Nickfromwales

+1. Smut hidden.

Easy enough. Just take the 2 sides and the head out, and then push the window very gently (you need two people for this, both wearing gloves and goggles), and lift it up and out. Then, once the unit is out, you can pry out the remaining bottom seal. This you should be able to persuade back in afterwards, but remember to use a block of wood and never hit the moulding directly with a regular hammer (rubber or nylon faced hammers are typically in the window fitter arsenal ).

OK, stupid question maybe, but why block when it could be insulation and thin coat? What's the spec for cold bridge mitigation at the cavity, where it meets the posi's, if you go block?

You can’t build just for yourself, there’s all kinds of nonsense that can catch you out, things ‘they’ want you to do/install/future-proof against etc.

The part where it’s complete is not sat on the padstone. The T that’s been left is the end load bearing bit. Quite hard to comprehend that someone would do this to a steel specified by an SE!

If this is disabled “adaptable” vs “visitable” then they may want a 33” door on at least one bedroom and the FF bathroom, if there’s one. A job I did a while back had this classification and we had to swap a 30” door on the bathroom and put a 33” one in. 2 winders on the staircase, so I asked how the feck is somebody in a wheelchair getting up there?? Just crazy. If a wheelchair user bought the house then it would need a lift installing, which means a refurb. BCO in Gravenhill wanted a visitor in a wheelchair to be able to access the CU!?! WTF….. clueless tossers at that site.

Have you tried it with the link out?

@Gus Potter, has this steel just been destroyed by the undercut and diminished web?

Says to link t3 and t4 at the boiler to ‘reset’. Best to try and default it all, but likely a call to tech support will sort it while you’re there.

One get out of jail option here is to leave it on an MCB, and fit an RCD socket. If the ‘dodgy’ cable is to be left on for any amount of time. Link Sounds like this is a split load board from previous comments? If so, and it’s “high integrity” you can put an MCB before the RCD, same thing if it’s a dual RCD CU. No more nuisance tripping then.

Have you tried lowering the DHW set temp to its lowest setting in case DHW priority is blocking it? Is the boiler cycling back>forth the cylinder?

Just to clarify, the FCU is not needed, just go straight from C > C2.

Did much the same thing testing an in-screed wire heater. 30m of a 50m extension lead rolled out from the site cabin and left to run for a couple of hours. Centre of the plug top which I’d put onto the heater wire was just bubbling like a pot on a stove, had a molten middle with a small swirl of smoke rising from it. Only 1800w combined, but constant. Cooked the lot. Heating worked well btw

I feel like we’ve just time-warped! I guess I was replying whilst it was being skimmed lol. 🤷‍♂️🙃 Looks good, happy days.

Id have got some mini architrave and installed it onto the newel at the red line, so you’re not having to make good to the stairs and landing above that point; just stays as is in gloss. You’d just create two sides around like a crown with a feature moulding to allow the plasterboard to be finished against and keep all the new works below that red line / ceiling height.

Who's the installer? DIY?

I met electricians on site last week who wired the immersion on to a 13a plug, and said it’s fine. Client wanted that on a ‘smart’ plug-in adaptor. I smiled and nodded…… I posted a pic a while back of a Willis heater is wired to a fused spur, and I got chased off into the hills…… Changed that to a 20a DP switch (16a RCBO) and slowly came out of hiding. 13a plug top is rated 10a continuous? @ProDave?

Just be mindful that the finished wall will be soft, so point impact will damage it. Nothing stopping you from going a-la simple EWI methodology and whacking 120-150mm of EPS and then mesh + thin-coat system.

Which is a bit daft tbh. I wouldn’t entertain building my house to take a service duct, a good M&E designer / consultant should work the system designs to suit what was cost effective and practical to build. Also, if you’ve gone turnkey then a lot of floor and roof sections will be delivered as cassettes, so that’s out the window completely then. The radial installs I always go with only need semi-rigid at 92mm or less, and zero need to sequence installing long lengths of spiral galv ducts in at the construction phase. That also doesn’t allow for any alterations on the fly. The other issue with large bore galv systems is the need for multiples of satellite anti cross-talk and acoustic attenuators which have to live in areas you’ll never get to ever again. The valves closer to the unit usually need choking, closing them up, to allow the ones furthest away to get the flow they need (balancing) so that can make the closets ones quite notable, acoustically. Not a ‘fan’, lol.

Maybe thicker wood fibre sarking boards would do it. @ProDave, didn’t you render over wood fibre?

Indeed, often as clear as mud! My very good sparky friend from Oxford (he’s wired a few BH members houses by coincidence) always took all 4 cables into 6-way push fit Wagos and then the 5th wire reconnected the socket that became the junction box. This stopped the cluttered cabling at the socket terminal and made the process far more digestible. I’d recommend this approach for a competent DIY’r, but you MUST be sure to mark each core with a sharpie and use a combination pliers to push each core fully home into the Wago, or you end up with a crappy connection and likelihood of arc’ing or overheating. Many ways to skin this cat, just needs competency and knowledge.

Yes, I also looked at this and it appeared to be a thicker set of timbers for the lower cripple and a double aside those, but it was very difficult so see from the pic as it got blurry when I zoomed in so I just tried to scale-by-eye from the adjacent timbers. Glad it’s been clarified. 👍

How many cores is the SWA?