Iceverge

As a general rule anyone who says "thermal mass" doesn't know what they are talking about.

Put the electric fire into the fish tank. That'll both warm the cockles and be entertaining to look at.

What an experience with your designer. I hope it gets resolved. I assume you didn't tackle the airtighess yourself and didn't blowerdoor test it or fastidiously supervise the workmanship? The reason I ask is that that multi foil layers depend very highly on stationary air to give meaning insulative value. Try playing with Ubakus to see what happens if you put ventilated air in there instead. It'll collapse the U Value. What you've effectively ended up with is 50mm of Hemp insulation between battens,decoupled from the solid wall, giving I would estimate a U Value of about 1 W/m²K. It's lightly there's some wind washing behind the insulation too. Could you describe in words the exact build up for clarity please. EG 300mm solid wall 20mm render

Post a snapshot. I'm curious to have a look. More detail again, what product did you use. Any thermal pics would be interesting. It depends..... I believe you are in Paris, near other buildings. I would probably rule out EPS for the fire reasons you mentioned there. Rockwool and woodfiber would both be fine. My preference would be rockwool as it's more flexible and can conform to any imperfections better.

The climate change story has been identical for my whole life. 1. The world is heating up. 2. We're the cause of it. 3. We're doing a bit to help. 4. It's nowhere near enough. Repeat.. Am I missing anything or can I just go back to ignoring it so as to not feel guilty about sometimes I can't possibly fix.

Visual stimulation and inflated heat. One of these And one of these.

Can you burn me a copy?

Not all plastic push fit is equal. Some is utter rubbish. Hep2O however is top quality.

Can you just copy and paste a BNG statement from somewhere? I don't disagree with the principle of it. I disagree with paying an arm and a leg to get what must be a pretty genetic plan made out.

You aren't next door neighbours by any chance?! https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/40844-retaining-wall-inspection-by-neighbours-structural-engineer-questions/#comment-579797

For the amount of work that renovation will take your best option is a demolition and rebuild of a simple compact house. If you must stick with the current design central heating is a good chunk lower down the list than other issues. 1. What is you ventilation plan? 2. What is your airtighess strategy? 3. How much insulation can you fit? If you do a top job on all three of these you can really really cheap out on the central heating. Maybe an A2A split unit with 2 fan coils, electric UFH in the bathrooms and an ESHP for DHW. Assuming you just want advice on the heating. 1. Dig out all floors, install a good chunk of insulation 150mm PIR or 200mm EPS minimum and do UFH with closely spaced pipes in a shallow screed for high power output to suit a high heat demand house. 2. Insulated the suspended floor with this method. If the joists are shallow you can allow the blue membrane to droop below them for more insulation. Then install high output radiator's and large diameter piping throughout. Beware UFH over poorly insulated floors will be very expensive to run.

So long as you don't damage the seal or pipe Hep2O fittings are bullet proof. If it's not leaking after pressurising the system then it'll last for decades.

Airtighess tape need not be too dear. You don't need the preformed corners, just a sharp knife and some practice it's not to hard to seal them up satisfactorily. Regarding sealants, something that remains permanently flexible is the aim of the game. The sausages are typically cheaper than the tubes too. Most generic acoustic sealants should be ok too but I've never used them personally.

Good luck. Humans fickle species better, more lightly to be won over by charm than logic. People often object not because they have any particular gripe against the architecture, but rather that they are afraid of being irrelevant and ignored. You might have every bit as much success if you have a chat and take a genuine interest in your neighbours and their lives, jobs kids hobbies etc rather than the QR code. Let us know how it goes anyway. PS. please share your (de-identified) drawing etc. We're a helpful lot here but need payment in voyeuristic house pics!!

As the living ghost of @SteamyTea would say ....... "Beware the units, BEWARE!!!" m³ Vs m² Cellulose is about £19/m² plus install. I have a feeling an installed price from a supplier would be much the same as they buy in bulk. Don't forget the airtighess benefits it offers too.

Nope. Normal stapled VCL is fine.

Do the sums on heat loss for the house. believe it or not 0.01W/m²K isn't as consequential as you might imagine.

@Nickfromwales might have a contact? For walls it needs to be 60kg/M3. So approx £135/m3 plus install inc VAT.

Got a ride in a Polestar recently. The finish was on par with anything made in Germany. I wish some manufacturer would make something light <1300kg <4.2m long and <1.8m wide that could fit a whole family in , with good visibility for kids and driver comfy tyres sizes and didn't constantly distract me with Vista levels of nannying. I guess I'll stick with my 2002 Berlingo for now.

Good to see you following the numbers. They don't lie. Frametherm 32 is expensive though. Do the calcs on cellulose (my favourite insulant!) and mineral wool with a k value of 0.035W/mK. Much more bang for your buck. Yes. No. Yes. Yes. No.

In terms of energy saving I did the numbers a couple of years ago. The best bang for your buck beyond bregs basics are: 1. Airtighess 2. MVHR 3. 3g Windows 4. Roof insulation 5. Wall insulation 6. Floor insulation In terms of better performance than basic on a TF you could stick frame it on site and build whatever you like.

What a pain. It seems you are managing it well. Good luck with the pour.

I don't know about Hardie plank but in metal roofing and artificial slates the quality of Tegral stuff (cedral/eternity) would be at the higher end.

It's a very poorly understood topic. Unfortunately it's a common misconception that the moisture that causes an issue comes from outside. Assuming you have dealt with gutters + pointing etc this is never the case. It comes from inside the building, from breathing, cooking showering etc. This airborne moisture condenses when it reaches a cold surface. It is carried on drafts and air leaks around the house. This is why PIR is bad news unless you are prepared to hermetically seal it (Airtighess!!) If you leave a hole the size of half a penny that allows damp air to leak consistently you will get dampness behind the boards. As it's cold and sandwiched between a layer of miniscule vapour permeability (foil) it'll be forced into the exterior walls. Bad news. The walls will be much wetter than before the interior insulation. A flexible more vapour open airtightness layer like lime parge will be much more resilient as the walls will still have a drying route into the room. Mineral wool and gypsum are still massively more vapour open than foil faced PIR. 10 mm Lime render has a SD value of 0.1m. 12.5mm of gypsum is the same. Aluminium foil on the face of PIR is about 200m. In other words 2000 times worse. Lime parge, mineral wool and gypsum will allow the wall to dry inwards. Theres many way to skin cats and many wonder products but if you get a handle on the actual numbers the you can make an informed, financially balanced choice.

Be very cautious of foil faced PIR as an internal insulation. It has very very low vapour permeability and will actively trap any moisture that is behind it permanently. Unless you are willing and confident to seal every single screw hole and edge of it I would stay away. A more preferable method is a parge coat and a battered cavity full fill with mineral wool batts. A parge coat is a thin coat of wet plaster applied as an airtightness layer. You can use cement or lime but in this application lime would give more drying ability. Use plastering sand and (NHL 3.5) at a ratio of 2 sand to 1 Lime. Mix it to a creamy consistency and use a trowel to apply a thin coat. Alternatively it can be applied with a sweeping brush but it needs to be watered into a slurry first. Floor to wall junctions, internal abutting walls, window and door junction, penetrations and joists ends should be airtighed to the parge coat with a plaster-able tape or airtight paint. So. 1. Seal all windows and doors and junctions and penetrations. 2. Apply a parge coat. 3. Fix 70*42mm battens centres with hammer in frame fixings. 4. Install all wiring and services. 5. Install mineral wool batts. 6.Install sheets of plasterboard. You can play with the batten thickness and spacing required to fit your batts and plasterboard and ceiling height.