Nickfromwales

Better explanation here

No probs re the wiring diagram Basically a TS is usually heated or hot 24/7. Pipe runs from the TS normally go from the upper 'flow' tappings and return again via the lower 'return' tappings. Any run of pipework from those points will inevitably rise or fall along the way, and that makes convectioncirculation possible eg there will be a 'draw' of heated water from the TS and it'll circulate through the pipework completely naturally. Same way that old heat only back boilers would heat a copper tank, eg via two large bore ( 28mm ) circs which required no pump to get the heated water up and back. Quite often these systems had basic central heating systems connected via 22mm pipework and that had a pump to get a higher velocity flow. Quite often there would be a customer complaining that radiators were heating up ( upstairs only ) when only hot water was selected ( eg summertime ) and that was caused by this convection crawling through the pump. An anti-gravity ( single check non return ) valve would stop this with ease. The additional ZV's I mention for each Ufh circuit you have provides the same anti-gravity mitigation, but selectively, ( as in you can run upstairs whilst downstairs is off and vice versa / all off / all on ) via electronic control. Clear as mud?

If the outer pvc is only scorched then I'd leave it tbh and just 'whip' it with white electrical tape. You could do more harm that good cutting and linking it through so if it's not burned to the actual coloured cores then don't go any further. If you want to protect it, just buy a choc box and use that as the mechanical protection. The first pvc layer over the copper is electrical protection, and the outer layer is for mechanical protection only. . Hence the phrase PVC/PVC when ordering cable types.

Most things do .

TLC sell them in smaller quantities

Just put the boards back down . If there's no leaks and the water is getting where it's supposed to then it's ok to leave it imo. .

The foot soldiers are usually just drones tbh, and dependant on which one you get you can just direct them accordingly. Usually tea and biscuits to start can help.

Fwiw I think you'd regret trying to go wireless. Have you tried to get a mobile signal in the new house yet and compared it to standing outside?

Why don't you get them to connect it any old way with a bit of slack, eg say the connection is going in the attic bedroom. Let the massive thunderbulbs connect it and bugger off. Then yank it back out and fish it in through the duct / wherever. Simples. They are a bunch of awkward useless idiots, more so on the admin / logistical side than the guys on the ground, and were responsible for 99% of the problems we had when installing new business telephone systems. That included leaving solicitors and doctors surgeries without incoming calls / no connection ( when converting from analogue to ISDN etc ) at all for 24hours or more etc and really not caring about it. They're a bloody nightmare. Let them come, do their usual crap, and leave. Then you redo it your way. .

Intumescent collars on the duct at the plenum / ceiling junction? Simple and effective as a terminal means of control. If the mvhr fan gets shut down then doesn't there still exist a path between plenum and atmosphere? If so, would heat / convection circulation then naturally draw through the ductwork, regardless of whether it's extract or inlet?

I'd seriously consider smaller ensuites to 1&2, and have the soil and vent pipe outboard unless it can be first fixed sympathetically to the new split design. I'd also look at two windows, one and one, and making each one say 300mm wide x 800mm high so both rooms get natural light and an opening window for fresh air circulation. Having any bathroom without a window isn't preferable IMHO. Go for smaller cube or rectangular showers and if there's room left at the end of each one them, then that's the best place for the towel rads so you don't burn your arse when brushing your teeth. Some very good advice from @Ferdinand there. , particularly like the idea of first fixing the study for conversion later down the line. Deffo go all ensuite now, as converting the study later will get you ready for retail sale comfortably. You could even use that as a sales tool " you choose the suite and the tiles, and we'll fit it ready for you to move in ". Leave some strategically places hot / cold / central heating pipes in the ceiling void of the ground floor 'mother of all mower sheds' for attachment to later in life, likewise with a gas / large electric cable for the cooker ( if it ever becomes self contained eg you take to long building it and YOU end up living with the mower ).

Buy the monument one and see how long you keep your one afterwards The black rubber ends come off the Tommy bar so you have to glue them on. I went for a few turns of insulation tape tbh, so I can take the bar off if needed by simply removing the tape. .

Im a big believer in engineering a solution to suite the remit Peter, so yes your right, it can be done that way. The reason I haven't chirped up is that it's not easy to do and requires a joint / multiple joints to achieve. It's also not preferable to have an AAV ( automatic air vent / release ) in any position other than one of free and easy access so it can be inspected / replaced etc.

I have this one It's got much slimmer profile heads and takes up far less room per rotation. I can do taps by feel alone with this one, and the one above I launched after owning it for a day or so. The difference is night and day

There are some make / manufacturer 'name drops' in those images, but these are all just random 'net grabs FYI.

There are, I'm sure, many different types A typical installation for ceiling penetrations ( duct / light ) etc.

This shows the buckle / hasp a bit better

The ones I fit are identical, mostly required on HMO / student rental refurbishments. They are steel belted and have a robust buckle / hasp arrangement so re the comment about them being surrounded by bricks / similar I'm not entirely sure that's the case. These are capable of expanding during a fire, and provide that force by means of expanding against said collar. Expanding entirely to close an opening is only possible when the pipe itself deteriorates ( eg the heated / melting plastic of a soil pipe softens and aids the total closure / compression ) but I'd certainly not use the term 'crushes' tbh as it's possible for someone to wrongly assume that it has the strength to do so to any random pipe. One of metal construction for eg will not crush as it will have immense strength when force is applied equally to it's outer diameter Only nit-picking that statement as this is a particularly important subject I've fitted these collars under the watchful eye of BCO's and I can tell you that they're accepted even when fitted to two layers of fire rated plasterboard, with no other mechanical fixing, and no brick / block work / similar solid construction. These will work in a TF house as well as in any brick built house, AS LONG AS THEY'VE BEEN FITTED CORRECTLY. Heres a random internet photo to demonstrate such an instance. The only requirement that the BCO wanted, on the couple of holes where these were fitted into solid walls, was to insert these into the void and cement them in. Then for the mechanical fixings ( screws / other ) afterwards

If it's the same tap connectors that came off, they should 'fly' ( ) back on. Are they SpeedFit tap connectors? Eg plastic not metal, or are they flexis?

Manifold can be above the loop, but not below it. Eg, you can have your 1st floor manifold drop downstairs for a single or multiple loops without a single issue. I did a big job ( 100m2 ) Ufh downstairs and manifolds under the 2nd storey stairwell upstairs. Works perfectly with 8 loops going down. Air is the biggest problem so the vent on the manifold needs to be the high point. .

3 100% valid if my kids are anything to go by Its like a scene out of ghostbusters..... "never cross the streams" ☔️

Private browsing and having zero to do with 'unsocial media' are your friends. ?

Easy tiger.