Nickfromwales

You simply have waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much spare time. Caveat; if it works and you sell for billions, I don’t want this comment to affect our friendship. Buddy.

5-6mm is like 2 x £1 coins on their sides…… Go and take some time to recall stepping in and out of every other doorway of any person you’ve visited in the last 20 years, and then reply here with record of each instance where you tripped over 10, 20, or more mm of thresholds. The results will tell you to put the magnifying glass on Gumtree and rejoin the rest of the population.

A chuffing tarpaulin. There, I said it. Have the installers asked you to do this?

Just beware, making a house uninhabitable can cause foreclosure on your mortgage, as it’s secured against a saleable asset. Once you remove electrics and plumbing, and rip out the kitchen, it is no longer habitable and no longer saleable as a residential dwelling. Stage the works around a jerry rigged kitchen sink, WC / basin / and some sockets still in operation, so the minimum criteria is upheld. Read the small print of your mortgage agreement twice over.

MBC and English Bros don’t, neither does Lowfield iirc. So “No”, and nor WOULD I want to use it as it’ll dry out and open up gaps, is shite for fixing regular wood screws into, and is heavy a feck until it eventually dries. Stick to good stock of C16 and C24 and be meticulous at the inner and outer sole plates, for DPC and cold bridging, and you’ll be fine for a half century.

The centre caps just pop off. Small flat blade screwdriver as said above; just don’t stab yourself in the other hand when it breaks loose.

Kinda conflicts with all the perforated, leaking copper heating pipes I have dug out over the years. There are loads of different laminate floor suppliers offering different finishes over solid wood or MDF, so you'll get something to match the LVT. DON'T use the chrome plastic collars as the chrome wears off with even just mopping etc.

Pay your carpenter to make some out of basic materials, simples; but make them strong as they'll be in for some use / abuse.

Same we do on every job. Plenty good enough tbh.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-pillar-round-head-high-neck-sink-taps-chrome/1045T?tc=ET2&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=19822795373&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPxbBfOOgbFQZBDBKKlA-OBpI&gclid=CjwKCAjwu53SBhAhEiwAJzSLNq2b0AkAWVP_gdXS5RH9YqsnjAX9ggTsoc_CrZZqxd6OSvDZs1eQtxoCBFEQAvD_BwE £20 brand new......

Absolute steaming dogshit.... AVOID!!!!!!

Cementitious products, especially when laid wet and allowed to cure, will corrode the copper prematurely. Gently chip away around the pipe and clear it away, just a few mm, and then buy some pipe collars to cover up cosmetically.

I'd rephrase this and say "a very large proportion of trades won't communicate / take such initiative". There are a rare few out there who it would be unfair to tar with such a brush.

Trim back enough to get at least 40-50mm overlap of scrim tape. It's that which will prevent cracking.

You'll spend this, and possibly more, if you opt for a supply and fit package. DIY will save you a lot, as it will with everything else in life. I've done some big houses with multiples of units, and the bill has gone above £20k, but these have all been very high spec installs, and have operated in total silence; I had to stick a bit of A4 paper to an extract, and watch it being held there, to prove it was running on one previous project. Their neighbour's (also just moved into a brand new home) couldn't believe how inaudible it was, and were resorting to turning theirs off at night as it was a lemonade job. As with anything, buy cheap, buy twice, or accept the compromises and keep quiet.

Not to the detriment of the functionality A lot of "cheap" designs have fresh supply vents almost immediately above doorways of bedrooms etc, and near zero air flows across the room. If you need to have a long run, and want quiet operation, you simply double up on the ducts. This is something sewn into the heart of the build fabric, with near zero chance of 'putting it right' retrospectively. It will also be on 24/7/365 for the rest of your life there, so maybe not somewhere to cut all of the meat off the bone Buy a good quality Brink unit from Air-Haus.co.uk, oversize it(!), and make sure to install proper attenuators on the supply and extract ports for super-quiet operational sound in the rooms.

Typo edited 👍. I’d use a rotary wire brush and then a rust convertor, and then Hammerite / Similar back over the lot.

Do exactly as you say, but instead of sand and cement I use dry lining (dot & dab) adhesive which is far more robust and doesn't fray like S&C does. Use a load of plasterers scrim tape to bridge between masonry and new works, and wherever fixings timber back to masonry, use plenty of solvent free gripfill behind the timbers when fixing them back to the wall, which will go off rock solid.

Happy days. Glad you're sorted

It can't do its own things, it needs to be off a balanced cold feed to comply with G3. Plumber sounds like a tit tbf, but if you handed him the spec and he did not grace you with his time to read it, then he'd be told to GFH and pay to change the manifolds on his own time and money. If you didn't then you've fallen onto your own sword.

Ah! Ok, different beast and a but more forgiving Clockwork screed guys were shit hot, and I’d recommend anyone in their catchment areas to use them. Cost was very reasonable too.

+1 to all of the above. To use a friend means you need to risk losing that friend, as you need to be ‘that guy’; if you expect him to become responsible, punctual, think on his feet, foresee issues, prevent disasters, deal with conflicts, oh and be a wet nurse (and be able to stay calm and pop back in any spat out dummy's). I’ve just been on one such similar site where the client was trying to pilot the ship, whilst in work full time, and let’s just say it went ‘quite badly’…… Builders won’t want to principal over other trades unless they’re putting a reasonable % on everything these people do, as they are directly responsible for 6 years after completion as the PC. Underpinning needs specialist insurances too, and you need to see a copy of this, and confirm the cover is in place by phoning the insurer, BEFORE work starts.

Structural If you’ve LVT going down without a feathering (smoothing) compound, then you will likely see some ‘tide’ marks when the sun shines across the floors. Did you rub the floor over with a carborundum block first, at least? That’s the minimum I’d ask for. Agree there are some very good screeders out there, but not seen a floor good enough to omit any feathering out.