oranjeboom

My pocket prefers the cheaper ones too. Are your cheapo's wall hung also? Any links? Taking the wife out this weekend (lucky her) to some showrooms so hoping to check their website out tonight and ready to butter her up for the cheaper range....

Yes, it's not like she's going to be able to see them both at once and spot the difference. Strange indeed. But yeah, a bit like mine....everything has to be centred which is never going to happen! Well it does mean that she will need to be issued with another set of instructions for the other toilet...so I see her point.

Didn't buy a spare one at the time did you?? I'm sure the Brexit vote today will swing the exchage rate back in our favour....☹️

No issues with install or maintenance with either? Thanks - not a bad price either! https://www.ukbathrooms.com/products/roca-duplo-wall-hung-toilet-frame-and-cistern.html Not a bad look with 480mm projection. Did that come from Germany in the end?

I have a smallish downstairs bathroom that will only be 1.7m in width and therefore trying to push the toilet as far 'into the wall' as possible and also give the illusion of space (therefore going for wall hung rather than back to the wall toilet). Geberit or Grohe seem to be the best in terms of fitting. Worth paying the extra it seems over some makes. I like the Geberit up720 frame as it's only 80mm in depth plus boxing in/tiling depth. However, I don't particularly like their small projection ("iCon") toilet (490mm). How easy is it to match up with another toilet, e.g. shanks, twyford etc? "For installation of a wall-hung WC with bolt fixings set at 180 or 230 mm centres" So that means I need to ensure that whatever pan I have on the wife's wishlist needs to be fixable at either 180 or 230mm centres, correct? I don't want to have a garden full of non-compatible toilets that I need to sell on/return! If that is the case there is a Vitra short projection toilet (48mm) with 180mm fixings that could be in the running (subject to wife approval status). I then spotted that Vitra also do a Vitra frame that is 80mm: Vitra are Turkish and their warranties actually are better than other makes: Their range seems decent: https://www.ergonomicdesigns.co.uk/uploads/brochure/54.pdf and VP sell their toilets and frames also, so I can't imagine they would be doing that if they are complete crap. Has anyone have experience, especially the wall hung frame? Installation vid seems uncomplicated (no surprise) https://vitra-fitandforget.co.uk/fit-with-confidence/. Although it may need a bigger area than just the flush plate that needs to be removable for any maintenance issues (compared to Grohe/Geberit). TIA

He did mention they were flat out with work and reading between the lines the whole setup seems a bit chaotic so I suspect the stone cutter's been telling the templater(s) to keep their designs as simple as possible. I've got concrete floor which will have have a laminate floor which will need to 'move' due to the UFH, so the plan was to have a couple of support 'wedges' under each slab to take the weight. Oh, I won't be!! His boss will be annoyed that she's lost the work and won't be getting a penny from for the templating either. Well i could, but now that he's mentioned it to start off with I really have lost faith already. Any jobs he sends me to may not be his in anycase and the last thing I want his to be replacing his work later on. I'm not picky, but just want a decent service for a change. Just fed up with trades buggering things up and me having to deal with their sh1t. I always tend to be in the vicinity when they are doing their job, not looking over their shoulders but at least in the area to be checking to see what and how they are progressing. But have had to step in and say...."urrrrgh.....have you tried doing it this way....?". Just the other week I had to get the company who supplied me with a window to replace their bodged up beading (wrong lengths, dodgy angles). I went to get the gorilla a coffee and during that time he must have miss-hit the beading with his glazing hammer and cracked a corner of the glass. Just discovered that the other day. It's only 40mm long and you can hardly see it, but I know it's there and will have to get that sorted again also. Ineptitude everywhere. Back to the kitchen....thanks for the supplier links. Not sure if they have a local branch, but I'm going to go back to the kitchen company as they have a quartz supplier who were able to do the job (and miter!) but didn't have the same stone that we were after, so we'll just have to get a substitute. Thanks, but we will need some bigger slabs than that. I can imagine mitering all those small pieces will lead to issues!! No it was not Silestone found them to be very expensive. But yeah, the one we were going for did not have the slabs in jumbo format, only in standard (hence them saying we would be needing 4 sheets instead of 2 all of a sudden. Doh). Yes, requires more thinking, prepping and careful cutting. Overhangs have their merit but with our design, it will just look like an obvious failure.

Templater came our to errr....template the kitchen today. First of all after me confirming with the worktop company that they would only be needing x2 20mm quartz sheets for the work surfaces and upstands etc, it turns out that I am likely to need 4 sheets ( I did ask them at least 2x, but they were adamant!). Not a great start so now I'm waiting for a cost adjustment on that one in addition to the extra £300 for polishing for an undermounted sink. Main question I have now though is around the island which will have an upstand(downstand?) either end of the unit. both ends needed a miter join: So today I am told that he's never seen a good join, and that it's not recommended. He suggested to have a 20mm overhang which I guess makes his job a lot easier also! But clearly that's not what we wanted from the pics we sent the company, so why now tell us this?? I have seen quite a few mitered joins in show rooms etc, but is there a real issue with these in a real kitchen setting? What are people's experience? If it's properly glued and sealed and then smooth/polished on site what risk is there? Staining in the join if the seal wears away? This is the profile I was hoping for: I personally don't like seeing an overhang especially if the side is quartz also: For once I have not paid them any money upfront! I don't want to be back on here in a few weeks time with another quartz join bodge job!

have they now? That would be good. Just found it I think: https://twitter.com/SunampLtd/status/1077303328537825281

Did they really say that?? Wow... That's a bit like an F1 car being able to only drive at full speed round the circuit when it's got at least 90% in the fuel tank. "But don't worry Mr Hamilton, under 90% you can still toodle along at 10mph".... I did see someone's post on this left unanswered on Twitter. Poor show by Sunamp if this is how they continue to provide support.

"Allow for 60mm" was the answer I got for a roller blind. FYI!

Before I insulate my door reveal today and then plasterboard, I need to allow some space for the stack height of the roller blind at the top? By 'stack height' I mean: In my case though, the blinds will fit in the reveal itself and are likely to be roller blinds (potentially vertical blinds that stack either side of the door). There must be some standard calculation for this? for every 10cm drop allow 5mm of 'stacking'? Will depend on the material (weight) that may influence the size of the blind 'tubey bit' also. In this case the drop will be 2.1m and the doors open outwards. I'll do some phoning round later today but I don;t have much hope in getting much info from some spotty 16yr old. TIA

"The outer case and hydraulic and electrical connections are designed so that multiple batteries can either be stacked or positioned side by side and then connected either in series or parallel." For the amount of money they cost, it's not worth the risk trying to stack these unless you have a safe method to do so. I think you can arrange the plumbing from the side of the units rather than solely through the top. But in the confines of most domestic settings, you wouldn't be able to have sufficient clearance/space to stack with lifting gear etc. But even if you did, I would stack them on shelves rather than on top of each other.

Don't bother with all that hassle. Just do it after she's headed off to bed after a few too many ?and pop on some ear defenders. Next morning, tell her about that Saharan dust storm that hit your particular address. Who left the bloody window open?

? Stupid question alert! Pre-heated water from your ASHP --> Sunamp -->showers? Could another reason for the inability for the unit to top up at above 50% charge be to do with there being some issue with over-charging the PCM? A bit along the lines of overcharging nickel-cadmium batteries and that it was always best to run them down all the way before re-charging (in order to prolong their life). I know PCM is a totally different medium but whether there is an issue when re-charging at above 50% 'full' status? I'm not stating that it's going to explode or result in people showering under scolding PCM (don't want to initiate any such rumours!) but just stating that there must be a legitimate reason as to why the damn thing is designed not to recharge above 50%. To guarantee the 30k(+) cycles perhaps? If purely an oversight, then hopefully it's something that Sunamp can add to their 'to improve' list. If not, I better buy one of those timers from @Nickfromwales which he no doubt has a monopoly on by now: No doubt he'll have a "Compliant with all Sunamp units" sticker on the packaging... Could be another stupid question, but has anyone approached them with this issue? @Nickfromwales You appear to be one of their (unofficial) reps these days!! ?

@themods: Is it worth splitting this discussion into a separate topic? We've gone from bulging Sunamps to under-performing Sunamps and makes it a bit cumbersome to go back 12pages to see the history of either issue. May also be easier for one of the Sunamp reps to read/respond as needed (make the most of this free R&D!!!)....no replacement for Andy T? Have Sunamp responded to this issue at all? I've skimmed through most of the responses on here and as far as I can ascertain it's only an issue with eHw units? Or is it more to do with the controller that comes with that one (UniQ_SBC_01)? In which case that would impact eHeat and eDual also.... My eDuals arrive in the New year, so not looking forward to having to spend time 'fixing' this issue from day 1. Are these eHW units also? Where in the manual does it state this 'shortcoming' as I've gone through it a few times and can't see any references (I have version 2.0 of the reference manual).

Trip to the dump today with most of the cardboard, the remainder I will keep to wrap the fronts as protection. DH rigged up with the extract down the waste pipe and a humidity meter on order.

And what about also covering up the units with cardboard as well?? Most likely his ploy in not having to get rid of all the cardboard packaging I suspect! Ok, I'll lug the dh in there tomorrow and maybe seal the room off from the rest of the house. I should also have my MHRV system running next month so that should help.

Was hoping not as that's in use in the caravan 24/7. Was hoping to do without in the house as either I have to buy a new one or lug the damn thing between house and 'van. But if there's a real risk of damaging the mdf I will. Incidentally none of the mdf is in contact with the floor.

New kitchen has been installed so looking to protect as best as I can whilst other parts of the house are plastered and painted (late Jan). Last plastering was done 3wks ago (in hallway and a small area in the kitchen where a doorway had to be blocked up. Kitchen floor also had self levelling poured 2 weeks ago. Kitchen installer mentioned covering the units with cardboard to protect it from the 'damp'. Is this wise? I would think that would just attract/absorb the humidity and bugger up the mdf.... My thought was to just take the plinths off and allow the air to circulate around the units (there's a 50mm gap up the sides). House is sealed up but has no heating yet (Sunamps should get here in Jan/Feb). Any thoughts? TIA!

Received mine today so will have a play with it over the next few days.

Okay, bought myself a cheap one with 'semi-rigid' cable. Will see how I get on. I may be adding to my collection of one-time use only items with cable rods...

Hi @Onoff, Did you ever end up getting one of these? Just wondering how you got on. I've had a look on fleabay and there's plenty of cheap ones (camera cable + mobile phone) but no idea whether they'd be any good. Likely to be one-time use only so don't want to fork out big ££. Anyone else had experience or recommend a unit? Just need to have a peek up my cladding (4m) so need the actual cable to be semi-rigid otherwise it's just going to flop down as I shove it up the cavity. But something like this may suffice: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2M-5M-Semi-rigid-Endoscope-6LED-Borescope-Inspection-Camera-for-OTG-Smart-Phone/192502188909?hash=item2cd2064b6d:m:mr8pXFTkONHH1e-Eo7Pf--A:rk:4:pf:0

If you are looking to board over areas of your attic simply for storage/walking on, then you could just add some timbers on top of your joists. This may then allow you to add boards over the top without squishing down your insulation. That's what I have done in some places where I have needed to store stuff ("junk" as the wife calls it). You could probably also make your own loft legs out of some timber but it would have to be secured to stop any swaying!

So the LED lights that have a separate driver unit, away from the actual LED should not overheat as the GU10 type? I'm having to go for the above type for some ceilings that only have a 25mm gap between the insulation and plasterboard but may also fit them in the bungalow ceiling were I can have the driver unit sit above the insulation layer to prevent anything overheating (although they don't warm up very much at all tbh).

That's what I hate about these LED units. They may only need a small % of power that halogen units needed, but what a waste to scrap the ENTIRE unit when just the LED goes (for those units where the LED is not a separate bulb). So you then think, that 20-50,000 hrs will last quite a few years....obviously not. Will all retailers give you some kind of warranty? Will they honour it? I can imagine lots of cases where the wouldn't, ie, if you bought off ebay or Amazon. And then you will have a scenario where you need to have 2 spots replaced in kitchen only for that range to be non-existent. Replace the lot or try and mix and match with another brand/model. I'm sticking to these: Might darken the ceilings a bit and mess up my MVHR filters.