Nickfromwales

Monsieur ?

Me neither, I always take out the pressure gauge and fit a second bottle vent in the hole. Or extend a bit of push fit plastic pipe from the manifold to where you can access it without going full on Billy Elliot, with the gauge on the end of that, and a 1/4 turn tap to bleed off the rising pressure as the concrete cures.

I hardly ever pressure test tbh. The pipes (pert al pert) are pretty bombproof and you have to maliciously damage them to get one to leak. Been fitting UFH for a quarter century or more, never had an issue with getting pipe out of a box, on to a floor, and covered in the good stuff. MBC never bother either, iirc. It’s just bloody solid stuff and has an extraordinarily low failure rate (which is why it’s good to bury in the floor for the next 30+ years or more).

For eg Link We then bought 30mm oak stock and faced the 18mm stuff so that when installed it looked like 30mm thick oak sills were installed.

If using those, not a hardwood, then defo seal the underside / sides as well, if not better, than you seal the faces. If not these will absorb moisture from the cavities. +1 for better bits of wood (sorry!).

The tester is the manifold gauge

Yup. Ideally you should be opening a pipe to atmosphere immediately prior to the screed going down, as when you’ve got a gauge installed it will usually meet its maker when the pressure exceeds its max set point and the needle snaps off. If you need it all pressurised for the pour then you can just accept the cost of a replacement gauge if that happens, a tenner or two at most.

Has it been wet or dry tested? Have the loops been purged through, eg so all the air got blasted out? You’ve not answered about the cap on the bottle vent.

Nobody will ever know Let's keep it between you and I.

We shall put that typo down to nerves

Let's be sure there's an actual problem first The biggest "oops" here will be a wet test done and then somebody simply forgot to pinch off the cap on the AAV. The air in the loops then rises to the manifold rail and ejects itself, resulting in a drop in pressure. If you had a significant leak there would be zero pressure on the gauge right now.

That's the best reply any stranger can offer to a random guy on the internet at this time of night. Is the cap on the automatic air vent open or closed? It's the thing that looks like the air cap on a car tyre. Can we have a better pic of the whole manifold?

Have you closed the cap on the automatic air vent?

Split the shower cold and basin if you're going to split, as the WC will still be filling when you use the basin tap to wash your mits

Is this just to run machinery? Would it not be simpler and cheaper to swap out to single phase stuff and be grid tied?

It will work, and is the go-to solution Compression is the only way to join plastic to these 'fancy' waste / trap kits tbh. This is what I do, and the compression stuff just never leaks or fails as long as you don't use any silicone / lube etc on the joint. It is a must to put these on 'dry' and only tighten to a bit past hand-tight, then jobs a good 'un.

The bastards are using drones to survey sites to see what’s ’available’, it then gets added to their shopping lists and picked off to suit demand. Hire one for the immediate, but even then you need to make sure you aren’t responsible for replacing it if it stolen from your site whilst on hire!!

Combination overflow / filler, and wall mounted taps vs "bath taps", same as I have as I hate bath clutter. Washy crap in wall-hung corner baskets and deck of bath free from projecting toe-stubbers.

But the white does utterly transform the house!

Has nobody seen iRobot? Stop with this voodoo before the machines rise against humanity and we all become slaves! probably.

Why the joist, and not just a batten on the blocks, levelled accordingly, to save space?

I find that using compression for these things offers a far better opportunity for removing / servicing these things downstream, so no probs there at all. Happy days.

Defo stick with close-coupled. The frame will need boxing and tiling and will eat into the room for very little gain, prob be a bit uglier tbh.

Compact, short projection, space-saving, are all the common names for these things. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Affine-Bathroom-Toilet-Coupled-Cistern/dp/B07DTJS4SD?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A1UUGTWDE5YX23&gQT=1

My apologies, is the wall behind the WC a breeze block one and not a stud wall?