Nickfromwales

Didn’t know this until a previous job, but you can buy another receiver and put it into ‘slave’ mode so it acts as a repeater. Just needs AC power 24/7 but it can be fed from any circuit anywhere, as it just needs to be ‘alive’ to work the lights. Can't recall what they refer to it as, but the tech support for Qtc is pretty good.

1000%. @saveasteading, just renew the cable so the light has a permanent live feed and go to Quinetic. Just so quick and simple, and you can add switches in seconds anywhere you want them. They are really effective, but the question would be what the distance from the light to the indoor switch is, as you’ve got options to just put an IP project box next to the floodlight and the switches talk to that there, vs trying to get a bulky Qtc switch into the box box you have in the wall. They’re a bloody tight squeeze, did this in my daughters bedroom and works a treat; switch by the door, and desk, and bedside 👍. All done in an hour start to finish.

Nope. I think the OP got shafted so is trying to navigate a way through with a mixture of manufacturers. Hep2o all the way for me.

They’re the best thing you’ll have bought. I’ve done loads of MVHR installs with these and every client has reported how quiet the system is, eg particularly at night and they’re trying to get their heads down. Helps a lot with times of boost too, when audibility otherwise becomes notable.

Wedi / Jackoboard etc comes in various thickness, so just max out to suit. TBH once you’ve thermally broken the floor, adding another 20mm or so won’t make a huge difference, but if you’re happy to dig it out further then more is better obvs. Just don’t allow the tile adhesive to come through at gaps, eg where the boards butt up to each other and around the edge, use CT1 to fill the gaps during laying so that you don’t get the cold bridge from adhesive.

Just use a bit of copper to divorce them. Simples!

👍

Not quite You leave them do the grant job, and then turn DHW off, and heat vis the immersion. The HP will possibly want to do a legionella purge, weekly iirc, but the temp being above that means the HP should ignore it. May need to be programmed to do that but easy enough to achieve. I should have been clearer, sorry, the UVC would always be connected to the HP for the grant. My point was, you can still just use electricity. It would be good to see if your installer will upsize the cylinder slightly, as then you are guaranteed to go the whole day without needing to top it up, after a midnight > 4-5am recharge. You'd still need the UG pipe but it would be largely redundant, and you wouldn't be paying for those losses 24/7/365.

👆👌. It’s just some wood etc, time to decide! 2 layers of 22mm caber glued and screwed together may beef it up, just stagger the joints. In case you’re curious, zero joins with concrete 😜.

Fit the UVC in the house, remove and reinstate when (if) you rebuild. £1500 or so isn’t huge and the cost of the pipework and running costs of the UG multi core pipework will be 4x that.

I saw it being used on a previous project where the client had a semi subterranean basement, and this was dropped down around (outside) the uninsulated concrete, filling the 300mm gap after the shuttering was withdrawn. Defo a simple solution in a difficult situation, but not the cheapest if you have an opportunity to use something else.

You cannot integrate via MVHR, they appear to be for duct systems because they require ducts to get the air from the room, to the fan coil, and back to the room again (after being tempered). Ducts need to be insulated well if cooling is required. Fan coils can heat, so yes they could replace FF UFH, but you accept maintenance, higher rates of airflow, and some associated nuisance audibility vs the silence and zero maintenance of UFH. Typically a fan coil would be mounted centrally in the FF open landing etc and just blast away the stagnant unwanted heat from that area, vs ducting to each room. Fan coil or rad, you'll need a drain for condensation.

Fraud!! lol.

Can't the ASHP and plant go into the outhouse, ASHP to the rear/side elevations for convenience, so you have the shortest umbilical possible? For the annex, defo a stand alone ASHP there and a simple UVC for DHW, in isolation, and job done. You're adding a huge run there for UG pipework, which if the DHW HRC is in there too will be recirculating at 60oC+! This is less than great if it's just lower grade heat or a very short run, but at the temps and losses you'll have I think it's one to avoid. I'd seriously look at having the UVC's in the respective spaces that they'll service, and even look at oversizing them so they can be heated via off peak electricity directly via the immersions, as that will massively reduce the labour on the heat pump(s) and the losses from the HRC etc. With modern insulated UVC's and their very low standing losses, I'd go for DHW from electricity, and local ASHP's for space heating, and drop the HRC and UG pipework to the very minimum requirement.

If it's for gym equipment then I'd put 25mm of XPS insulation down, a DPM, and then order a concrete truck to fill you up and have a solid floor. You can put those interlocking floor mats down to give a bit more 'warmth' underfoot and to create a finished floor. I'd avoid doing this in timber as if you drop a weight it'll defo just bash a hole in the chipboard flooring.

Chin up fella! Peaks n troughs etc

Hindsight is a wonderful thing....... That's not a terrible price btw, if it was a great job obvs!

A man of few words lol. 😂

It’s perfectly doable, but the time investment up front needs to be you researching all local builders to see who’s good / bad / ugly (aka expensive) and doing your own due diligence on them. Go to see jobs, insist on speaking to previous clients etc etc. Online reviews mean very little as most can pay to have bad reviews removed. If you’re lazy here, expect things to go less than great, however if you invest well now it should be reasonably plain sailing. Ask that they quote comprehensively with a full breakdown of each element, and for a payment schedule. As about building control signing off at certain stages, and the payments being made immediately after you have evidence that these goals have been met. The only person to cover your arse here, is you.

Is the UH8 mounted quite low? I would first try extending the wires and mounting it as high up as is possible.

Over timber on this job but same principal. Then cover the rest of the floor so it looks like this. Then when tiled… Bingo. This had electric UFH too, so you can fit that if you want some additional comfort but you shouldn’t really use that for ‘central heating’ of the room (but you can).

You only really need a minimal thermal break here, so just use a Wedi wet room former here and kill all the birds with one stone. Excavate the whole area, enough to get 20mm Wedi insulation board down plus your tiles and adhesive, and set the Wedi former the same level as that, and then tile across the lot. Make up the deficit at the tray area with layers of 6mm or 10mm Wedi board as required, to get the former at the right height.

Yup. In a room that small you want it to be whisper quiet, so avoid the cheaper units imo.

That mostly refers to “whilst the works are being undertaken” methinks. Poor workmanship is one for small claims here, but too much ambiguity over who did what / when did this start going wrong etc. Bottom line is, OSO should have done a report first to show deflection, then put in a request for the client to get a qualified carpenter in to undertake the work in anticipation, then they come and fit the cylinder. They (expletive deleted)ed up massively here, so it is true that they should offer to correct the whole problem, as a gesture of goodwill. Let’s see what they say / offer in compensation etc.

Would that not fall between the original installer of the since removed smaller UVC, and OSO, and require an interesting ‘debate’ about who caused what damage / deflection and when……. A hiding to nothing imho.