zoothorn

Ok understood. Please don't give up on me! I'm only trying to understand stuff Ive never done before.. I'm still not sure what's exacty inside my box in order to establish how exactly it extends, & how I actually do it (ie, do I need to extend the actual cabletoo.. etc). I'll turn off the mains electric this ev & have a look.

Ah ok I'm not on board yet then. Your 2 pic egs (just now) seem to be the same.. I assume just a typo.. but yes that sort of thing. But only if its not a major re-faff to revert to this type. I guess it might be better to stay w'one I have, newly replaced anyway (by a 'leccy chap). I have a new 35mm single socket on/off switch w'red light.. here.. can this be used instead of my flush-to-wall one on there at present?

Screwfix do a 47mm one https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-galvanised-steel-knockout-boxes-2g-47mm/29466?_requestid=272602 Am I thinking along the right lines? 1cm proud of the PB preferable than a couple of mm's under, with the 35mm one? mine seems to be 1cm or so proud of my plastered wall after all.

Onoff, it it a Q (in the case of your links here) of adding these 'extensions' to/ behind my existing socket boxes? I was considering only just now, maybe ditching these & instead put in 2 new/ those HD "industrial" grey metal types.. or is that a big job in comparison I wonder.

Any drummer wearing a monacle & paisley pants on his head is worth a listen IMO. Fun & games over.. anyway back to the job!

[Ferdinand that's a wonderful pick/ impressed.. ideal kind of music for the job I'd say]. This is what I was after.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/cementone-general-purpose-mortar-5kg/36857?tc=FB8&ds_kid=92700034801476239&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249484&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInP_cu7PL3AIVr7_tCh3ofg_dEAQYAyABEgKtlvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJL_qcuzy9wCFVITGwod5i4ODw Going over the 'leccy stuff now. Thanks chaps.

Thanks for the music intermission- 1st tune was nice/ havent heard that in a while. The 2nd 'health' actually affected my health as I put it on at breakfast too loud. Well one of mine on the zoot theme (guitarist). Swings hard. Fab solo @ 2.30 I suggest start from this point if not known..

Hehe.. thanks for replies chaps. Very observant. I did some thinking tho: Ive put that extra batten on to bring me mm perfect with the old mortar top, some of which is still there @ front just behind this batten. The old sill was on here/ this H. So the new sill needs to be @ this H too, also bc the worktop's 27mm not 44mm like the old one (which tucked neatly under the old sill). If I continue this top line back to the frame.. Im 2mm just onto it RHS (5mm up onto it LHS.. so window's a bit on the cock). I might add a pine curved-edge sill onto the PB.. to look a bit smart n tarty. May not. I went to screwfix- gave me wrong 'red' Soudal!/ need to go back get the 'blue'.. no probs. tried to find my mortar tub ready mix.. couldn't find the sod/ need to find where I got it before/ ideal for job, for me I think, being a newbie. I need to patch the odd bit too where Ive been a numpty. Good stuff on the 'leccy box info- I'll go over this tonight. Next job I think. TP only do 30mm insulated PB, in end of week @£22 (8'x4'). trying to figure if I can get 8'x4' PB & Extratherm boards in the car. I'll see if Huw's do 27mm.. I don't want to go too 'into' the window frame if I can help it. Big thanks- zoot (weird codeine dream not of me slaying a foam godzilla.. but ross kemp chasing me at a music festival!! codeine...)

So how do I get it level then.. ? it needs a smooth level top for the insulated PB to fix to.. I cant put a level on the top on wet mortar. Ive got the sill area ready for the mix anyway. Next thing after this is to 'bring forward' the sockets (one double, & one single switch w'red light).. I need some ideas one this: is it a Q of replacing these units.. is that what s'one meant by 'bringing them fwd'?

I was wondering if there was a small tub or bag of mortar too tbh.. & I've used one before, mixed in the tub too iirc so no spade/ outside mix job (better for me the king of pain this AM). But would a mortar mix be able to 'level itself' Peter like a concrete mix? I refer back to my thickness Q's..

So concrete will set 'level'.. but mortar isn't designed for that, more stick onto walls etc. Or, is viscosity a factor in distinguishing between the two, apart from the addition of aggregate & the different sand? And is your link bag able to do exterior (got to shore up a slate step) & this sill? (Id best make use of the bag before it goes 'off' I guess)

Cheers onoff- I'm signing off/ pain. maybe I'll have codeine dreams of me slaying hideous foam beasts! hope so.

[done tramadol/ naproxen.. didnt do much for my nerve pain -one flippin molar Im waiting on a GA for to remove would you believe, so painful its been- now Im on amitrypiline & codeine/ 60mg, most poss. Terrifyingly intense pain at times- wouldn't wish anyone to experience tbh]. That bag seems like the sort of thing- Q's: is it thin enough to level itself though (or is thinness just a Q of how much water you mix in?).. & is this mortar, or what's the difference between mortar & concrete? I did use a mortar mix now I recall.. from a 5l tub(?) but was v. thick so it stuck to a vertical wall 'trench' I needed to fill, before tiling (my bathroom I renovated 2 yrs ago & looks good!)

I felled the foam creature with my bendy bread knife (I also use to cut the turf.. along with bread!). Now look don't tempt me with ale.. I'm high on codeine, a weapon of sorts yes.. but you're not fully constipated I'd bet.

I wish I could have a beer.. havent had one since mid world cup/ not allowed to. I think its looking good.. but worried about once the PB is on re. the contours over my battens a bit. once Ive got this bloomin window area done. driving me mad. Can you see tho the flat splat isn't brick or old mortar.. its the foam beast, cut down. I don't alas have anything solid to glue anything onto. If I went sharp sand/ cement > do a mix Id have to buy a bucket of sand min & a bag of cement > 95% left.. And costwise too just for this.. What I need is some stuff I can as you point to (I think?) pour in & it'll level itself. Is there not some sort of small bag of gubbins, fit for the job?

The foam monster's cut roughly flat, but Ive been a muppet & forgot the batten addition at front. Bugger- this sill bed is prooving the trickiest bit. What the heck do I do? the surface is so rough its not feasable to fix the PB onto it surely.. Ive also got to add the batten which will mean building it up again with something/ what Ive no idea, or trying to trim -along/ longways- a batten to get it to 1" > then cut the foam down a fraction. I'm not happy about it as a base for the sill to fix to- it seems just not right it seems to me Do I have any other ways of doing this?.

No- I can't cope with mine let alone follow another! I need a productive day tmrw. Can someone advise how I do my sill 'bed' once Ive tidied up the foam? it'll need something to fill & make a flat area, in front of the foam 2" twds back, on which it'll sit. Ive seen onoff's info, but its so neat.. & I can't tell exactly how he's done it.. esp to get flat & level as will be pretty important I guess. Then I can crack on with the C'tex/ that should be a productive & satisfying job > then onto the dreaded PB job.

No I didnt use the foam gun- cos the can I had way before to use with it was the other type, drinking straw etc. I might use it for the blue low expandi stuff (not got yet).. unless there's something else I can attatch the PB ins stuff on with instead.. thereby returnng it/ £25 refund as screwfix are good like this: I bought it for this foam can tbh/ got mixed up with your info. Could I use the no-nonsense grab adhesive to stick the PB ins stuff on the reveal 4 sides instead? would save me ~£35 or so if I could. Didnt get the gun cleaner/ poss not needed(?). Another day of little done sheesh- 2 battens on other wall (1 a total bitch that took off a lot of the other inside window reveal side wall I now have to fill/ had to re-attatch it 4x) & the sill filled/ impromtu zoothorn foam party. I plan to do this wall 1st before starting 2nd, as that wall has sink/ needed till last minute as it'll take me a good day or two to fit the new one & its unit onto the wall. (I did compression joints once last year.. but can't remember how the heck I did them).

Well I confess Ive used it before. many times. I get in a pickle with it every time. if you look at the Co's video clip to promote it- I'm not on it. Not the whole cavity- I stuffed a good polystyrene 'rail' in 1st so just a 4" x 3" area to fill.. then I just went beserk with the foam can. I think its these pills. I've just cut most of it off, & hit it with a hammer to make sure its quite dead.. but I'm left with an uneven sill 'bed' to put the PB ins stuff onto.

Ahhh.. love that takes me right back that did. This is what I was thinking of..

Foam cleaner?? but I dont posses such stuff! omg its abhorrant..

How long a wait until its cured/ ready to cut? Ive hit it with a broom- but its still coming at me..

Ive foamed the cavity, stuffed eps in there before. so waiting for it to go off.. then I'll cut flat (@ the 3 'resting' white things line/ the 3 do-da's the frame seems to be resting on- I left them as is in case doing s'thing re. support). Still unclear as to how to make the bed on which the sill rests.. " Tbh you could do your pb up to the underside of your new / extended sill and bed the sill down on some dot n dab low expansion foam making sure you do along the back, sides and front with a thin line too to seal the edges. " I undestand the 1st bit 'PB'ing up to the underside', but the next bit I don't get. What to do for the majority on which the sill sits, in front of the foam rear strip? and am I using 27mm PIR insulated stuff for the sill itself? Christ the foam's going nuts.. its like that scene in "Sleeper" when woody allen's beating back the huge washing machine foam with a broom!