Canski

The company is https://www.douglasandpeters.co.uk

I visited a site yesterday and was very impressed with the windows that were nearly half the price of the next nearest bidder. They were wooden sash windows and very sleek and well finished. I'm not sure if I can put the company up on here or not so will send in a direct message. If an admin says its ok I will post the details here for others to see.

I've done quite a few EDPM roofs for myself in the past. The basic flat ones are a doddle. Add any upstands or penetrations and it gets a bit more complicated. I've not had a leak yet.

See Oakwood garden rooms on youtube. Great base solutions on there

I visited a small developer friend of mine today and he was shocked when I said I was considering a grp roof. He swears blind by epdm saying that he’s had grp rooves twist and buckle and crack. Then I looked up and saw that his food lantern was clad in chipboard and I got distracted.

I got lost at ‘empty and furnished’ 😜

Apologies I meant approx 9 months and 20 days and it still hadn't been transferred so I asked for it to be expedited and this took approximately 10 days.

No and the the solicitor advised against complicating the matter by expediting it and ten days later took my advice. So 20 days 🙄

yes they should have left the forks on and used a proper pallet to stand on. Amateurs.

Tada !! yes they need to be slit too. More delamination

10 months for my TP1 to go through and that was after I expedited it.

Sorry I meant over the internal side of the periscope vented below the floor beams. Thank you for the quote tip.

Finally, 10 months after I handed my dosh over, my land was registered in my name today. This has only become an issue due to the council subjecting me to a section 106 agreement. This happened about 10 weeks ago, 3 months after I submitted my planning application. This process has been and I guess still is stressful. I have been getting no sense out of my solicitor nor the county solicitor ( yes I am paying for them both) so for 4 lots of £3 have just been scouring land registry and downloading title plans and summary of title documents. The confusion that the professionals have created is unbelievable. I think the situation is all clear as day to me. Now the lawyers have locked horns in a dispute over the county solicitors charges and I know that I am paying for their squabble. I am confident that I am now able with my knowledge to be able to sort this out tomorrow. I just feel that they both have charged so much money for so little service.

Sorry I haven't mastered the quote function yet. yes correct ....you need to slit the board for the tie to sit in plus some more for the thickness of the tie then push it back and clip it on. All good until the boards are 5mm over sized and springing up off the board below because the plastic has delaminated from the PIR top and bottom and is acting like 2 springs. in 4 courses of boards you are 20 mm out of gauge then the fun begins ... chuck a standard joist height in of 2400 mm and you have another problem unless you have 300 mm joists and hit the tie course at 2700mm by which time your board will be at 2730 mm. OK I may have had a few bad packs on a site or two but the size of the first site has slipped my mind but the second was about 400 m2 of facework. I find that its better to ensure that the last 2 brick courses below the beams are in coursing bricks and set the vents out correctly to the facing bricks and use a 600 mm PC lintel in the top course over the vent. All done sealed and tidied before the beams go on and you can put your bet your bottom dollar that very few of the beams leave room for a vent to line up with the facework.

Xtratherm tongue and groove boards are not easy to work with. They tend to be slightly oversize causing problems with vertical spacing or wall ties. Always allow a bit extra width on the cavity as well to allow for a gap between your retaining clips and the faced brickwork. We charge double for fitting these boards over traditional cavity bats and it’s still not enough.

I'd disagree with porcelain being slippy when wet. I paved a large patio at my previous house in porcelain slabs and it wasn't slippy at all.

If they are your structural opening heights then not one of them works brick gauge. There must be a reason for this but without section details of the openings it’s difficult to tell.

Ouch

It drives me mad that some architects still use imperial size opening widths.

It depends who you ask.

Post and Beam 😀

No problems with ties on that then. You would just have to make sure the openings work to P&B gauge. Whatever floats your boat.

Are you using blocks in the inside ? I am used to laying old imperial bricks ( as well as metric) and the vertical tie spacing can be problematic.

It depends what you are cladding it with. Many timber frame buildings are clad in brick and the engineerings would come up in front of your blockwork with a cavity. On top of the engineerings would be faced brickwork or rendered blockwork. This would hide your blockwork below your timber frame.

Has anyone recently had to go through the process of moving a lamp post and could give some idea of the costs involved ? Yesterday I noticed that I have a lamp post smack bang in the middle of where my new driveway will be. I can't move the driveway so the lamp post will have to go. Would this usually be done at the time of creating the new dropped kerb ?