Nickfromwales

The 1200x300 please. Haven't seen one.

Use elbows . That way you won't be grazing the pipe on the concrete whilst trying to wrangle it in.

Do you have a link? ?

Please do ?

I wouldn't fit these in the main rooms, but for storage / wardrobe space etc they're a good option. Masses of light, great dispersion and non-obtrusive ?

I've seen similar 600x600's and they're great. They came naked / frameless and were supplied to drop directly into a modular suspended ceiling, with an optional frame for installing onto a regular ceiling. With LED it's usually a good idea to buy a sample and see what the light is like as they do vary and can be anywhere between yellow and blue tints.

When you switch off the preheat tanks you then revert to the DHW performance of a straight 38kw combi . The boiler is a Vaillant 938 ( 38kw ) so not 35kw as mentioned. You wont get premium DHW performance without the preheat so consider the annoyance of anticipating when youll have to activate / deactivate it according to demand. Also best to remember that all these devices ( combis / uvc's / TS's / instant inline heaters ) are ALL fully cold mains dependant. E.g. Crap water pressure / flow in = crap performance, regardless, so make sure you design a system based on that as well as the devices ability to provide X litres per min DHW. Regarding the plumbers suggestion of two boilers.....utter tosh. I would SERIOUSLY reconsider moving forward with a plumber that so poorly understands your remit.

Let's not get ahead of ourselves eh? ?

Good idea. CT1 has its place, but not the better choice here. . Lightly sand the area with 80grit, clean with meths and smear the surface with sikaflex immediately prior to completing the install. That'll ensure max contact and adhesion.

Silly you, you clearly meant to say "electrician" .

Maybe chamfer the nuts to better suit the mating surface, then plenty of Sikaflex not CT1 ( better adhesive imho ), and turn the inserts down into the washers so the profiling stays as needed and the inserts get rotated rather than the nuts?

Another endorsement for the Bosch quick change set. Expensive but good, with the only bad bit being the clips on the box both broke off within a year. New box on order though, so not too problematic. I bought the extra long pilot bit to offer a more precise 'start' without the need to pilot or squint under the cutter to see if your on target.

I buy the multipacks from screw fix tbh. In fairness though I do use a lot of bits and the second they get slightly blunt they're in the bin. For my needs its not cost effective to be setting up a sharpener but for you it may well be a good idea as the sets tend to have one of each size so you'd need to keep them in good order. Bummer is that the sharpener is only good for the HSS bits really and the others become bin clutter as soon as the edge goes off them. Get a good set of HSS bits and a multipack of flat bits and your pretty much covered, and for SDS / masonry, I just buy off eBay 3 or 5 at a time and reorder when on my last but one. This pack is what I go for usually, but I have just bought a nice set of Milwaukee ones for 'best'. Nobody but me uses them.

Not on my shift ?. Just my opinion, but they look dire at best and should never be on show. I've seen many lazy bathroom fitters use flexis to fit chrome towel rads and it looks terrible. Plus, push fit flexis are nowhere near as flexible as compression flexis so i tend to avoid them altogether tbh. Bit of a design flaw there ?, as the top rail would constantly be full of air. They needed to tee the 'vent' out of the top right corner to be getting full marks ? Some mothers do 'ave 'em ?

I always fit FR spots below hallways & stairwells and habitable rooms, and always in kitchens / utilities. If your making a hole, make it safe afaic.

Sounds like a plumbing job me old China ? You could recess the brackets but it's not cricket ?

Will rotating the brackets take you from the deepest depth to the narrowest depth ? The brackets are usually an offset L so laying them one way makes the radiator project less . Pipes should take a bit of 'gentle tugging' if the bracket will get you half way there.

My thoughts exactly tbh.

Just thought back and the 6w ones deffo did come with unsheathed input cables. Why the hell didn't they just supply these drivers with those lights?!?

Hmmm. Seems that inconsistency may be a supplier problem too. The ones I got ( 9w ) as follows... Very handy twist to lock connectors to separate lamp from driver. Cord grip kind of provided by the orange cable clamp / cover Cable has writing and a CE mark and an SAA number which I googled briefly and got this. Long and short, the cable is certified and cosha for mains use . I had 3 of these running in a tiny bathroom. ( 1100mm x 3000mm ) and my DAB didn't blink when switching on / off and I'd foil lined the room with PIR sheets. I'd use these again in a heartbeat. Oh, and 6 for £40 delivered. Tres bien x2

Is it actually glorified speaker wire, or is it 230v rated stuff? Any writing on it? For testing, put it in a large Tupperware box and seal it in, but put it outside or do NOT leave unnatended. The unit will usually have the heat from the light adding to the running heat of the driver, so recreate that as best you can with the driver sat over the light. Much as leds are supposed to run very cool, these units do get quite warm. I bought these ones and they're fine. The 9w have a fantastic output. FWIW I just made them off with Wagos straight onto the twin and earth cables . No complaints from me, and just ordered 4 more to go in my boys ( work in progress ) attic conversion, due to the lack of head height. These also have excellent dispersion vs standard recessed GU10 / MR16 downlights, and can be bought IP66 too with no additional recessed depth. Remember that, afaik, you need to supplement these with additional fire proofing measures as they're not fire rates from what I can derive. Anyone know different. ?

Dewalt went through a VERY rough patch, but their current pro range is very nice stuff. The consumer stuff usually has shitty little low power batteries which do ok for diy but you'd end up killing them if you use it for a build etc.

Heed @8ball 's words about not getting excessive amounts of pva solution on the adjacent faces .

Relax chief, the one you have is bombproof ? Do you have the 80ish mm half round clip that holds the soil connector onto the metal frame?