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Construction Channel

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Everything posted by Construction Channel

  1. I never doubted you for a second
  2. I prefer the blue but i agree you may as well make them safety rated. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AQIN6ZM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on my hat every day ?
  3. you guys have already seen most of this, but because I had to at least start making some kind of video again before I get the wedding footage here's where we currently are with the stairs in the form of a very shaky and long-winded video;) enjoy
  4. the way this thread has gone is exactly why this forum is great, If only I was clever enough to ask first before I start hacking things up myself
  5. I agree on the early pour but not on the reason, you go early so you don't have to deal with the previous person's delays, ask for it to turn up at 8 am and it will be there at 7:50, ask for it at 1 pm and it will be there at 2-2:30, ask for it at 4 pm and it will turn up at 6 if you are lucky but more than likely 7:50 the next day. as for wetting it down I cant see the need on strip foundations, maybe on a slab as the surface percentage is relatively high but for strips, 99.9 percent of the concrete is going to be completely unaffected by the spraying so all you are really doing is making yourself a wet trench,
  6. What exactly does mr wise owl intend to dig the 700mm wide trench with? 600mm is the standard and almost any groundworking firm will have a digger bucket to match that, 700mm sounds like a person that’s very good at drawing pictures but hasn’t had much real world experience of digging trenches. Just my 2 cents.
  7. In our area it is a minimum of 650mm concrete irrelevant of the depth. 10” of concrete doesn’t sound like a lot to stand a house on to me, what is your ground like? Don’t get me wrong I have taken a lot of houses down with less footings than that that haven’t moved at all since they were built but regs are regs.
  8. what if he asked really nicely?
  9. now that is a very good idea, he might even want to keep an eye on it and come and supervise
  10. I still can't see how 80 grit would be anywhere near good enough for a finishing trowel. a half gone off ceiling is going to be something similar to a good few thousand grit wet stone. fair enough take the corners off with a low grit but if you want to shortcut a new trowel into a finishing trowel I reckon you need to go to at least 800 grit if not a lot higher....IMO
  11. SSOOOooooo....... how's the washing machine?
  12. I'm with Nick, they get sharp but I wouldn't say they need to be sharp, it's probably more important that they are smooth and IMHO 80 grit isn't that smooth. I remember years ago planning to make a mini treadmill with a leather belt to get wide tools super sharp. I just haven't needed to make it yet
  13. I would hope it was all cured before you put it in there. If not I would replace the whole thing before swmbo gets home
  14. They can be your new thermal trousers. ?
  15. It probably would look more “normal” but I’m making it all from trees I have cut down, and although trying to make a veneer sounds like fun I don’t think I have got the machines or time to try it. , the stair was always going to be a mix of woods so hopefully it will look ok.
  16. Annoyingly I need to get these built so I can carry on with the boring building work. I too enjoy woodwork but this one is a bit daunting as I have only got a limited supply from this tree. The more I cut up the more I realise I may have to have ash risers. (Iv got more than enough ash). Not the end of the world though, it might add a nice contrast, or it might look shit but we won’t know until it’s all finished ?
  17. Well Iv started. The little plastic bit is fantastic. Now to choose and machine up the other side.....
  18. I have never heard of slates curling from drying out. We’re they definitely flat when they were laid? You would normally get a kicker from nailing them on too hard or the previous slate having a thick top, worst case is the slate has actually snapped so you would need to pull it out with a slate rip then relay a new one on a lead or copper tingle. ( assuming this is standard slating not nulock or fake slates)
  19. Hang on, I haven’t taken out for the treads wedge yet.... then it will be the best one.
  20. God I’m good ? so issue was this rounded corner. This is where my riser will meet the underside of my tread so I really need it to be a nice square corner, question was how to get around it without making a new jig. and this is the answer I have come up with. The clever part is that the bit of Perspex isn’t as thick as the 30mm bush so it still runs on the original jig and not my new very cunning cut outs. First cut goes goes up the left and around clockwise ( starting on the tread would risk tear out on my problem corner because the way the bit is spinning) then an I just flick it down to its secondary position and cut the rest clockwise again. now I just need to replicate the recess on the other side and this is the best jig on the market if your stair has exactly 200.8mm rise, 225mm going 42mm treads and 18mm risers
  21. I didn't want to be seen as marching in with ill-deserved confidence...?
  22. anytime. and good on you for standing by your decision, the bit that's amusing me is that everyone is just assuming you BIL is actually a "good" plasterer. (not that I'm saying he isn't, but I know "professional" plasterers that I wouldn't let ice a cake let alone have a go at my walls) as for making the stairs, i have got a cunning plan how to get over my issue, its so cunning if it works it might be worth looking into patents....... I wont but in my head it is going to work really rather well....
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