Nickfromwales

Yup. After 45m iirc, and if further away you must provision for the appliance to be able to drive in, in a forward gear, turn a full circle, and leave in a forward gear. If our bin man can reverse the refuse truck half a mile whilst swigging a coffe then you have to ask WTF here tbh 🤷‍♂️.

Give it a few months and you’ll be off to the races here. The stupid questions are the ones you don’t ask, and then go and make a mistake with, and then come back to solve said mistake…. So don’t be shy and ask away!! Welcome aboard 🫡🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿👍

Don’t buy the cheap Chinese dewalt copies (with LG at the end of the model number).

The go-to on most sites is the basic dewalt one:

You cannot compare an open pumped system to one running off a cold mains, as the pump is a huge performance booster and usually way OTT for what you actually need to be able to shower under, adequately. The static and dynamic flow rates will obvs be affected when more than one outlet is opened simultaneously, so no shock there, and obvs the more outlets you open the more dynamic performance you will see. Simple maths methinks! I’ve spec’d a full house plumbing arrangement with a 400L UVC and the cold mains is hovering a bit above 2.5 bar static. I’ve suggested fitting a 300L cold mains accumulator to maintain flow rates as I know without it the showers will suffer. Cold mains supplies aren’t infinite, so this is always down to diligence of the installer; they need to put on their thinking cap before just going ahead with a knee-jerk spec and installation of kit that won’t meet expectations. The only way you’ll better the performance here is with an accumulator.

I was referring to the drip in the threshold detail of the window / slider itself. Check with the manufacturer to see if what I show is the drainage pathway, if so, all good and the threshold can be fully bonded down.

You know you’ve got problems with cold draughts when your ‘outy’ turns to an ‘inny’

Yes, it is. But better than 3 or 5! I’ve got AT test scores in clients builds as low as 0.25, so I’m not advocating a poor (terrible) number, just using a minimum threshold where any worse than that should mean you don’t bother with MVHR as there’ll be no heat to recover after cold air infiltration.

Speak to Sika and see if any of their family of Sikaflex mastics would be better here. Rainwater management will be the constraint here, but possibly won over if you use (prob defo need to) a continuous bead on the inside, and then a stop start bead on the outside to allow drainage. There’s a lot going on in that pic, if you look closely.

Should look like this.

If under a warm / hot shower I doubt MVHR on boost would give you any discomfort in an open room. Cant really understand any other rationale for positioning MVHR vents, other than to be as far (diagonally) opposite the door as is possible; to move the most amount of air through the room. Maybe avoid steel vents and go for a powder coated aluminium if in the shower / steam zone, but I’ve not seen these affected by rust tbf as the constant airflow seems to rid the system of moisture anyways.

I think they’ve confused an electrical extract fan vs MVHR outlet.

Is the rest of the dwelling airtight? If not, just manage draughts and you’ll be fine without? If airtight, have you MVHR?

How are they oversizing if it’s 5/5? 🤷‍♂️

I’d be fitting a 7kw minimum here, but also a buffer for when the heating just needs a tickle. Fitting a 5 currently for a home that prob needs less than 3, defo needs a bit of headroom. A worry that your installers are proposing this tbh. If you’re not under 2 ACH for airtightness and you’re fitting MVHR then you can assume some additional heat requirements for compensating for poorer heat recovery and the input of cold(er) air from atmosphere through the delivery of fresh air to habitable spaces. Fitting a very good door between the house and the garage for draught-proofing will help a lot, as the last thing you want is cold air getting pulled / blown in from there. Do you have a target airtightness score? Cold air infiltration will be a massive factor when sizing heating, but most “heating engineers” (lol) won’t look further than the very basic stuff, let alone make adjustments for (actual) MVHR performance.

As said above, look for the fixings of the battens and there’s your fix point Shame these didn’t go in roof, but there’s still an opportunity to do that and lose the slates if you’ll accept that? Anchor is a butter that goes on crumpets, immediately prior to applying grated cheese and then grilling. @bisquits this type of thing goes on a lot here. lol.

As long as the driver isn’t sat on top of the lamp then you’re fine. In instances where there’s been insufficient height behind the ceiling those stirrups have gone in the scrap bin. Ditch them and carry on, just ensure the drivers are pushed aside. 👍

Yes, another day in the office for anyone good at their job. The biggest challenge is getting the wall mounted tap in situ, to be flush or sat on the tiles correctly, so choose your plumber well and it’ll be fine.

My go to ICF (and raft) installer bought his own props / staging etc as, as said, the costs are then reduced if you can buy these and just absorb the purchase cost over the volume of work they’ll lend themselves to. If you have that ethos then you can reduce your costs and the impact of hire etc to the client, making you more attractive / cost-effective. It also tells someone that this chap is so busy he has been able to warrant purchasing this stuff outright, and busy often means you’re good / reputable. Not always, before antibody says it, but the cost of moving and storing that stuff between projects defo makes it extremely uneconomical to own. Also, either not, or just minimally, advertising, speaks volumes (where both he and I are so busy we don’t really need to). Another big overhead that doesn’t need to be input in your overheads / profit / pricing to the client 👌

If tiling then yes, screws every 150/200mm minimum afaic.

You just need to remove some plasterboard and alter the hot and cold feeds so they come out inside the boxing in, as I’d not want to see them on the surface as that would look 💩. The waste pipe will have plenty of fall etc, so just put a 90° bend on it in the corner, as low as possible, and then clip a new run along the wall so it can come out under the same line as the taps. If you need to break some screed there to expose more pipe in the corner then that’ll be covered by the boxing in so is not a problem. You’ll need the bath in the room now with the legs set at the desired height, so you can see how and where the twos will be mounted, as a picture is much better than any idea. Would be a shame to do the prep and then the twos just look too close / far away / high / low etc. Are you employing a plumber for this?

Hi. Please post them here as there will be far more input 😊👍. My pm inbox is like Piccadilly Circus 🎪.

Full PP after 9m2 iirc.

This type of separation has been commonplace since the concept of a DPC/M came about. A nonsense statement afaic.

Yup. They do it as a knee-jerk iirc.