Nickfromwales

CVC (Oxford) sell 180mm EPS insulated duct and fittings, and that's what I would use to go through the cold aspect of the wall. Single wall PVC is not great for this tbh, and I would avoid having anything other than the insulated (insulation) type duct from atmosphere all the way to the MVHR unit. The only use of steel here was to connect/adapt for the metal box attenuators (silencers), the rest was "foam" insulation ductwork. Is your unit in the heated / airtight envelope, or in a cold space?

#captainabruptinthehouse Relax, time for a spa day?

Assuming that’s a corridor that comes past the room next door, not so easy to do? Just depends on how much of the adjoining room you have to give up to allow the dog-leg required at the end of the corridor. Would require an L shaped corridor to get a full door.

…… but technically not actually UG then and should revert back to domestic / above ground. Bottom line is, it should be buried, or boxed in, and out of sight / UV, which is why you typically revert back to standard pipe as soon as you are out of the ground. Stuff is still bombproof afaic, if fitted by someone who is competent / conscientious in their work. I’ve installed miles of this stuff in domestic and commercial settings, just trying to think of a time where we had an issue with a seal, and tbh I can only recollect the seal ever pushing out completely because it was a Friday fitting; 2 mins to lube and push back in, and on to the next. Silicone gel / spray lube is a must, plus chamfering the ends of cut pipe, then make sure the pipe runs are clipped properly, with particular attention paid where there are changes in direction (where the flush water etc drops one or two storeys and then turns horizontal, you need to control that ‘thump’), so observe that and you really will struggle to fail here. Loads on here have DIY’d their foul and waste who have never done it before, just relying on lots of advice taken from here / other resources, and away to go.

I mean, if someone pays my company to do a job, and I take a profit and hand the change to a 3rd party contractor, I am still 100% responsible for that job being kosher. OSO is the company that is responsible here, as they took the clients money. What they did with that money afterwards is neither here nor there as far as a warranty claim is concerned.

Yup. Defo do not push your luck here, as the anode stops the cylinder corroding at the unions. Ariston used to sell a lot of glass lined UVC’s back in the day, and I went to a lot which looked A1 but we’re leaking into the insulation jacket via what you couldn’t see. They rot from the inside out btw.

Do you have an MVHR extract in the plant room? I always fit one for customers where there’s a lot of kit in the same space, and that goes towards efficiency during the winter. Not so sure I’d be punching holes in an airtight PH spec build as that will be pulling a lot of air from the room and dumping it to atmosphere, which needs to get back into the building by knocking your MVHR airflow / balance way off. You’d need a small “split” AC system, which seems massively overkill here.

That’s quite shit. Didn’t spot this reply, so ignore my last. The bottom line is, you paid OSO so your contract/agreement is with them. They decided to feck you over by giving the job to a 3rd party contractor so they need to fix this. Reply to apologise regarding the timeframe, and say “you’ve got 7 days to respond with a plan to rectify before I look to seek losses via the courts. There’s your timeframe, you bellends”. Shocking way to treat you to be honest, and you’d probably have been better off using a good local plumber and probably would have been cheaper and better. Ffs.

lol. Yea, done projects near Melton Mobrey and Lutterworth, one coming up possibly in Northants, so I do get around 🙃. See if OSO offer to put it all right, and explore options to make the plinth big/strong enough to take that plus an acc’r . If you get proper stuck let me know.

@Nickfromwales may be able to help. He fits Telford cylinders. AAV on the flow and another on the return, no issues from any I’ve fitted.

Wrong thread?

Not ideal but entirely doable. Just needs the chase to be deep / wide enough for it to be taped with pvc electrical tape and then the whole thing mummified in expanding foam to insulate it. Soak the chase with water and allow to partially dry before applying the foam, as the moisture will help it cure a lot better with less honeycomb / voids.

Bronze too by the look of it.

"Tot ziens" Ventilation Land lol. God bless Google . I think it would be fair to show your appreciation by getting the next round in......only 21k+ members; probably arranging this to happen in a Weatherspoon's would be best for you

I always suggest to (tell) my customers to sit down with the builder, before they do anything, and set out your station. The builder will otherwise decide, if you appear to be a walk-over on day 1. They will assume fast=good; you can say "reasonable pace with a better eye of the quality and finish may cost another 5-10%, but I ACCEPT". Tell them that you're going to ask to have a framing level placed on the walls after they've been laid on, so they know that shite won't fly. Assume they'll do a good job, and you'll quickly find why folk say "assumption is the mother of all feck ups". Speak to the builders, they're human at the end of the day . Let the builder know that you're approachable, eg if more work needs doing to deliver a better end result. Employing a general builder, because their quote was the favoured one, isn't any means of a measure or guarantee as to what will be delivered, this needs to be managed (expectations from both sides) by you; if you wish to stand any chance of getting what you expect (want), then say this at the outset, not complain afterwards if you didn't ask what the quality / workmanship would be like. FYI, cement and skim are finishers not fillers, so a wall that's seriously out of plumb should probably have been dot & dabbed vs scratched and skimmed.

Use it well, for we are the chosen messengers.

@GNB88, We could be neighbours, if England wasn't in the bloody way...... Welcome aboard.

Most modern UVC's have very low standing losses, and we are advocates here of a bit of oversizing so the stored temp can be around 50-550C, further reducing losses. Good advice if it's a thermal store for DHW though.

One that has a whacking great duct that has to go to atmosphere? 180mm on the one in my sons attic room, but it's so cold up there atm that you could keep meat; whilst the rest of us squelch about in the ridiculous heatwave..... No wonder my other kids go and kip up there when the sun finally shows its face.

If the house is open plan and 400m2 or above, I will retract 50% of that

Oh, lordy! Where have you been getting advice from? So..... IF your MVHR fan stopped spinning, there would still be a near-uninterrupted path for airflow through the MVHR system so that would allow the 'draw'. The MVHR doesn't close any valves or flaps, it's just a fan or pair of fans that are spinning or not. "Open a window or two for airflow"?, "No". A HETAS design would require an uninterruptable supply of airflow, not simply rely on you deciding to monitor this by opening things or closing them, that would never pass any regs. What you would need is as above, a direct to air WBS that isn't reliant on the room not being sealed. In a leaky house, one that's not airtight, and not the house you are making? This caveat allows for a consideration that adventitious air for combustion would find its way into the room through all the gaps, nooks, and crannies (natural infiltration); if you have MVHR, then the house won't have any.....so can't be applied here. Next, simply DO NOT DO THIS!! If you have an airtight house with MVHR then the heat output would be way above what the room it is in could ever dissipate, you'll just roast the room and have to leave it. A WBS has a place in a draughty bag-o-shit house, but not in any modern build with great insulation, airtightness, and MVHR (with subsequent minimal heat input requirement). This will become an expensive ornament.

Yup. You can use a grout film remover, or patio cleaning 'acid' and scrub it with a stiff broom. Porcelain shouldn't need much in the way of sealing, but the installer should have cleaned this all up properly instead of leaving it to cure in sunlight. His problem, not yours btw, so tell him to get scrubbing!

The radial stuff comes pre-insulated if you want, so no other issue than the slight uplift in cost.

Yup, kinda. Refrigerant gas duct cooler, with external HP, which can heat and cool. If you want cool, it's gotta come from somewhere, so I am more intensively exploring options for these situations atm. There is also the Brink Air Comfort (AHU) but if you don't have a heat pump you're options are very much limited, hence what I showed you in that image. FWIW, I think if you want all electric space heating and cooling, with MVHR, then you'd be far better off going multiple A2A AC throughout. Space heating via electric radiators is pretty poor tbh, unless it's a PH+ spec build, and I think you'll come to regret that imho. I assume there won't be UFH then, so nowhere to implement slab cooling? This is the better option and far less aggressive means of heating and cooling, and imo the most economical operating costs/least impact the occupants.