zoothorn

Slow progress.. the plumbing area is causing hassle re. battens. I need some advice on how the heck to C'tex around pipes: surely huge gaps are a given, ie not wise to foam around 15mm pipes. Gun went solid- took it apart & after explosive episodes, foam everywhere (how much in the gun!!) & cleaner in my eye.. damn thing works again. I'll ask soudal if they want me in their promo ads. I think leaving the gun on the can, for as long as a week is n/g. I don't recall asking you chaps re. the time to leave on can MAXIMUM before it might cease up-? thanks, zoot

No seriously newhome, when you have sod n'bors who delight in seeing me clear up mess after mess of their cats, having seen them encourage them across my gdn, mess on my hands/ clothes/ into the house.. & catch the damn things eating food prepered in my kitchen off my worktops (& they're amused by this): seriously.. if I hit one with a stone, as I hopelessly try to, I'd be damn glad. (I'm a whippet man me but down on list 'to do/ get'.. alas).

Other sods cats are the worst roaming & sh*tting all over my flowerbed. all should be classed as vermin & destroyed with stones then drowned, then fire for 'afters'.

Good idea re. the sill/ foam- shame I used another whole can on the sill mind.. I can't help it, I think there's something wrong with me.

Really, 2mm?? shoot Ive prolly got a few more than that under PB 1,2 (3 coming back to). Yes it feels a relief to scrub all that.. I go super-do & even into the nooks of the fridge back 'engine' bits in base.. worst job/ critters had tiny placcy tub areas of p*ss & cr*p.. awful job. Just back to the Q re. the floor. As I said I'm pretty sure, ie it feels like, the floor is culprit no/1 re. cold. Is there anything I can do at all to address this now all is effectively taken up from it-?

Ok will do that. Progress seems snail slow I know.. but alot of horrible mouse bleach cleaning.. plus.. Im now into codeine withdrawl = v. bad sleep/ fkn grumpy, weak. At least Im back on the beer tho. Now 1 thing I haven't got due to my fiasco 1st time, is enough PIR for all 4x this bigger window sill area: only enough for 2x sides & either top or btm. No point spending £25 for another sheet surely, esp if I've no room to store remainder. Must be a compromise: Your suggestion if you will: PIR top + pb sill.. or PIR sill + pb top? (Btw I edited the mousehole pic, with a "^ C" for miCkey.. mm kay now?

Ok thanks chaps, & for the suggestions onoff- I'm doing the shelf mortar tmrw, so will do mouse hole as you suggest with a brick & the mortar + 5:1 pva/ water.. & a slip around placcy pipe a good idea, thx Peter. When you say soak the gap tho, do you mean a mist spray (as per pre-soudal), or a big soak with a paintbrush? (& with the 5:1 or water?) Progress today..

Hi onoff.. yup similar next to consumer unit (crabtree iirc): 1x BIG gnd in from above, to a big junction here > joins power Co's BIG gnd lead coming in thru wall below. Leccy this end good; my unit repositioned by a pro recently (& new Pwr Co's lead in below only months ago too). I've disinfected area, eps in sill cavity.. & foamTHING2 has been innitiated. If I can I now ask you further on this mouse hole job. I have mortar mix & glass jar if needs be (I guess so if mice gnaw > no likey?).

There's one that's thicker yes.. but where it comes from who knows it goes into the wall & up with the others. (equipotential bonding.. it was on the tip of my tongue!) I could connect them onto the pipes that remain before the valves-?

Chaps what's the deal with my 3 green/ yellow ground wires terminating at the copper pipes (or were- they're disconnected now that section's removed)-? I saw similar in the bathhroom iirc. weird.

I've prepped the window/ just got sill mortar to do tmrw (I'll foamonster2 sill cavity this ev).. so maybe you can direct me on that block-up idea tmrw. I'm sure the mice are in the wall cavites yes.. in theory then once I block hole up they can't get in, so RIP in cavities.. I'd hope. One thing I touched on before/ a Q: if mice in cavities, then I guess they have access to & from the loft above kitchen, bc the top of cavities are 'open' not closed as a basic build rule.. is that correct? I'm thinking along the cold getting in here, the priority, rather than mice per se. I put the tight fitting stuff around the pipes in cupboard back recently, as mice got in here (also on worktops now & then.. urgh.. so would be good to tighten this situation up seriously first off). Floor is concrete, with zero insulation I can just feel it so (your feet/ lower legs feel the cold 1st). Tbh I think this is where the majority of the cold's coming from, but, I guess I can't do anything about it can I?

Yes I can do the sill & some of the battens.. but lordy how the heck am I gonna go around all this stuff?? I can't think of it now.. it'll be next week anyway. I see where the wretched mice have been coming in now.. like onoff said around the waste wall exit place/ big hole next to pipe.

Actually that tap doesn't work.. not needed as main outside tap is separate, then these 2 ISO valves now. Was v. concerned about the electrical wires.. but seems they're grounds just painted. Odd place to ground them on the copper pipes: why? so I have 2 disconnected now as you can see. What should I do w'these?

Ok I had to rip alot of it up/ driving me insane tbh.. & progress. But a world of pain awaits.. look at the state of this:

But what's the idea next.. to take the sink out, or the top & sink? Am I 1st cutting the pipes at your blue marks, then taking sink up-? Im not sure whether I'm using some/ any/ most all of the pipework again.

I just pulled the damn grey pipe thing apart.. RIGHT I'm there.

There's an elbow outside yes.. but its 2 ft lower than this exit point of the grey @ back panel. Pink [] marks grey pipe exit inside cabinet. Inside the cabinet, grey pipe seems to be in segments, how are these fitted together.. if I could undo them up to this hole, I'm there aren't I?

Right will go look.. Ive got the white placcy section off, so just the grey section to figure out.. I think.

Ok Ive got the brass nuts undone, & 2 pipes can now come fwd. But the grey placcy waste pipe behind the white, is tight in a hole in the backpanel. If I undo where you said, @ the 2 white pipe points, this grey section will still be fixed onto something behind the backpanel > so unit cannot come out.

Is anyone out there who can help me out?

Ok progress.. Ive turned these 2 islolators 1/4 turn & water off @ both taps now. But I'm still unsure where/ how to go on from here, having found these 2 isolators. So can I proceed with undoing the sink with just these isolators as they are? is just using these 2 wee things to shut off water sufficient.. or should I be turning outside tap off (& one on the HW tank iirc)? Thanks zoot

I still cannot see how to remove the cabinets, or the sink, without tearing the shelf & back panel apart due to the pipes in very tight holes.. such as pic above, & here below.. Is that the idea/ rip out & replace shelf & back panel-?

I have found 2 valves here.. didn't see them before. Q: does this now simplify, or change my procedure?

The bottom across section of pipe, between the elbows, is only 13.5cm.. this is what I was worried about re. the HPs20 vlaves being maybe too long..

Got more issues to face before I can cut/ shift out cabinets.. jeesus I didn't look down here yet: