Has the idea of splitting it into 3 (in obvious places) got legs?

Thanks Tennent'sLager.. yes will do this tmrw. There looks to be slack.. but I'd think needed to twist the damn plate 90*, ie to install those HD wires in the 1st place. Its going to be a week before I can get any extentions from s'where anyway now, should I be able to extend ok.. If none, bar 1 unsuitable type, on ebay then gotta be not so readily available. One place I went into suggested, him being an ex-spark, tinstead to surface mount by attatching down the stud > then out to a plate on the pb front. I said I didn't have knowledge enough to agree this a good plan, but thx etc/ put it to you guys/ this forum who I mentioned.

Understood onoff. Actually as I said unlike all this batten/ PB stuff, I've experience with electrics. I put in a shower, built amps with 500v flying about.. so this is perfectly easy (just the stiff HD cable stuff & tight conditions will p*ss me off).. if I need to. I'll cross this wee bridge in a bit too, bc.. At the mo Ive a more prior pressing issue. My 1st major plonker bodge up, I think. I thought pb2 would be the RHS one, with 2 'pieces' above/ below the window 'completing' the PB wall as pb3. Buggerit. Ive done the battens ALL from L to R. So my next 1200 junction, is along from the edge of pb1.. across the window.. & 14" on a bit. Ive marked the (new) pb2, but its such a BIG 'C' shape (only 14" 'width' for most of the H) that it will inneviatably snap getting just upright. Unless I make serious braces of 3x maybe.. but then it'll be barely liftable/ too heavy. This is going to be a slow job. A whole day & only 1 pB done. I'm aiming to get these 3/ this wall done for wed AM if I can (even if pb3 covers the sockets for now, if it ca that isn be then removed). Then I'm off for surgery (v .minor) wed PM for a few days, my folks I'm having to help me out with/ will be here, hence need to put the 2 units back this side > & new top on.. albeit in a very 'plonk/ plonk' temporary way (but functional/ kitchen "somewhat normal" again). Thanks chaps- zootH.

I did unscrew them, but can't determine if the wires are long enough.. it looks like there's some 'slack' available, maybe. What I need to know is if I can leave this for now, & crack on with the 2 bits of pb3 (above & below window), with pb2 just 'pinned' in its final place. Then take off pb2 later & do the socket biz. If I don't have enough wire I'll have to re-place the socket(s) higher I guess. That's quite a job for me. Maybe I need an electrician.. but just for an hr's work/ unlikely any will be available being busiest time of year you see.

If I get the pb2 on, as good as say the C'tex around the single 'socket' here, how would I then be able to 'get in' & faff bout with extending it-?

Right, nowhere in town for these extensions, the place who said getting them in midweek now say not. Just read your ^ post onoff thx. I have 2 recessed into wall: one double & 1 switch-with-red-light (the surface mounted a single socket, on adjacent wall/ yet to batten/ cross that bridge later). Ok Ive got the C'tex done around sockets fine, but yet to "socket mark" the pb2. I get the idea of marking with screws out/ card template (good idea) but concerned I won't easily be able to get in to add the extensions with the cramped space I'll have. Can this be done at all, after pb2 on? What about this idea: can I not 'pin' pb2, in its correct place, say 8 screws, then crack on with pb3 (2 pieces, above & below the window), then come back to pb2 by removing it?? its a Q of whether I can undo it/ take it out, logistically.. assuming I do it nice & tight to RH wall, & ceiling, plus the adjacent pb3 two pieces tight up to it as well. I need opinions on this idea before I proceed with the job.

No, alas no box Peter. I'm off to town again now to trawl places/ anywhere. Hey cheers.. quite chuffed me. Pleased with the uniformness, no odd bumps or ins/outs afaict as Id expected. Ceiling's already painted.. so immediately looks like proper progress just pb1 done.

I'm a bit stumped now, as pb2 is the one with the sockets which I haven't extended yet.. so I have no way of accurately transferring the box positions > onto pb2. Midweek before in. Any ideas how? or is it not wise to do pb2/ get it on with the boxes still receeded.. have a feeling I need the extensions before I can continue the job.

It ain't perfect here 'n there.. needs tarting up, but probably best I could ever do for a 1st time..

Hi onoff.. yes that was my plan too: neater, & units of course will cover these offcuts nr floor. I need to cover, primarily only for mice! Whole morning to do pb1.. damn heavy & difficult alone. Not perfect, but as good as I'd hoped..

Good ideas there- guess this the std way then.. ideal if I had a spare double socket tho, got that LAN single one ok to draw round so that on'es ok. cheers zootH.

Yes he's going to mark the batten positions! I haven't trimmed the edge off yet of no1 PB. Starting tmrw. No2 PB is held up anyway due to no extension boxes in yet/ whole job's held up tbh. I need to ask about the socket cutout positions on no2 PB too.. that looks a b'stard job to get right.

Yes good point. I had thought of this.. but one thing bodges this up: the pics show a C'tex board for the PB, but, annoyingly its a bit wider than a PB sheet. So accounting for this.. the PB will land back a bit from the centrepoint of battens, if I tuck it in flush as per the pic1. The only bonus is the C'tex is exactly one PB width wider. So I need to get this width cut off the PB @ top LH corner.. down to the edge 1/3rd way down, then hope both the gaps minimal, & I hit the battens' mids as per the C'tex template/ pic1. A bit of luck needed.

Ah ok then I have the fatter old stanley type then- good, actually just got thru the 25mm C'tex with it. Good. What I've just thought of.. is instead of a curve, is go eg1 with one straight cut at midpoint > to top LH cnr. I just can't face this curve cut, esp on the LH edge! eg1 looks clearly better on the photo in fact. So we agree on the 1st pic. So, a slight gap in the corner of 0.5cm at worst to fill. Good thats a plan I think. I'm less nervous about starting the PB job tmrw now. Cheers zoot.

Pic 1: pushing the PB up flush to the ceiling/ top L corner.. so Ive got a 1.5 cm gap from 1/3rd way down.. onwards more or less. Its less 'vertical', but actually hits the midpoint of my battens better. No gap to ceiling. Pic 2: pushing the PB up flush with the side batten.. so Ive got a 1cm gap at midpoint.. 0.5 cm gap @ 1/3rd way down, same 1/3rd up. Its even less 'vertical' than ^, hits batten mids ~just ot. But now a 0.5 cm gap to ceiling @ its farthest point R. I'm struggling a bit more on eg2 to hit the lower batten's centre.. its morelike 2/5ths on & 3/5ths batten. eg1 is more 50/50.

A stanley being a fat heavier handled type w'more chutzpa I guess, craft the lighter thinner kind.. is that the difference? Cutting the RHS edge seems a much easier proposition than the slight curve on the LHS, if doing upright.. which is what I''ll go for.. dust is my biggest gripe- I loathe it.