Nickfromwales

Get ready to grab your tickets for the January show!

Indeed. Odd way they’ve gone about it!! Wont budge though, but should have been cordoned off not left open to access by the clients Steptoe & Sons building Co. at best.

You have more chance of meeting the pope. As an ex installer, I noted that they were very difficult to get technical information out of, and were diabolically bad at responding to clients (unless there was an online (ergo it had an element of 'public awareness') matter which got seen to in the wink of an eye.........) They now actively avoid engaging with the public, and do not attend public shows / events AFAIK (other than trade events for bulk sales).

Manufacturers state so, I guess because heat rises and the shape doesn't lend itself to having a lot of volume over the highest part of the coil. A few installation drawings show a stratification pump (a bronze pump which goes between the hot outlet and the cold inlet, triggered when the ASHP is running in DHW mode) which stirs the cylinder up and should give very good results.

If you have surplus, then absolutely perfect! Just to get a little acoustic decoupling, but a well designed system should already have this consideration included inherently, eg slightly oversized unit & lower fan speeds etc. Belt & 2 braces is always good when something makes noise / sound / vibrates, and I could think of nothing worse than choosing a cheap Chinese MVHR and putting it in the attic of your new TF home to find out it is really nasty and audible. Literally NOTHING worse than that happening. Sleep is precious!

Won’t do torque, specifically, but also won’t break your wrist. Will be quite a beast for general boat building imho. If you remove the impact element, there are plenty of cheap corded combi / hammer drills with electronic torque, just do a quick Google search. How accurate they are is down to buying one and using it tbh.

The issue you’ll have with a 230v drill is how big (long) it will be and how few places you can practically utilise it. The above kit for change of £100 will probably do you down to a T, and even though you probably won’t, you could sell it for £60-£80 after you’re done with it. You’re not going to get the tool you want any cheaper than that, I very much doubt, plus this is an impact and a combi!

Buy a used impact off eBay and a couple of new batteries + charger (Chinese copies if you’re brassic) and move on to the next problem. A corded impact would be punishment from hell and utterly impractical to use around a build site. Once you buy batteries and a charger, the naked tools, especially used, are cheap as chips.

👊

If you contact Wavin and tell them you’re fitting a 400mm lever in to it they may say ‘behave’ and dissuade you from using them. They’re for taps / close to wall items where they won’t come under undue forces etc. Brass here, all day long mate!!

Yup. Likewise lol.

If the rubber isn’t covered with it then you’re ok, but I never ‘lube’ these up as the idea is for the rubber to take against the brass and stay put.

Use zilch here, these go on dry, or the rubber washer displaces and you are Donald Ducked.

The Hep2o tap connector is what I use on these, and the spare / alternative ‘square’ washer goes in the bin. Sorry to be late to the party, just crazy busy atm.

Particularly good advice if... So you have some paperwork to support methodology & execution. Most BCO's will just be happy with that tbh.

If the insulation absorbs sound waves, then the more you install the better the results. Air does not arrest sound waves "fill 'er up!!"

For rooms where you’re actually concerned about acoustics, why not also use sound block plasterboard too? Not much more money for belt & braces, and only needs installing on party walls (between habitable spaces) if you want to conserve funds. Me personally, I’d put SB boards on every internal wall, and white on ceilings of FF, but again I’d revert to SB on ceilings of GF.

I think it was just popular, and possibly there were not the alternatives available 'then' as we have 'now'. I've used dry cement based screeds for the last 20+ years without an issue, so I will be interested to see how one of my build clients self-levelling cement screed turns out tbh. I will continue to avoid anhydride screeds personally, just cant see the attraction myself 🤷‍♂️

Nothing will stick to the laitence, no primers / adhesives / bonding agents, nothing. If a floating floor is going down, or carpets, not a problem.

I think there’s an unwritten law about buying shit tools from a supermarket. 👎🤔😛

Play with fire, get fingers burnt basically. Some just take the piss and look surprised when they get collared. 🤷‍♂️

It’ll likely be brass, so don’t go half at it or you’ll lose the little bit of meat you cut into. Pilot and thread extractor all day long! Start with a tiny drill and work up to not tighten this stub in any further.

https://www.theheatpumpwarehouse.co.uk/shop/heat-pumps/air-source-heat-pumps/7-kw-panasonic-aquarea-high-performance-mono‑bloc-j-generation-1-phase-r32-wh-mdc07j3e5/ Panasonic 7kW for £2.5k + the Vodka And Tonic. Reverses for cooling without much thought / input, but if this is a let property you’d need to decide the merits of cooling (or just not announce it until you perhaps adopt the property later down the road?).

I’ve been planning a suitable punishment lol. @nod, please tell me that you’re going to put all the locking collets onto every SINGLE fitting?! If not, the punishment will have to be quite severe, sorry.