zoothorn

Nice one newhome.. pinned on so I yanked them off/ prob need to replace.. if not the whole units I'll make that decision later.

Ok just seen last 4 replies before ^ this one of mine/ thanks alot for those esp the diagram onoff. So no top horizontal batten rail needed- good one less job. Right then, plan is units out- & Ive taken the plunge & got one side out (laptop area/ easier side of the 2 L-shaped joined together). I plan to do this wall 1st, leave sink unit in place until I've some practise & more confident to do this tricky 2nd side. What I'm left with to cause trouble on this bare wall.. is a window sill, a power point, & a single on-off-w'light switch socket above it. What to do with these?

Can someone tell me how to remove the 'skirting' section of the units, under the doors? they have no obvious outside screws showing. I'm attempting to deconstruct the units to pull them out/ to do the insulation job- with them in situ job isn't possible. I'm wondering if this is all to much tbh! I'm panicking a bit. Tops effectively off, drawers & doors removed,. Ok the units seem to be in sections of 2-doors-wide. Ive separated the 1st (under the laptop area in pics).. but its still attatched via the skirting bit.

Thanks chaps (still can't get notifications of replies, hence the delay in my posts..) So do I need the horizontal battens, sorry I'm not quite following the plan with these right now enough to start. I'm going to have a look see if I can shift the units out/ away to do the C'tex job.. then put back onto the PB. Quite a tricky job afaict, so not sure which way to go: ;leave in or shift out/ away. Can you remind me why 'string' is used/ where? Appreciated. zoot

Onoff- do you have a batten rail across the top of the vertical battens? I can't see as your blue dpc thing is over the top.. I guess if so its easier to put a batten across, above the tops of the verticals, rather than a series of noggins-?

Hey I like that bit- can see the idea.. will get one when I'm ready for the PB. At the mo I'm just painting ceiling to do this 1st. Got battens & torx screws (yup- black bit in box/ screwfix). I'm concerned with the rearside of the units: doing the battens, C'tex & PB down behind.. lookslike a devil of a job. And to be honest I don't know how I can get to the lower batten fixing point, & the bottom batten 'rail' across at all..

Hi Peter- nothing in my junk inbox either in fact.. thx zootH

Understtod onoff- Ive found an extention thing for the drill bits. What fixings for the 9mm PB > battens? Also taking off this coving.. is the idea to replace with something? [Im still not able to get notifcations of a reply in my hotmail inbox- is this possible?] thanks zoot

What is an impact-driver anyway? is it same as the hammer drill function on my old makita drill driver I wonder..

Ok will get a box of these anyway/ hope I get bonus bit. My makita is good.. as long as its not stupid-tight to get screw in after a 6mm pilot hole, it will suffice for the job with the other one for holes. I priced up C'tex (*therm stuff is their equivalent), batten & PB in T.Perkins today, so things progressing. Will be slow tho.. Im ill & best do job right without rushing. Remind me how PB is best cut? And will I need to get a plasterer in after PB & prior to painting?

Onoff.. why do I need to put it into one of these magnetic extention things 1st? went to screwfix today.. but couldnt see a bit in box/ opened btm end only tho/ will call mfrs tmrw.

Sorry Im not on board here. I see the link, but nowhere does it say the bit is inc neither the specs info or the reviews (afaict). Is this the set of screws with the bit included? if not, can you point me to which/ where to buy from? Its so I know the bit fits the screw, for definite. It just makes total sense for me/ I dont need other bits. Thanks, zoot

Bugger.. mine won't work then. So I refer to my previous Q: bit in with the screwfix x100 jobs? & if not- where are those screws with bit-in-with obtained from??

Onoff any chance you can measure across the relevant bit.. mine measures 4mm, in case I can fluke it & screwfix ones dont have the foc bit.

Nice little makita. mine's an oldie, but japan & huage, only 12v.. but is a fine thing. might put a pic up of me shovel.. Onoff- you mean you get a bit foc in with the screwfix torx concrete screws x100? that would be great. Gonna crack on with this tmrw- off work ill with major nerve pain pills/ no router stuff for me: so slow kitchen work about all i can manage & no safety stuff to be concerned with like up me ladder, just drill work. as I float around kitchen..

Bloomin torx heads.. Im rifling thru my bits & found only one/ a fluke if it fits the 80mm screwfix concrete screws I'd planned to buy in town. Are these type of screws only available in torx head? whats the deal with torx anyway..

Ferdinand- thx for drill bits link.. buying from screwfix today > TP for battens & concrete screws. So I'm off running on this job today. Now I have old worktop off, I see spaces behind the units.. but.. interrupted by a few unit 'walls' perpendicular to the back walls. How do I negotiate a C'tex job around these? I assume I need to do behind units too or cold will whack in here.. not just down to worktop? Is there a calculator to tell how much C'tex stuff, and PB I need?

That's an interesting look for interior.. sort of a modern f'arty shoreditch lunar or something. Drill bits.. ah ok! that's important to get the right size for the fixing. Once I know what size screws & I'll nip in & get + roof batten.. & get cracking today on this. very grateful chaps- zootH

Is that possible?

Haha I like that.. Ok what size concrete screws then, for 1" batten + 9mm pb ? & regarding drills: can you tell me if mine are ok here? The bosch is a swiss VG one, with a hammer whatnot (a guy gave me/ was binning at a recycle dump!) & a 12v old makita. New worktop temp in place.. already a relief to rid the old horrorshow. What interval distance between batten fixings as a ~basic rule?

I see! muppet me.. told you I was a novice! Ok tell me why we need such humungous screws? those torx monsters look like a similar thimg to a 'frame fixing screw', which I used to fix a 1" door frame I whipped up. These are still big buggers @ 4", going in 3" to the wall but use rawl plug things which sit in the batten/ frame as well as the wall. But those torx scare me.. Is there any reason for such a massive screw to just fix battens to wall? or, are they designed to be bigger, in order to go w'out rawl plugs-? Is it a Q of using so many as will likely be needed for all the battens, that my frame-screw idea will just be alot costlier in £ & time..

Brilliant onoff.. very tidy job indeed! lots of help for me there, I'll use these as a guide- appreciated. How do you get the green pb (is this gyproc, from TP?) to not show any nail holes though.. assuming they're @ the 400mm baton lines/ I assume you don't need to plaster onto that, do you?

Yes two windows, 2x glazed.. but one is fogged on one edge/ half, so I assume this mean it needs replacing?

Understood. Which would you suggest? has board alone got any insulating properties? Im thinking cold will innevitably get 'in' via this reveal area.. but Im a novice doing this job/ need to simplify as much as I can.

So when you say a 'reveal'.. you mean the inner 'side of block' bit perpendipular to the wall & window? So how do you tidy up this bit, if the batten & board are showing, having been added to wall face?