Nickfromwales

Get some 60 grit sandpaper and sand the pipe so the rubber seal can grab onto a roughened surface vs the shiny surface it's currently trying (poorly) to cling on to. Sand around the diameter, not up and down the pipe, as you want 'rings' of scratches so the seal can bite into them. Oh, and tighten up the two John Guest Speedfit fittings in the background. Righty-tighty, as they're both nearly fully undone! JG stuff sucks badly.

I used Stairpartsdirect for a project in Leicester, for a very nice oak staircase for a clients build, and they provided a great turnkey service including all the glass procured local to the job and delivered to site. If you give them some dimensions etc they will do a 3D render for you. Other stair providers are available...

It's not bonkers at all afaic. 12's average £300? It could be a big house, I've done houses where we've have 31 ports of UFH. I agree it may be beneficial to have the property split over 2 manifolds to make sure the max runs are <100m, but until we see plans and floor layouts, we cannot possibly comment. So @mikeysoft, me old china mug, lets have some more info please, and possibly some floor plans, then we can stay up and fight.

A bodge with a very short life expectancy at that! Terrible advice. @nmh You could just bond some offset PVC trim LINK to the flat of that aluminium profile to act like a skirt, and that will stop the leak. Use clear CT1 and take a load of pics to show prospective new roofer(s). Wait until dry weather and get it sorted properly. Looks like a mash of profiles and thicknesses, where the wood should have not been recessed in under the aluminium, as that has made for a very difficult detail for the roofer (on his mothers side) to get right....

These sound like a huge step towards managing the trapped humidity, but also via extraction fans where you know you're getting unwanted levels. The rust on that steel is zero problem, seen way worse than that and they've been in for a half century! Scrub, apply the rust convertor, and live a long happy life.

You defo need the stairs in first, so it can be mechanically fixed to the fabric of the property. You ask the carpenter to space the stringers to the required spec, so the plasterboard doesn't then accidentally finish flush with the stringers. Are these block walls?

You may not need a pump, and I’d avoid installing one with every fibre of my being. A lot of the plumbing would need to be altered to suit, needs a lot of planning / survey etc, and I’d need to know the static and dynamic pressure and flow rates you have there now before advising you on what kit to fit. Lots of people have these fitted and don’t get an improvement, because they’ve overlooked vital stages etc.

Cold beer and lay-ins

You're steaming on fella! Great progress.

A standard pine architrave will allow you to butt the PB to it and skim, with a bit of architrave still showing, just ask the plasterer to thin it out there. Yes it does, you move the hinge forward and re-drill the screw holes, just add glue and some pins where the hinges will be to stop the new bit of wood parting ways with the original. Sand off the paint when you go to glue wood to wood, or it'll just pop off and take the last layer of paint with it.

Were they paid for a full, brand new install, or did they reuse some/all of the existing stuff? If you know 100% that they knowingly used damaged pipes then call them back to cut the sections out and renew them. Can't say that would be the cause of noisy rads, but I also can't say it's not.....probably more down to balancing tbh.

FF to round 1:45 mins in, and ignore the car chat! These guys do a detailed vid of installing the EDPM roof here and this is a good watch, shows sequence from start to finish.

You weren't swearing hard enough, obvs.... 🙄

Defo not the norm, and usually on a kicker course of engineering bricks and Marmox breakers. I noted the low noggins, to catch the tail end of the plasterboards I assume(d), so thought they had this in check somehow.....we gotta pick our battles

Yes, that fitting will do as long as stated the pan connector will go into it and be low enough to get onto the pan. Or, you just put that piece of pipe back in, cut it to leave 60mm of stub, and then glue on the one I posted. re 1300mm, see me last

The invert, not length. An AAV is there to alleviate the vacuum caused by flushed water etc dropping vertically (more than 1300mm), cancelling out the air being sucked in behind it. The invert is the lowest point of the outlet of the WC pan, to the lowest point of the pipe it meets, when returning to a horizontal run.

One of the boss outlets is open, the other 2 are ‘blind’ so you need to drill the second one out

@Susie You need one of these as low on the 110mm pipe as is possible. And then use the solvent inserts to 50mm pvc pipe, not the rubber bungs that are on the ‘elephants foot’ you posted an image of. Then take a pair of 50mm pipes, one to shower one to where sink waste is, reducing at each item; you’ll want a 50mm bend facing up out of the floor, and then when above ground you reduce to 40mm, then the 90° bend before the basin trap would be a 40mm bend with a 40/32 reducer in to outlet, then a short piece of 32mm between the bend and the sink trap. Depending on what shower trap you have, you can either go straight on to their supplied adaptor, or reduce to 40mm immediate before the trap. No need for air admittance or ‘Durgo’ valves etc as the inverted are all <1300mm. 👍.

@Stu789 Air-Haus.co.uk have introductory prices on MVHR etc atm, but going up in a few weeks iirc.

Have you investigated resilient bars? Pay particular attention to ceiling voids; in a previous clients build we doubled up the acoustic insulation in the ceiling voids, and made a 200mm wide acoustic wall to prevent sound going ‘up and over’ as this was a music/piano room. So fully filled the stud walls, doubles up in the ceiling, and we could have gone with acoustic PB but the builder had already ordered regular boards without consulting me as the clients consultant (before he ran off, and we adopted the completion of the build!), and no complaints so far. Resilient bars on walls can also help with acoustics, but I’d defo use 15mm sound block/acoustic plasterboard induce the TV room, on the ceiling there, and also on the other sides of those stud walls.

Ah, sorry, I thought they were walk in wardrobes I can see the grey lines denote the walls now, “D’oh!” Good to hear attic is ‘within’ which saves a lot of insulating/faffing about. It’s not a huge property so the unit being central isn’t really necessary, just ‘nice’. Make sure you’ve allowed for box attenuators (silencers) on the supply and extract to manage audibility; these make a good job great. Assuming you’re going out the roof for fresh and exhaust, so just make sure both roof terminals are on the same elevation. If you go for the WiFi connectivity option(s), (done this previously with Brink), then you can boost from home assistant, eg just as you start cooking you can tell Alexa to boost to manage cooking smells etc.

Prob best to add, that if you’re relying on the studs to hang this item off, then also make sure to add a few more screws (construction type) to make sure the bit of stud you attach to is going nowhere too

That’s odd, as I’d defo say the dining area was a living space so would need fresh. Would be put in a design to pass b-regs afaic.

Extracts in the wardrobes would prob need dialling down, to stop the air in the room just going a-b and missing the area at the door, and the fresh in the pantry may push the smells from stored food items into the open living area. Consider a transfer grille in the wall between the plant/utility and pantry, possibly, with the support and extract valves fitted as far apart as possible vs back to back as shown (if you go for the transfer grille). Is that attic space outside the heated and airtight envelope, or do you have a full warm roof?

Should be fine tbh..........they've retained a full 20mm of the joist for structural integrity