Nickfromwales

I've called off the hit

Cost impact for exploration? Or 6 and two 3’s?

So for thinner insulation, Aerogel is significantly better than XPS / Marmox etc?

Have you run this past ATAG’s tech support yet?

If you can afford it, then ask yourself the question, not us lot!!! If you want a cinema / TV room and you will use it, then I’d defo go for it without a second thought. Has the builder discussed tanking / waterproofing / any need for a sump pump+ pumped discharge? Ask all the questions before proceeding, so costs don’t spiral and you don’t end up with regrets.

I’ll have another look at space / options and reply a bit later 👍

If this was to be the 'ultimate spec' conversion, then between the 2 close-coupled tees would be another 2-port motorised valve that is "normally open". This would stay open until it was energised by the brown wire that provides signal to the radiator motorised valve. The worry would (could) be that, if there is this permanent bypass loop, when the rads are on that may allow the boiler to ignore some of the rads or decrease the flow to them more than you'd want. The second 2-port would allow the system to toggle between UFH only (with the valve open to allow the boiler to recirculate) and UFH + RADS (with the valve closed) to return this to the way it's currently plumbed). This sounds like overkill, but it's actually the correct way to set this up without a buffer or low loss header. Soooooooooo many plumbers just don't get it; that they set things up which appear to work "fine" on the day, week, month or year(s), but the setup is on borrowed time from day 1 as so many parts are functioning under duress.

@Burkle Quick swap and not too hard to do.

Oh, I forgot to say, don't forget to wear cheap disposable gloves.....and absolute must when using this stuff. I guess you bought the disposable "all or nothing" type canister lol.

..do what I've just done for a client with rising steel columns which are exposed externally and internally, which is to bond Marmox boards to them. Even if it just 10-15mm it'll kill the cold bridge pretty effectively. https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/marmox-multiboard-tile---shower-backer-board--choice-of-size-?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAtsa9BhAKEiwAUZAszX4ebPdNBF3SV58FmCOrszr1VvIk-Kl56JF44R-c_219F_0ONBT6ExoCmPkQAvD_BwE Fill any gaps with foam NOT mastic but these can be cut with a track saw etc very accurately.

For the benefit of new members, just giving this another bump.

Post a pic so we can make some suggestions. 👍

One x would have left that as questionable, but 3 x's made me feel special . I felt bad because I never got you a card, or flowers, but there's always next year.

Yup. The mention of weather comp for this is nonsense, and defo needs at least 100L buffer on the circuit of UFH, but prob better off with a TS (with an integral DHW coil) instead of an UVC, but that ship has probably sailed; retro-fit buffer will now be the robust option. Still amazes me how shit a selection of installers there still seems to be out there, as (most) boiler MI's dictate that the installer should surmise if the design is not within their recommended guidelines, and if not then they should "do something about it".... That's been completely ignored here afaic. Oil boiler direct to UFH = 💩

"What happens on the mile....stays on the mile"

I'm a married man, mate, I'll take whatever is on offer.

It's just maths, and not an issue with your currently installed equipment. The amount of water you are consuming, between each event of 'recovery', exceeds the capacity of the system that you have installed. Yes, fit a bigger system and the problem will go away. Simple maths but remember the "gotcha" which is that it is illegal to create a negative pressure on the incoming cold main supply. A prosecutable offence, no less.

Can you do the same with the cold main shut off, and the cold tap on the kitchen sink open wide, please. This is the path we've chosen......best to embrace our final destination......

If you are happy with caveats because you want a "thin" system, then just treat the floors like a very nice radiator. Simples. You'll get heat relatively quickly when you need it, but suffer a very big hysteresis; unless you can get the flow temp dialled in very well and address the under-over shoot with a bloody good (~0.1-0.2oC increment) thermostat.

vs dig the trench for a new main, pay for it, and find out it did the square root of fcuk all to improve the situation? A 300l accumulator doesn't take up a lot of space.... 🙏

AKA "Welsh modulation" lol It's a good boiler then, on paper, but I wonder how well it deals with particulate build-up if installed in a situation where its constantly low-flame and running a 'less-than-great' cycle pattern? Oil likes to burn hard and strong, for a decent burn cycle afaik.

Yup, that's the kiddy. That should make the (new / old whatever) boiler very happy and let it go on to live a full working life AND enjoy retirement

Ermmmm.....the installers knew this at the time I presume, and carried on anyways; knowing there were 5 actuators that needed to be connected (to a wiring centre that can take 5 Act's and 5 stat inputs per space). Buy a 5 zone wiring centre, or is that somehow too easy and they don't make one (which would be ridiculous). Last house I moved people in to had 19 loops over 8 zones. Shirley, this manufacturer does bigger wiring centres?!?

Is it an oil boiler that can modulate.............?

@Mattg4321 Are we talking here about being happy with the brief joyful 28lpm, or the crap flow rate after the EV has discharged? Leave the mains alone, and fit an accumulator, unless you can be 100% sure that there is a pot of gold to be found at the street that a new main supply will provide at the stopcock?