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Nickfromwales

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  1. Nickfromwales
    The jobs yours Note : When you 'call' a tee fitting you say the straight ends first then the centre Eg a tee that sits in 22mm vertically rising pipe work that has a 15mn spur coming out horizontally would be a 22x22x15 tee Just saying
  2. Nickfromwales
    Ttfn.
  3. Nickfromwales
    With one of these. Don't forget the insert.
  4. Nickfromwales
    Most PRV's are factory set at either 3 or 3.5bar. If you have over that ( static ) then I'd run at around 4 bar as that makes quite a difference to the flow rate. Only noticeable if there is say 5-6 bar incoming.
  5. Nickfromwales
    New tiling thread started to keep this on topic.
  6. Nickfromwales
    @Barney12 Larger tiles won't follow wonky walls. 6 and two 3's tbh as I find it's quicker and better with large format tiles but I've been doing this for around 23 years so I would say that ;). You need to identify the highest point on the wall and make sure there is enough adhesive behind the ones at the lowest point to ensure the wall will be flat. Off to the grindstone now, post some questions and I'll pick this up later
  7. Nickfromwales
    Carrying on from here
  8. Nickfromwales
    A little boxing in at the side of that cloak wc and IMO that's a great place for the stopcock and PRV to reside long term. . Can you take the outside tap from there too? I'd recommend doing that even if it puts the OT in a less convenient position. Reason being is that the tap will have full bore mains BEFORE the PRV, and leave the shower etc less affected from the OT being used. If possible..... 25mm mdpe to 22mm brass stopcock. ( if you use mdpe stopcock you'll need another fitting ( internal reducing set ) to get to copper and you'll not be able to solder right next to it as it's nylon / rubber etc ). 22x22x15mm ( centre ) tee picking up the loo and outside tap. 22mm PRV. 22x22x15 ( centre ) tee for 15mm Drain-off cock. 22x15mm reducer feeding into existing 15mm drop. ( don't forget to get a pressure gauge with the PRV so you can calibrate / reset at maintenance intervals / one-glance check for correct function ).
  9. Nickfromwales
    600x300 wall 450x450 floor The camera adds 10lbs
  10. Nickfromwales
    I'm easily led
  11. Nickfromwales
  12. Nickfromwales
    Both tank fed then No problem there then, and no need for NRV's. Just link out if / when you upgrade to an UVC.
  13. Nickfromwales
    Sds drills aren't supposed to be used for core drilling That's a recipe for a dead drill. Ask me how many I've done in because I was too lazy to set up my diamond drill. . Better still......don't. Why are you using a TCT core drill bit instead of diamond? And @PeterW, that TCT drill 100% requires hammer action, that's how it works. The drill for coring out with a TCT bit needs to be a slow turning low geared drill with a heavy hammer action. A standard sds drill will be too fast and not hard enough on the hammer. Ask your hire centre and they'll recommend a drill to suit. Get extension bars and drill from one side only. If you try and join up from inside out, even with a pilot, you'll be surprised at how far out it'll be. Trying to re-align / ream that right is pure punishment and a royal pita, again, ask me how I know. Fwiw I'd just hire a good diamond ( not TCT core ) bit and accompanying diamond drill set and it'll fly through in one clean operation. If your sds is slipping now, it'll be in the bin at the end of this job.
  14. Nickfromwales
    +1
  15. Nickfromwales
    The vent can be anywhere. That guys just plumbing it in in the knowledge that it'll work perfectly well just with the flush velocity of the the WC's alone. I've run some near perfectly flat, one for over 5 m's straight, and I'm always surprised at how well they still perform in real life. Agree with Tony, that he's not used the space very well and could have got some basic falls in there with ease. Maybe he'll be doing it again if BCO gets a butchers at it . Is this being checked by BC dave ?
  16. Nickfromwales
    Heres the most recent ones. This is is the mirrored cabinet with the chrome set in ready. Ignore the black gaffa tape lol. Next I cut another piece of box section chrome plated trim to the width of the cabinet underside and stuck the led strip to it after soldering the wire on. I applied mitre bond glue and spray to fix the led strip loaded piece of chrome trim into place. This is the view looking upward at it. This is the view front on. I did the same on the top too. 5m of this 50/50 super bright strip on amazon for £13. Fill your boots. And all lit up Looks the bollocks in the dark. The sticky-outy light that came with the cabinet is a marmite fitting tbh, I don't like them. Hey-ho. And behind the free standing bath you can see in the previous images I added these, for that jer-ner-say-kwa. Bingo bango
  17. Nickfromwales
    Pressure and flow are location dependant tbh. You should be 'given' 1 bar static at least, and should receive around 11-12 litres per minute of dynamic flow. You can check the latter with a weir cup
  18. Nickfromwales
    Any chance to get it redirected so you can upsize the incoming cold mains to 22mm?
  19. Nickfromwales
    Good point, a lot of failure is down to shite in the valve. The strange part is that the stainless gauze filter is on the incoming side normally so doesn't usually allow over pressure events, just poor flow / low pressure. You really shouldn't fit any bypass as that will allow full range pressure to get to sensitive equipment. We all know that 'temporarily fitted measures' always end up never getting changed to the way they should so I'd advise against that tbh. All relief valves will have installation practices clearly stated, as in "thoroughly purge all primary pipework prior to commissioning the valve" etc etc. That takes care of any lumps of solder, flux etc, and then the integral stainless gauze filter in the PRV takes care of any subsequent crap. Annual cleaning of the filter and checking of the set / operating / actual pressure is also paramount. On the PRV's I always fit a primary and secondary pressure gauge so I can see the incoming and secondary pressure differences. If they both match, your in need of maintenance ( or your pressure is lower than the set value of the valve ).
  20. Nickfromwales
    They had 'top plumbers' fit the original UVC . Then it went pop in the upstairs airing cupboard. Oopsy.
  21. Nickfromwales
    Replaced an UVC in a £1M house, and the guy said the pressure was high. I out my gauge on the outside tap and it went to 10bar and the needle bent so badly I had to bin it. Surveying the static cold mains pressure is absolutely critical and should never be overlooked.
  22. Nickfromwales
    25mm to 22mm stopcock. Brass or plastic. NOT 15mm All cold feed pipework to UVC should be 22mm, is this possible ?
  23. Nickfromwales
    If this is a G3 certifiable UVC install then there's far more to it Options are.... 1) new install. 2) retro fit. 1).... Stopcock. NRV. Drain-off cock. NOTE: This is where you should now tee off for the outside tap so it is not affected by the pressure relief valve. Ensure that the outside tap has an integral non-return valve. Pipework to UVC location. Cold feed to multi-block with a local isolation immediately prior to. ( 22mm 1/4 turn lever valve ). Multi-block located within 500mm of the UVC it serves ( G3 / manufacturer requirement ). Balanced cold feeds all to be fed from the balanced output of the multi-block ( mixer taps / shower valves / thermostatic devices etc ). Therefore no requirement for non-return valves on any mixed feed outlets as all mixers will be at the same potential, regardless of static or dynamic fluctuation. 2).... Stopcock. NRV. Drain-off cock. Secondary Pressure Reducing Valve ( in addition to the manufacturer supplied one which has to be mounted at the UVC position as stated above ( so no, you can't nick it and fit it here )). Pipework to UVC location. Cold feed to multi-block with a local isolation immediately prior to. ( 22mm 1/4 turn lever valve ). All house water pressure is governed by the secondary PRV so the cold feeds can be tapped into anywhere in the house without causing pressure differential issues between hot and cold whatsoever. Hot outlet of UVC MUST have a single check non-return valve in line with flow. This is a final failsafe for instances where the secondary PRV fails and mixer taps then can back feed the UVC and over pressurise it to the point of failure. Retro fit only. Failure to adhere to these particulars is what keeps me in a job .
  24. Nickfromwales
    Swings and roundabouts here Dave . Thanks anyhoo.
  25. Nickfromwales
    Can you get extension leads for the 4 core led cable off the bay? Then you can mount that with the bath gubbings
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