trialuser

I bough what I now asume was a grey import and the built in web server setup page is in Dutch, I can't see an option to change it, but there is an option to upgrade the firmware via the USB socket. I don't know where to get the firmware though, it's not on the Brink site that I can see. It also doesn't have an front control panel so all control is from the app or the 4 position switch. No a huge issue as when it's setup and running no real intervention is required. I didn't realise it was a grey import when I bought it. I'm happy with the performance, seems to just work.

Not saying this is right or wrong, just an observation, but. I imagine you reasoning is to deprive a fire of any fresh source of oxygen? But given that in fires, people almost always die of smoke inhalation before they are roasted, might it be a good idea to leave the ventillation going to remove some smoke and introduce some fresh air? Or perhaps fire is known to travel between rooms in MVHR ducts? Although most will be a star layout to a distribution manifold. Genuine question.

I haven't read all of this thread, but here is my tuppence. I have a dry ouput of my fire panel (so you could use a relay if not using a panel) connected to a zone in my intruder panel and programmed as fire. I then get a notification if the zone is triggeered in my intruder alarm app (Texecom) You could also use outputs from the intruder panel to switch other devices on or off, via relays or not, depending on the device. In a previous house when the kids were young, I has 5mm leds in the ceiling every meter or so from bedrooms to exit doors which were switched on in the event of a power cut or a fire activation. They had a 48hr 12v battery backup power supply. Seems to work ok.

I agree with you, that is exactly what I have done, although you may be replying to the OP

Yes there is a seperate thermostat - but Mitsubishi call it a thermocouple so I suppose it is not just a bimetallic type thermostat. It measures the temp of the water and passes it on to the controller which then decides whether or not to switch the contactor depending on what temps / settings are programed. Not sure where it is. On mine, the only feed to the immersion is via the diverter so it can only switch on when electricity is being diverted or if I switch the diverter to manual overide.

I have just replaced the immersion cut out on my 8.5 ecodan 250L cylinder. It is just a safety cut out, set to about 80C I think. (see pic) There is no way to set the desired temp on the cutout. The water temp is set in the ecodan controller and it gets the signal from a thermocouple in the cylinder, which switches a contactor feding the immersion. You cant connect the feed from the diverter directly to the immersion, it has to go through the contactor which means you need to change the settings to tell the unit to use immersion for hot water, not the ashp and set it to be on during solar hours. This then stops the ashp ufh circuit from working as it thinks it needs to heat the hot water. I replaced it with one which has the conventional temp settings and also a safety oveheat cutout enabling a direct connection to immersion from the diverter. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223408932236 It's a simple dry plug and play push in replacement.

I've got a Brink, but this type of post is excellent, thanks very much.

I found this video helpful when setting up my ftc5. It looks as if you have got your offset turned down 2 degrees from what the curve is set to which also wont help. You could also try changing it from comp curve to say fixed flow of say 35 degrees just to test if that works. Sorry I don't know anything about external controls.

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99% sure mine just screwed onto a 3/4 inch isolator valve. Perhaps have a cup of tea and try again 😁

I believe its their safety device whereby if it detects an abnormal flow of water, eg a leak within the machine, it cuts off the supply. As far as I remember, mine just screwed into the existing house plumbing EDIT, Aquastop

My advice is that you talk to your air con installer at an early stage. You will need to use an f-gas bod. There are restrictions on the max pipework length to each indoor unit. The insulated pipes (a pair to every indoor unit) are quite bulky, easily kinked, the insulation is easily torn (and then at risk of condensation forming) and should be a continuous length from external unit to the internal units.

Not necessarily, it will sometimes read those and get upset if it thinks youre speeding, but it doesn't brake. The phantom braking seems to happen at any random time (when using cruise control) for no obvious reason, sometimes a shadow on the road or something you can guess as a cause. I daren't use the auto steer functionality, but I do like to use the adaptive cruise control which is when it happens with me. Tesla call it traffic aware cruise control and I understand it uses cameras to monitor all around, not just the distance from the car in front. I live in rural Dumfries and Galloway and it really doesn't like the roads around here. Probably the wrong car for me at the moment, should have kept the old Volvo. Charging cost is much less than diesel though, and would be a third of the price it is at the moment if Octopus would give me a smart meter, that's another gripe !!!😊 Apologies to the OP, I've gone well off topic, I'll shut up now

3 main reasons Phantom braking phantom braking phantom braking and then, minorly, auto windscreen wipers which dont work, unpleasantly hard suspension, very expensive insurance, over intrusive corrective steering applied for my safety, massive depreciation, all contact with Tesla service has to be done via an app with very long waits for appointments, very few physical buttons for controls like wipers heating and lights, crappy voice recognition and a few other thing which will make me sound even more petty. Good points are charging network and nippy to drive. I knew most of the above before I bought one and thought I could live with them, but they are starting to niggle, and the phantom braking is terrifying.

Currently not that many cars can accept a 22kw home ac charge. Tesla model Y for eg is 11 kW max. Don't buy a Tesla by the way :-)

The ME Engineer app gives this for L9

Cheers

Apologies if I'm being thick, genuine question, why would you connect a battery to a consumer unit?

Ha - I've seen those footings before when I was searching google earth for something in nearby Drummore. If it's anything like this area, the Machars, just across Luce bay, it will be very wet. I don't know if that influences the full fill insulation decision. I'm building a timber frame extension with metal and timber cladding so not the same as yours. The stone walls of the original cottage here can get a bit damp sometimes though. As for trades, they seem to work in D&G time, they may show up when they say but almost certainly wont. My experience of getting a real man in for some plastering wasn't great. He was slow, not much cheaper than Oxfordshire, and not very good. I think there is little competition so there is no shortage of work and no real incentive to stay on top of their game. Tip, assuming you're not a local - for a long time I thought people thought my name was Ken. It turns out that Ken at the end of a sentence means something like 'you know'. Stranraer is a sh1t hole, (and that's coming from someone who lived near Didcot!) although it now has a screwfix and a Domino's so things are looking up. But my wife likes it here and land is cheap so you can buy some space around you. And the people are very nice. 🙂

He / She has a 3 phase system, so 16A per phase, 3 x 3.6 on G98. They state a 6kW array (panels), so could possibly be single phase 3.6 kW inverter legitamately over paneled on one phase, or could be a larger 3 ph inverter correctly installed over 3 phases, or a larger single phase inverter 'overloading' one phase, which might explain the installers actions.

My understanding is that g98 is 'install and notify', g99 is 'apply and get permission, then notify of commissioning' I don't see why you shouldn't be able to notify the DNO yourself of the g98 install. The form is easily downloadable, a guide is here https://www.enwl.co.uk/globalassets/get-connected/apply-for-a-new-connection/generation/micro-generation/guide-98_form-b-completion.pdf You can look up the type test ref for the inverter on the ena website. I've just done a g99, which is a bit more involved as it needs maps and line drawings. I would have thought a secretary at an installers could do a g98 notification in a couple of minutes. PS, They should have submitted it within 28 days of installation, suggest to them you will ask their certifying club to investigate.

Yes thanks. I'm also on the hunt for more ammo if anyone has experience of this with SP energy networks. I believe they also are a DNO for some areas 'down South'.

No, I said I was not fussed about how much export I was allowed. I won't get paid anyway as I've been waiting since Feb for Octopus to install a smart meter. They just keep saying no appointments available as a shortage of engineers. I chase them weekly. I intend to self use / store as much as I can.

That's interesting, boils my piss, they make the rules up as they go. SP energy networks (in Southern Scotland) have twice told me categorically that I must use an mcs accredited installer, the offer letter which details my export also states that. I suppose it could be that mine was G99, has anyone else with G99 appproval been compelled to go MCS? One other thing, I see there are lots of snazzy drawings in this thread. My DNO specifically asks fo a single line drawing, they are not interested in blue and brown lines representing line and neutral, or even pictures of the components, a labelled box will do. Cheers.

Well done. I take it you're not with SP energy networks in Southern Scotland then. They won't accept G99 on the portal. But they did accept an EVCP.