Nickfromwales

Yup. Use square or radius ( quadrant ) for the horizontal runs, but ONLY use square for the vertical. Where two horizontal radius trims form a corner you get what I call "the dagger", the point at the corner. In a metal trim this is a flesh eater. If you come vertically with the 3rd radius trim you cannot form that corner ( unless you use a pre-formed 3-way junction piece from the same trim supplier ) without it looking like a pigs breakfast. However, if you come vertically with a square then it forms a 90o and marries up perfectly to the dagger point, making it a neat, safe junction.

I'd still recommend sticking with plastic, regardless of colour. There's a lot of complex cuts / angles etc around the room and doing them in metal would even test my patience / skill.

Trés bien Rodney. Youll thank me this time next year . Probably.

That would work. As long as air can get to the vertically falling slug of water then vacuum deficit would be taken care of. No probs with that arrangement, as long as the branch is a Y with a 45 in it to rectify back to 90o. Essentially your then sending the 'products of nourishment' from pan 2 towards the corner branch, rather than stalling at a regular branch and then relying on the fall ( from the vent ) to direct the flow.

It would never happen. As soon as the slug of water has cleared the first bend you'll get what's called an "air break". That means the water cannot physically occupy the whole diameter of the pipe and therefore cannot create a vacuum. Vacuum issues are typically only associated with vertical drops after 1m fall or more. I believe ( iirc ) BR are happy with a vertical drop ( invert ) of 1300mm before they require an AAV. The T option ( Y-branch ) will work perfectly well. ?

Any reason not to ?

That'll be fine. And unless the invert is in excess of 1300mm, you really don't need anything for air admittance at the pans, just a vent or AAV at the top of the branch.

Aw.....Shucks "That's 350 quid, plus vat, plus materials, plus consumables, plus fitting, plus labour".

I was JUST about to say that ?

I think these would do it. Make the branch lower than the soil so you deffo don't get any cross flow. TBH, that issue is more problematic with a 180o offset rather than a corner branch, but if it was me ( and more importantly you have the room / distance ) I'd still endeavour to 45 into it to make a 'sump' at the branch.

Fack knows Check out this bad boy. Come out of this with two M&F bends to rectify back to horizontal and then you'll have no issues with what Joe mentioned ( which is with merit I assure you ).

You mean a corner branch ? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/111911500778?_mwBanner=1

Use Meths after the multisolve. M-S seems to leave a little residue sometimes . Oh, and I also use mitre bond on the back of the LED strips too, just a dot every 25mm or so. The adhesive strip / backing holds it in place long enough for you to smooth it down and activate the glue with the spray activator.

1 or 2mm plastic packer between them and mitre bond together.

PS, the thicker the better. Can you squeeze 30mm in? Check with front and back / French doors which open in to the house.

Yes. The generic function is the same, just check which has the best insulation value tbh. Disconnecting thermally from the slab will help a lot so I'd certainly consider it as a favoured option. Remember the tile will still have a natural chill to it, even with the ~25mm insulation, but it'll be far better than without. Id still consider UTH in the room with the quartz, but go for a 50w perm2 kit so it's just a very low background heat. Another advantage of the insulation boards will be reduced heat loss, cheaper running costs, and a much faster response / recovery time ( so you can literally turn it on / off with use rather than leave it low throughout the occupied day ).

Fresh bit of ply with hole in the right place, and the stud milled / chiselled out accessingly. "Don't make me come down there" ?

? Mill the wood out.

Can you lose 30mm of head height / increased floor height. I'd heartily recommend putting at least a 25mm insulation backer board over the concrete, before the tiles and adhesive. Why pay to heat a floor forever when you can pay once to insulate and reduce the discomfort of the tiles underfoot, once and for all? Id REALLY look at negating the UTH ( under tile heating ) if at all possible.

Ok, explain why the conduit is 'immovable' ? Id chew my right arm off to get rid of that 16mm rip.

The trims get sikaflex'd to the tile and mitre bonded together. To stop them 'flapping', the reverse gets bonded to the rear of the alu LED profile. . Bomb-chuffin'-proof. Go to doctor. ?? Oh, and go for a 10mm tile trim as you'll need some void for whatever adhesive you use.

?

Yup So the tile is behind / under it. Better way to seal it all too

Now THOSE are what you call MATES .