zoothorn

Aha great thanks Peter that makes more sense.. I would've struggled with a load of new H20 bits all wrong with the white placcy stuff still connected up. Good so I can just get 2x H20 valves tmrw, & hopefully can make good progress over the weekend. If I get all the h20 bits at once I'm fuddled. One thing tho.. how long are these h20 valves? I need to make room enough for a pipe section > then RH elbow to get on just below the new sink, which is deeper (plus the worktop is less H). Or am I looking for a isolation valve with an elbow on then end of it/ 1 unit.. do these exist? ideal if so/ more room to play with.

Peter, when you say 'clean pipes up level with waste trap' I'm not understanding where you mean as I don't know what a waste trap is (googled it/ it could a part of the U bend, the black sections, or the strainer in the sink/ not clear).. so I'm not sure where you suggest to cut. There are 3 sections I have. 1st is upright, 2nd is across, 3rd is upright. Can you pinpoint from my pic, which to cut at? If 1st or 2nd.. how far up/ down/ across? if we say relative to the black under sink stuff (this is level with the 2nd across sections). thanks zoot

Where to cut pipes: Peter I think said "at food trap" so that could be @ either the last upright sections ~8" below taps.. or @ the start of the horizontal 6" bit. Both are same distance from the food trap (the btm of sink line, if that's what a food trap is). I can't get a cutter on the last uprights as pipes too close together, so is the start of the horizontal bits the idea..? or lower, on the vertical bits? how do I get the tap section off too, to see how to unhook the last upright bits-? I'm finding where to cut very hard to judge: if I cut before the horizontal section, on the vertical prior bits.. then I need to go way down to accomodate the new isolation valve > a section > elbow (to go R) > another section > elbow (to go UP) > another section > attatchement (whatever this is) for the flex pipe hex nut to then fit onto. That's very costly surely x2. That seems WAY overcomplicated to me considering I've got all the plumbing bits where they are/ in theory its just cut them @ tops, fit ISO valves > flex pipe fits onto this (but does it fit onto these?). Can you get isolation valves, from this H20 company, that incorporated an elbow in with an isolation valve? or are all isolation valves a short straight end-to-end

Peter that's an interesting idea, but I've gone 35mm holesaw, bought a crappy ebay one.. I'll be v. slow & should be ok. Is the idea with these the centre drill bit stays put into the centremark whilst outer ring's drilled same time?

Right gonna buy these/ if Im careful should be ok. Cheers onoff, good nod that after all!

Aha.. so you think I'll be ok with these amtechs then? its 3-4mm fancy composite/ plastic basically.

That's the same one you said don't buy at all costs tho!!

Actually the clip is for a granite sink, not tectonite (typo (no hang on you've added another clip! thanks newhome). Just seems like very hard plastic to me. Its got a tiny hole where centre is.. thanks alot Franke.

Composite s'thing.. maybe what Superman's red pants made out of iirc: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Franke-Aveta-1-0-Bowl-Cream-Tectonite-Reversible-Kitchen-Sink-Waste/142707276976?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Godamm hole.. I don't have the twatty green thing to knock thru, or a 35mm started already circle on it so I get the idea of the clip, but really this should not be something I have to do, I should be able to buy either a bowl L or R, with a hole in. its a ripoff I think. Ok will ponder what to do.

The waste trap being.. the bottom of the 'U'? not just after where they go sideways? can hs20 type isolators have an elbow in, or are we talking 2 units separated by copper pipe (or 3 units if 2 elbows + an isolator valve/ per side?). I was hoping it would be simpler tbh. I can't quite follow/ picture what the idea is.

Onoff its a composite fancy Franke. Couldn't the 35mm hole be made by a series of HSS 3mm holes/ hacksaw blade? I was concerned I was gonna have to go for one of those cutters, & an arbor too then.. they look scary (& £12 for 1 cut Im ever gonna use it for too!)

New 155mm connectors..

New tap will be almost smack in line with old one..

Understood. There is decent plumbing underneath ~spot on where the new tap will be tho. Its just a Q of guaging where to cut & doing it right the 1st time maybe, if going with what's there. I'm not sure how the PB goes onto this area tho so maybe your idea is best with this in mind. I'll weigh it up tmrw once I stick a pic up. I need a break- & I haven't done anything! Aprreciated.

This is my 1st ever house onoff. I have waited 25 years of scrimp/ houses getting farther away.. etc to -finally- be just able to get a small 2 bed house, far away from family/ friends, which had to be in the state its in in order to have afforded it. I have been here 2 years. Have I thought about moving? not one iota. Not one iota even having been bullied by neighbours from the very 1st day I moved in. A house after so much trying & time, & years of hopelessness thinking about never being able to get on the fkn property ladder in the UK.. isn't merely just a house: its FAR more than that. THAT'S why I can (mostly) cope with the sh*t Ive had to face (literally). I don't think you understand what its been like for those of my generation.

Onoff. I'm recovering form surgery/ in much pain again, I have 2 pairs of neihbours either side of me, ganging up on me on a dialy basis I am having to cope with, faeces etc/ that bad, & my work's dried up to a serious degree. Its not 'ooh Im depressed a bit'. I'm facing major challenges at the moment, & when it seems a few of you are ganging up on me too.. yes it tips me over into it becoming slightly depressing. OK?

I know what you mean newhome.. but that's fine if you know what you're doing/ have a plan for the next day, next etc & roughly can follow. But I'm in a different boat. I've never done any of this before. Each thing I thought relatively simple is instead a major headache.. the plumbing under the sink I cannot guage the size, therefore what needs replacing/ where to cut, & replace with what as all these recommended bits are new to me. Or the hob I thought a breeze to replace for a bit of progress/ relief from a week out of action staring at all this yet to do- is instead a total fkn n'mare: the new hob's 3" deeper than old. So only way to fit is to remove oven & sit it down way over an inch with gaps galore above & below, then how to.. seems only viable by taking the whole 3-unit thing apart & reconstructing. Ive given up & put old hob back in. Its becoming depressing & getting way on top of me, esp having to cut my ext cable now.

Peter, the standard tail 155mm things that fit into the tap > then flexi with a hex 1/2" nut on.. cannot fit onto the hep20 things. Is that correct? so the thing you linked to is a converter.. I put on the flexi tail hex end > into the hep20 isolator valve, with the 2 similar ends? christ on a bike.. I thought this was going to be the easiest bit!!

This is mixtap info (looks like a 1/2" guage hon the hex connector ends // M8 connections into the 2 tap inputs, by hand) https://city-plumbing-supplies.scene7.com/is/content/travisperkins/Kitchen-Taps-iflo-Kisdon-Monobloc-Chrome-Kitchen-Tap~X0016_323212_TECH_0

No understood- its another day of prep anyway tho, 2 days so far.. I need to get completely sorted before taking this sink unit out. I need to replace isolator valves, late tmrw before I get them > so thurs before I can contemplate starting. I hate to think how long until the new top/ sink can be put in once Ive started tho.. maybe best part of 2 weeks I'll have to account for to do this: not easy at all to live like so. I need to go right back & establish how the tops will fit together before too.. so best I start the whole thing next week now. If I rememebr to I'll put cam batts on charge each ev.. it takes a few pics, then AA's need to charge for most of a day again (old SLR).

Yes will do once AA cam batts charged/ end of day. Plus pic of the mixtap hex connector ends. Actually the plumbing is the best work bit of the house.. seems properly done, thank god. Thanks chaps.

The main reason I'm using the external cable thru the window frame (as it were), as it was before, is bc fitting an eternal socket will ruin the look of the front of the house. Its a stone cottage, an ugly socket on the stone face now I'm thinking on it more.. is a no-no. Ok what I'll haver to do is cut this cable at the hole in the PB I made/ fill, & cut at the external exit point (reluctantly as I use it daily). Then feed an extension thru the damn fkn window: Exactly what I didn't want (the very reason for this cable) but now have no choice it seems. It'll take me a week to do that socket externally too via the back of the 2G socket as I'm not proficient enough plus it means one heck of a powerful drill + a whopping long large bore bit.. I just don't have, or will cost me a fortune. I want to forget this cable for now. Its causing me stress now.

No, only a single socket high above LHS, which extends out.. so I may be lucky as it is. Understood/ good idea. I do get mice behind here/ no idea where they come from mind you.. so quite possibly this. I got these valve jobs https://www.screwfix.com/p/isolating-valve-15mm-2-pack/65251 so maybe I should swap for hp20.. I am a bit hampered under the sink, plus there are copper r-angles before the ~under tap upright bit, which need as much care as poss not to mess up: alot more chance with compression joints now I think on it. What I need, ideally, is to attatch the mixtap metal hex connections (presume std), onto something ontop the h20 joint thing. Can this be done directly onto them? or do I need to add another 15mm copper pipe section (I guess as short as poss) between the two? maybe theyre olive-based hex connectors anyway..

As I did ask for an opinion on my cable it seems, I accept your point (I thought I didn't ask for advice on it.. maybe I did then). Ok I'll redo it last/ when I take off this pb3. Maybe I can think of adding an outside socket instead, if that is the main job is drilling an angled-down hole through. Surely though any hole will need foam-fill sealing, which is foam next to cable itself-? the only socket it can go from, is this double under pb3 Im yet to extend tho.